Kambo 9 Posted December 8, 2017 Been doing a bit lately but not really much progress on the car On a plus note I've managed to source some 1.9 hubs One thing (of two) that was bugging me was engine positioning, why I never bought this a long time ago I will never know but engine leveller purchased The other thing that was bugging me (big bug!) was the floor in the garage, its on a two step level not loads but enough to cause aggro... Getting the engine crane moving took some effort but it wasn't ideal and that was with just the engine only no box, so large sheet of ply and some backing underneath So cue Kam madness I remembered I bought a winch a few years back but it stayed in the box Had some cement lying around I think you can tell where I'm going with this Instructions say only two M8 bolts needed in the ground, umm ok Gearbox on and winch seems to be working a ok hooked up to the crane Engine mount was torn off but still had the bottom part of the bush in place, read it can be a pain but drift punch on and started turning Molegrips to finish off I LOVE my engine leveller Managed to get engine in close position, and marked out bodywork mods needed Kambelt cover and side panel clash Alternator clash Will blow the dust off the grinder and sort this Once engine position is found subframe will then go back in for some more grinder time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allye 530 3 Cars Posted December 8, 2017 You’ll do yourself a hell of a lot of favours and increased reliability if you bin that clutch set up and make a proper hydraulic pedal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted December 8, 2017 yep, and using a D9 type slave as they have a bleed nipple too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 9, 2017 9 hours ago, allye said: You’ll do yourself a hell of a lot of favours and increased reliability if you bin that clutch set up and make a proper hydraulic pedal. 9 hours ago, welshpug said: yep, and using a D9 type slave as they have a bleed nipple too. Currently on the lookout for a complete D9 setup but if nothing materialises I’ll just run the cable for now My mini is running an AP 14mm master and OEM Honda slave with a stage 4 clutch (complete overkill) it’s a super heavy pedal but I’m used to it but although it’s pretty much an on/off switch it is still smooth Does anyone know what size bore the D9 master and slave are or even the 206 one which seems to be popular as well as I’ve tried a couple of different masters on the mini so I know how little a difference in bore size massively affects the pedal feel (this is just a road car) Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allye 530 3 Cars Posted December 9, 2017 Sounds like youve seen the couple with 206 GTI master cylinders used including mine. A bolt in setup won’t become available you’ll have to make one. Can guarantee that cable setup will feel horrible through the peddle! If I can make a hydraulic clutch anyone can! I used a base model servo for more room too, no noticeable difference with GTI6 brakes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 10, 2017 10 hours ago, allye said: Sounds like youve seen the couple with 206 GTI master cylinders used including mine. A bolt in setup won’t become available you’ll have to make one. Can guarantee that cable setup will feel horrible through the peddle! If I can make a hydraulic clutch anyone can! I used a base model servo for more room too, no noticeable difference with GTI6 brakes. I’m sure I’ve subscribed to yours, with the photobucket malarkey going on I’ve been trying to save as many pics as I can from different build diaries but they are all muddled up so not sure who’s is who Are people putting the clutch master in place of the cable mounting point under the servo bracket using a clevis pin to the pedal? I can’t find any actual pictures (or haven’t come across any yet) but I’m guessing that’s what happening? Was thinking about getting the 406 pedal assembly and welding in a blanking plate in original hole and mounting this new shape assembly in there instead, seems a faff though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted December 10, 2017 the 406 stuff isnt particularly suitble but there are a few off other vehicles that are a lot more compact and easier to fix in place, 206 being one, xsara picasso being another (may even be the same part) remove the plastic piece and tap the rod to M6, i dont recall if george and Ali used a spherical rod end or a clevis, I'm going to use a rod end on a 106 Im assisting with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 10, 2017 2 hours ago, welshpug said: the 406 stuff isnt particularly suitble but there are a few off other vehicles that are a lot more compact and easier to fix in place, 206 being one, xsara picasso being another (may even be the same part) remove the plastic piece and tap the rod to M6, i dont recall if george and Ali used a spherical rod end or a clevis, I'm going to use a rod end on a 106 Im assisting with. Ok cool I’ll have a looksy WP - do you actually get to work on your own cars as all you seem to do is to help others build there’s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allye 530 3 Cars Posted December 10, 2017 (edited) Just tried linking my photo bucket, idiot! PM me your email and I’ll send my photos over. Edited December 10, 2017 by allye Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted December 10, 2017 you can still link to your photobucket, just can't post them straight here without paying the ransom. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 10, 2017 I've got the Chrome extension so can see some pics, but not always but better than nothing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cybernck 402 1 Cars Posted December 10, 2017 I can sort out broken Photobucket links, providing I get pics with their filenames intact. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 11, 2017 Had a small amount of time earlier so figured I'd try and get something done but the thought of going into a cold garage with cold tools wasn't exactly top of my list Took off the alternator and had my 1.9 one close by, interesting to see it was a bit smaller and lighter, not sure what amp difference it is, not that I'll need the extra for my cruise control etc Using the 1.9 one would mean a lot less work on the bodywork but a lot more work on making it fit...hmmm Trimmed up some bodywork to clear the cam cover and dropped the lump in Looks like it needs to be spaced up on the right hand mount Got some room at the front, I say some... I don't really know peugeot mounts but is this normal for the top part of the mount to be squashed down, I mean really squashed down or is this a cheap mount Will chop out more of the cam side bodywork and have another looksie at the alternator Nearly ready for the MOT Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted December 11, 2017 that top mount looks particularly tired! dont forget the buffers, they go in after the main bush but before the arm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) 41 minutes ago, welshpug said: that top mount looks particularly tired! Brand new from fleabay Maybe the engine doesn't need spacing, just needs a proper one Edited December 11, 2017 by Kambo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allye 530 3 Cars Posted December 12, 2017 I’d get those buffers in at WP suggests, if you are mocking things up, a couple mm change at the top mount could he 20mm down the bottom! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 12, 2017 12 minutes ago, allye said: I’d get those buffers in at WP suggests, if you are mocking things up, a couple mm change at the top mount could he 20mm down the bottom! Yeah just mock up for now, engine will be back out, also there is no clutch on, box is just bolted up Hmmm maybe the new mount isn't goofed its just carrying all the weight on that side (and heavier weight) as the buffers ain't in as mentioned? I'll pop them on first to see if the buffers take any stress off the mount arm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 12, 2017 Put the buffers back on the right hand mount but still the same - the top part of the bush caves in right down to the bottom where the notches are (for when removing them) So looks like you get what you pay for, ordered some Baker ones, will bin this once they arrive. I don't mind the extra vibrations through the shell, used to it with the mini as it is running uprated mounts which have a shure rating of something like 75, they are harsh but the engine don't move for nothing and with 5mm clearance everywhere you need it steady so I'm guessing with the tight clearances with this swap it'll be the same In the meantime my rubber mallet snapped Had it for years, quite sad but as you know things happen for a reason... Then cue Kam madness Took off around 30mm, roughly the same the bush mount was caving in... Fits nice Engine sits more level now but will wait till new mounts are here, this will do in the meantime to check subframe clearance Clearance seems fine underneath to steering rack and manifold So looks like I will use this subframe a template and start cutting up my one and reinforce it All good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 14, 2017 Didn't have much time today so not much done, pulled off purchased subframe and got ready to cut mine up Could do with a little clean Started on making the cuts Do feel a bit lucky having a template subframe to work off, sod doing trial and error with this on a jack on my back! In the meantime I got the Baker mounts come through, also picked up a 406 rear mount which I'll make a bracket for on my subframe All good so far Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie green 110 Posted December 15, 2017 Nice project but will be worth it in the end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 19, 2017 Baker mounts arrived and are in Just need to double check as I don't know Pug mounts or can remember how my XU RH engine mount looked but I'm only getting around a couple of threads showing if that on that RH engine mount, I'm guessing its meant to have the same amount of threads showing as a XU Mount? How much thread do you need showing on the bottom part of the RH engine mount? I've knocked it round and seems tight but didn't want to push it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 20, 2017 Still chomping more off the subframe Put the subframe on the old one as a guide to make my rear lower mount holder, with all the bits falling off the subframe I figured why not make it out of what came off? Same material, same thickness But decided to pick up a sheet of some 5mm stainless instead, thicker than whats on there already Ok I've knocked round the RH mount flat to the chassis, dropped engine in and still the same, not enough thread really, I'm guessing the Baker ones do not compress even a little I've tried mounts where the rubber collapses and mounts that don't budge at all now Either way I've taken out Paul's (thirdtimelucky) spacer under the mount, I want these mounts in and don't mind the extra vibes through the office chair, got it with my current car so no biggie. Enough thread showing now I know the bottom end will be hanging low but again I've got this already so not concerned, just need to get rid of these lowered springs... Engine sits much better now, tight but getting there. Still want to angle the front down a little more Need to shave a little more off the subframe to get the tilt angle I want, rear diff is close to the steering gaitor but should be fine. I'll worry about the Kambelt cover to brake res later With the engine lowered a bit and the tilt allowing the V to be well as V as possible I'll need to shave a little off the top of the wishbone mount, not the section of the bolt but the gubbins above it, driveshaft cup will slide in nicely then, only a few mm needed away Front slam panel obviously needs cutting but trying to limit how much is taken off, seems to differ with all the V6 builds anyway Slowly slowy does it 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted December 20, 2017 you definitely need the spacer or the cv joints hit the subframe, i'd try a sleeve nut and counterbore the top arm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted December 20, 2017 12 hours ago, welshpug said: you definitely need the spacer or the cv joints hit the subframe, i'd try a sleeve nut and counterbore the top arm. Without the spacer it only needs a few mm taken off just above the wishbone mount, 4-5mm, but can take off a little more to also clear the CV tie wrap head Or I could space the subframe down a little? Do these engines (in a 406) sit at a true V angle? A lot of the 205 swaps all seem to differ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kambo 9 Posted April 22, 2018 Bit of a change here, I've been spending a couple of hours here and there and slowly made the subframe up, all fits and clears and next to nothing needs to be cut from the front slam panel (my aim) However it turns out we are having a second child so plans are on hold now I've taken the V6 out and put the 1.9 back in, won't get much time (if any) but will aim to get this 1.9 working and on the road, it will see tarmac sooner this way V6 is packed up and stored away, will come back to it another time when funds/time allow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
