[ Trackday Prep ] Prism7guy's 306 Gti6 track car.

[Prism7guy 5]

I thought I'd do a copy of my track car project thread on here seeing as there are other 306 projects and some may find it interesting. I've noticed a few familiar usernames from the gti6 forum on here too.

Anyway, to cut a long story short I started doing trackdays in my diablo red 306 gti6 years ago and got the bug, but the car at the time was my daily and far too nice to turn into a track car, so after a bit of saving up and picking up bargain parts I found a local-ish gti6 with engine problems. It was a pretty good price for the car at the time and if I hadn't bought it it would have been destined to being broken for spares.

Here it is when I got it home.

IMG_0322 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Not my cup of tea but it was affordable and just what I wanted as a base to start a project.

It wasn't long before I had stripped and sold pretty much everything I could that would be of no use to me, the car then effectively owed me nothing.

It soon looked like this:

IMG_0523 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0498 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I took the engine in to work and stripped it down, I bought the car knowing the head gasket had gone but upon looking at the stripped engine I decided that rebuilding that engine wouldn't have been cost effective, the block needed boring out, the head was as good as scrap and everything else had seen better days.

IMG_0668 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

In the end I bought a second hand engine from someone in Southampton for £300.

With the old engine out I tackled the engine bay rust and gave it a fresh coat of paint.

IMG_0708 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0839 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0846 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0853 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I also treated the wheel areas to some stone chip.

IMG_0840 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

With the front end sorted I could then start to fit the new bits to it, one of the first things to get replaced was the front dampers, I fitted some KW V2's that I'd purchased in preparation for getting a track car.

IMG_0369 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Wiring for moving the battery to under the boot floor, and brake line for fresh lines all round and removing the ABS.

IMG_0847 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Roller bearing wishbone bushes.

IMG_0848 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Smaller/lighter alternator.

IMG_0837 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Had some brackets laser cut to hold the power steering pump and allow for manual tensioning of the aux belt.

IMG_0884 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0885 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Fitted a billet flywheel to the replacement engine.

IMG_0935 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0929 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Engine and gearbox back in.

IMG_0937 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Decided to paint the block fluorescent orange in a moment of madness.

IMG_0943 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Fitted a lower strut brace to go with the seam welded subframe.

IMG_0842 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Front end starting to come together now.

IMG_0960 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

More new parts arrived.

IMG_0850 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0818 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0869 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I'd had problems with overheating brakes in the past so I decided to fit some ducting directing cold air from the foglight holes in the bumper to the back face of the discs.

IMG_0965 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0967 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_0968 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0970 by Steve Count, on Flickr

New nissens radiator and two 13 row oil coolers fitted.

IMG_0985 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0993 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The new battery mounted under the boot floor.

IMG_0988 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

After a mis-hap on a test drive involving losing a lot of petrol I decided to fit a fire extinguisher. Also visible is the bias valve and braided lines which are short lengths just to get under the car where they mate with the copper-nickel lines running to the rear brakes.

IMG_1004 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I think around this time I took the car to the nurburgring, and in classic Peugeot style it broke down, several times.

254446_10150275412767154_6080765_n by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

First time the clutch cable auto adjuster gave up the ghost whilst stuck in Belgian motorway traffic. Face palm moment! I had a spare though so got that fitted in record time but ended up soaking from laying on the wet road.

Next problem:

247911_10150275425287154_6536589_n by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Fortunately it was a relatively easy fix, the crank position sensor had gone, but finding one of them on a German bank holiday weekend and the ferry booked for early the next morning added a bit of stress. Fortunately a mate in Luxembourg had one on his brothers car that I could borrow to get me home with, so a late night trek over to his to get the sensor, then the drive back to the campsite to fit the sensor. I think it was about 2am by the time I'd fitted the replacement, started the car and it ran so I got a couple of hours sleep before the drive home.

Just to prove it did get a lap in whilst over there:

248290_10150223868952472_7012345_n by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Once back it was time to progress a bit more. I got Phillipm/Rippthrough to make a cage for me. My order started out as a simple 6 point cage but he could sell sand to an arab and before I knew it I'd agreed to all sorts of extras. A few weeks later I got the car back.

IMG_1551 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_1554 by Steve Count, on Flickr

All painted with a copious amount of rattle cans!

IMG_1594 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_1626 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_1627 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I decided to save some more weight by removing the heater, so looped the coolant hoses on the back of the thermostat housing.

IMG_1603 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I ditched the bonnet release mechanism as the cage now lived where the cable lever would be, plus I got a good deal on some Aerocatches.

IMG_1610 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_1615 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_1631 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also fitted aerocatches to the boot as there was no other way of securing it after ditching the central locking. (Weight saving once again)

IMG_1642 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_1643 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I fitted all new BakerBM engine mounts and Miles gear linkages.

IMG_1646 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I got some Lexan sheet and made some new side windows, used the glass items as a template then went round with a jigsaw before smoothing off the edges on a linisher.

IMG_1649 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_1673 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Came across a cheap Pipercross Viper filter so snapped it up and fitted that.

IMG_1738 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I got some corrugated plastic and made an undertray to sit under the boot floor, the aim was to reduce the air dam effect in the big void between the fuel tank and rear bumper, and to provide a bit of protection for the battery.

IMG_1684 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_1698 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also made a new centre dash panel with an oil pressure gauge, and several switches for various things since getting rid of all the original switches etc.

IMG_1662 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I fitted some seat bars, bucket seats and harnesses.

IMG_1535 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Morris guarding one for me

IMG_1561 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_1630 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_1636 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I fitted some borders to the rear windows in an effort to make them slightly more o.e.

IMG_1768 by Steve Count, on Flickr

And a new heated front screen to combat the removal of the heaters.

IMG_1769 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Edited November 16, 2017 by Prism7guy

[Prism7guy 5]

One of the front wheel bearings was on its way out so I got two replacements, stripped down the hubs, new bearings fitted and painted everything back up.

IMG_1737 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_1751 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_1760 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Time for another trip to the 'ring.

IMG_1817 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Then a trackday at Anglesey killed my brake pads which took the discs with them.

IMG_1985 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_1986 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Luckily a mate had some spare pads which he lent me to get me home. Rather than throw more money at pads for standard calipers i decided to stop messing about and got lucky on ebay one evening. (AP Racing CP5200).

 

IMG_1501 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Before sorting the brakes I decided to treat the rear beam to an upgrade. 21mm torsion bars, 30mm anti roll bar, new febi trailing arm shafts, all new bearings and seals. I'd already welded up the standard beam mounts making them solid.

IMG_2042 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2056 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0919 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_0918 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2081 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Back to the brakes, I was adamant I could squeeze 310mm rotors behind my 15" pro race 1.2's, and after a lot of measuring and drawing etc I ordered a pair of rotors, then knocked up a plate to use for seeing how far back I could offset the rotors meaning smaller spacers would be needed for the wheels to clear the callipers.

IMG_2091 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2098 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The balljoints were the limiting factor, even with the smaller swept area rotors that I opted for.

IMG_2100 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2093 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Once I was happy with dimensions for bells and brackets I ordered in some aluminium and got cracking in my spare time at work.

IMG_2157 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2160 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2163 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2176 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2168 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2175 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I cleaned up the calipers and powder coated them, then got all new seals and pistons. I decided whilst i was at it to fit some bridgecraft adjustable top mounts and made mk2 adjustable drop links. Tried getting as many parts as i could stripped that were aluminium to send them off to be anodised.

IMG_2184 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2200 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2223 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2196 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2219 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2228 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2231 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2233 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Tight fit but around 1mm of clearance at the tightest spots. Not had any issues due to thermal expansion to date, but I have to be careful with wheel weights catching when having the wheels balanced. I also had to fettle the balljoints slightly just to be sure they wouldnt catch the inside of the rotors.

Next up another trip to the 'ring, but before I could go on track I had to change a couple of things due to the rules changing. Wrap around bucket seats are apparently no longer allowed, and roll cages must be padded anywhere that you can touch them when strapped in. So in go the new seats and padding.

IMG_2330 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2333 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Whilst over there I had a bit of an incident having to cut a corner riding over a high kerb to avoid hitting a BMW which I caught a bit fasnt and thought was hanging right for me to overtake only to turn in on me last minute. It was a choice of hitting the kerb or hitting him, I chose the kerb at the expense of the exhaust. (8:05 if you want to skip to said moment).

IMG_2492 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2496 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2613 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Not the best welding in the world, but its held itself together so far. I drove home from the 'ring with the exhaust in two halves, frustratingly loud and hot inside the car, and it happened to be a heatwave that weekend too adding to the heat problems.

Next up i acquired a phase 1 Xsara VTS steering rack, the nice 2.4 turn lock to lock type. I just swapped the original gti6 ram over to keep the correct amount of travel meaning the tyre wouldn't hit the gearbox at full lock.

IMG_2827 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The next project on the car was to make some adjustable tubular wishbones, allowing me to fine tune the camber and caster, after a few hours measuring and designing I bought some CDS steel tube and got busy after hours at work.

IMG_2800 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2874 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2939 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2945 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2992 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Steering with a quick rack, no power steering and all that caster was hard work to say the least, especially on R888's.

Next up was to fit a new clutch, gearbox, cambelt kit and an electric power steering pump. The PAS pump sits infront of the gearbox on the cross member.

IMG_3294 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2974 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_2976 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_3442 by Steve Count, on Flickr

A day out to Cadwell park with a few mates, I hadn't realised that one of the rear anti roll bar end plate bolts had come out meaning I was basically running without a rear arb all day. I thought the handling was a bit funky but put it down to the new wishbones changing so much geometry, all that extra body roll managed to kill my front tyres even with 3 degrees of negative camber.

IMG_3474 by Steve Count, on Flickr

The next stage in the project was to get a bit more power, having looked at the options I was torn between cams with ITB's, or supercharging. I've never been a fan of any turbo car so that was out the window. I had a cut down inlet manifold and a set of bike bodies sat in a box, and some lairy cat cams to go with them, but in the end decided to go down the supercharged route having had a passenger ride up the hill in Allan's 205. Not one to do things easily I decided to have a go at fitting an Eaton M62 rather than a Rotrex. I'll let the pictures do the talking. I bought myself a nice little AC/DC tig welder in preparation as i knew there would be a lot of fabrication needed and i'm not usually one to get work done elsewhere.

IMG_3659 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_3663 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_3667 by Steve Count, on Flickr

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IMG_4082 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

 

IMG_4080 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_4266 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4265 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4269 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4275 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4279 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Edited November 21, 2017 by Prism7guy

[Prism7guy 5]

IMG_4312 by Steve Count, on Flickr

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IMG_4340 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4342 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4345 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4632 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Got a bargain Direnza alloy radiator on ebay one evening, think it's designed to fit a 205. It looked to provide more room with my current predicament which is why i went for it.

IMG_4644 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4650 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4656 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4657 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4659 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4665 by Steve Count, on Flickr

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IMG_4693 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4672 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4730 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4731 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4812 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4822 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4836 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4846 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4695 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4671 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4726 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4734 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4851 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4872 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_4871 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_5051 by Steve Count, on Flickr

IMG_5064 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_5178 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I took a gamble on a DTA E48 ECU that I saw on ebay, buying it as spares or repairs. Turns out it was no good. It held the injectors open constantly so just poured petrol into the engine non-stop whenever the ignition was turned on, annoyingly I didn't notice until after filling the engine up with fresh oil which was ruined with the contamination. Sent the ECU off to DTA to be fixed, but they didn't want to take the job on so I got it home, got annoyed at it as I'd already spent ages making a new loom up to suit that particular ECU. I didn't really want to buy another DTA after the dealings I'd had with them but ended up buying an S40 purely because the wiring was so similar and very little needed changing.

 

IMG_4974 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_4976 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_5133 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I got the engine up and running on a base map on the S40, I think it was the XE one. I took the car for a short test drive to try and tweak the maps a little as I'd booked a mapping session at John Sleath Race Cars Ltd (At the recommendation of Tom Fenton, great place and John really knows his stuff!) but I had to drive the car there. (Too Yorkshire to buy a trailer, and nowhere will rent one out to me due to not having a towing license, and then the other small fact that I don't have a car to use to tow with either). I was about half a mile from home on an industrial estate when the supercharger decided to seize. I whipped off the aux belt and stuck the air filter onto the throttle body on the end of the inlet manifold and limped home, then bought a second supercharger off eBay.

 

IMG_5140 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

The second 'charger arrived and I fitted it, drove the car to mapping and had everything done successfully. The car made 170bhp at the wheels. After mapping the guy who did the mapping asked me to take him out for a spin so he can check the map under normal conditions, so I obliged. A couple of miles down the road this 'charger seized solid.

I was talking to him about it as it wasn't the first time it had happened and he suggested getting rid of the throttle body sat at the 'charger inlet, and fitting a bigger dump valve which would deal with getting rid of the boost when it wasn't needed. I bought a third 'charger, removed the second throttle body and fitted a Tial Q dump valve with a 2psi spring suitable for supercharger applications. Since removing the second throttle body the 'charger no longer gets exceptionally hot even at idle, and I've not had any issues with the setup since.

I also came across a pretty cheap single skin Kevlar bonnet so snapped that up and fitted it, and fitted a satchshift kit around this time too.

 

IMG_5181 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_5182 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_5781 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_5783 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_5788 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

This is what was happening to the superchargers:

 

IMG_5148 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_5147 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also wasn't sure whether it was vibrations from the crank which could have been killing the 'chargers at the time, so I made up a damping coupler out of some polyurethane which I've used in various other bits and bobs around the car.

 

IMG_6620 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6621 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6626 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6700 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6704 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6705 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6709 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also adapted a spring loaded auto tensioner to take the 8 rib wide belt, to help keep the belt at a constant tension. It required a little fettling to accommodate the sheer width of the belt.

 

IMG_6699 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I took the car to a trackday at Blyton around this time, the car itself ran faultlessly all day, the only concern being the oil temperature shooting up to around 130-140 degrees, then once up there the coolant slowly starting to rise too. It seemed I was asking too much of the laminova and smaller 205 radiator, so I decided to go overkill on an air-oil cooler (30 row, it was on offer on eBay at the time and seemed rude not to get it). I also decided to make a shroud to force more air through the radiator rather than being able to go round the front end and into the wheel arches. I also made a shroud for the new oil cooler, which is fitted in front of the offside front wheel as that's the only place I could find space for it.

 

 

 

IMG_6713 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6718 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6640 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6639 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6638 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6856 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6857 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also decided to spend a day looking at my bump steer as it seemed pretty severe. To keep my procedure concise I measured the distance between the centre of the driveshaft and a known point on the wing above it (Masking tape with a cross on it) whilst the car was at its normal ride height, then removed the springs from one of the front dampers and rebuilt everything else back up. Supported the car on the sills at the normal ride height but kept the other front wheel on the ground so it resisted any turning forces. Next I fixed a mirror to the brake rotor and setup a laser a set distance away facing towards the mirror, and had a notepad behind the laser to mark down the returned beams position for various scenarios.
To start with I put a jack under the wishbone and held it at the height where the centre of the driveshaft was the same distance from the marked point on the wing at normal ride height, and put a datum mark on the notepad. Then I raised the wishbone setup in set increments and marked the new lasers position, likewise for lowering the wishbone.
 

After I'd done this I changed the spacing between the rose joint on the track rod and the upright, then did the above again. Spacing the track rod further down from the upright made the bump steer much more severe. After a while I decided that I could get away with a 4mm spacer with very little bump steer throughout the scope that the damper could handle. Ideally it would be less for even less bump steer but that's just not practical to do, so the next stage would be moving the rack a bit, but that's a project for another day. Here are some of the pictures of doing the above.

 

IMG_6881 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6884 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6892 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6893 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6889 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6895 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

The new bump steer spacers.

 

IMG_6898 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

After fitting these I did a trackday at Cadwell park and there is a massive improvement, so it was well worth spending a day messing about doing this.

 

IMG_6908 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

 

Before Cadwell i'd also bought some ally flat, spent a while bending it to the correct profile then bonded it to the underside of the bonnet in an effort to reduce the amount it wafted about. They worked great until late in the day at Cadwell when one came loose.

 

IMG_7143 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_7145 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Edited November 21, 2017 by Prism7guy

[Prism7guy 5]

Since I've had no issues with 'charger #3 I decided to strip down the two scrap 'chargers and have a go at sorting them out as I had nothing to lose but a bit of time, I've skimmed 0.2mm off the ends of the rotor faces, and cleaned up the face of the housing with a home made tool. I've also decided to port one of the housings incase I ever want to chase a bit more power, I did make two smaller pullies to suit the supercharger setup aswell when I made all the other pullies, so they will spin it faster and create more boost when I decide to go after a bit more oomph, but to be honest there's no point chasing power for the time being until I get a limited slip diff fitted.
Here's some pictures of my repairs.

 

IMG_6750 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6751 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6752 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6760 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

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IMG_6790 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Fettled the inlet flange a little too, porting it to the same as the mating face of the supercharger.

 

IMG_6793 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6795 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_6794 by Steve Count, on Flickr

Edited November 21, 2017 by Prism7guy

[calvinhorse 870]

Absolutely mega work Phteven, I've not see any of it since you fitted the charger. The damper on the pulley is a work of art!!!

 

The part where you measured your bump steer with a mirror and a lazer has confirmed that you are a psychopath..

 

 

Edit- shut up Steve

Edited June 2, 2016 by calvinhorse

[Malc 45]

Just read through, very impressive, great work there.

[arbor 2]

Cracking read and some really good skill involved. Sweet.

[petert 588]

Awesome.

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

Wow impressive!...

Great engineering and fabrication skills!!

[Anthony 1,003]

As above, great read and nicely done!

[Silky 33 1 Cars]

Am amazed at some of you guys on here who can just 'knock something together'.

 

Looks absolutely fantastic, great fabrication on those parts

[camgti 56]

Very well done. As with the above comments, amazing fab skills.

 

Spend your next pay check on a plate diff. It will change your world.

 

Great work

[Prism7guy 5]

Thanks for the kind words guys

 

Next up i've had a couple of oil leaks from the take off plate area. The first was the fact that one of the an fittings on the plate would hit the supercharger bracket plate meaning it couldnt be nipped up as tight as needed, the problem being that one of the supercharger mounting bolts is in that area so it wasnt a case of just cutting the plate to suit the an fitting. In the end i drilled a new hole on the mounting plate 30mm away and knocked up an offset spacer at work to compensate and allow space for the an fitting at the same time.

I put helicoil inserts into the offset bracket for extra strength and durability.

Having seen how much easier this made life fitting and removing the 'charger i then made three other spacers with helicoils in each end, much easier than using the old through spacers with nylocs behind the mounting plate.

 

IMG_7135 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_7141 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_7568 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also had an oil leak where one of the an adapters went into the take off plate, the fittings were just supplied with an o-ring and no face groove to sit in and keep it in place like the ones supplied with the torques remote filter housing ones did, if the fittings are too loose they leak, nip them up too much and it squeezes the o-ring out and leaks once again. Tried ordering a variety of dowty washers but none fitted great so i ordered a new pair of fittings that came with dowty washers. I then used them washers with my old fittings (the new ones were plated steel and weighed much more )

 

A quick test drive has proven that all the above fixes have worked so it's now ready for Pugfest.

Edited November 21, 2017 by Prism7guy

[DBG 16]

Awesome, thanks for sharing. Bet it is serious fun to drive.

[Rippthrough 98]

You don't need to sell sand to the Arabs if you just sit back and let them wander in to order some more

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

some nice engineering work there!

 

you should make some 205 parts to sell on here!

[Prism7guy 5]

Thanks, yeah it's great fun to drive!

 

I won't be producing any custom bits for a while, my boss is a bit funny about me making stuff for my own car so making parts to sell on is out of the picture for the time being, maybe one day when i extend the garage and get a few machines of my own.

 

Not really much of an update, but i'm booked on a trackday at Cadwell on the 12th so thought i'd best get some fresh tyres fitted. Giving Nankang AR-1's a try this time, only heard good reviews about them so far and they're significantly cheaper than R888's.

 

IMG_7405 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I'll update this with some videos assuming Cadwell goes alright.

Edited November 21, 2017 by Prism7guy

[Prism7guy 5]

Cadwell came and went, no real drama during the day for me, temperatures were a little higher than i'd have liked but they were stable and it was a very warm day.

 

Some footage from the day:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Doing my best to keep up with a BTCC 306

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

Nice

 

Pete's an animal, no wonder his cars always broke!

[Prism7guy 5]

Time for another update.

 

The aluminium strips that i'd bonded to the underside of the bonnet came loose at Cadwell so i bought some aramid tape and bonded that over the top to hold them in place and stiffen up the bonnet a bit more.

 

IMG_7435 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also caught all this oil in the catch tank just from the day at Cadwell, when i emptied it it was very runny, i'm not too sure whether thats normal or not so if anybody knows feel free to shout up, it also didnt smell too much like oil and had a slight smell of petrol to it, but i don't think i'm overfueling or getting bore wash as the wideband lambda shows the exhaust gasses to be around what i'd expect.

 

IMG_7434 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

Last week i took the car to the Nurburgring for a couple of full days of TF, unfortunately the weather really wasn't on our side with loads of showers, once the rain stopped and the track started drying out there would be an inevitable crash and it would close again usually not opening until the next rain cloud was overhead so i didn't get too many laps in, and only a couple of half decent laps in at that.

 

IMG_7509 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_7515 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_7522 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

The last evening of track time the track had been shut for a couple of hours whilst they recovered the 3+ cars off the track that had crashed previously, the weather was holding out and the track had been forming a somewhat dry line. I'd been waiting in the carpark in the hope that it would open and i'd get in one or two last laps before it closed, it eventually opened with around 20 mins until closing time so i jumped in the car with the intention of having a relatively clear track and being able to set a good lap time. As per my usual luck the car decided it had had enough and two of the bolts that hold the supercharger bracket to the engine mount sheared very early on in the lap, resulting in the 'charger twisting a bit on the other two bolts and the pulley damper then making contact with the front leg of the chassis.

 

IMG_7529 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_7528 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

As you can see it's made a mess of the dampers, so i've ordered some aluminium round bar to make new ones, with any luck i'll get them made in the next couple of weeks along with a new improved way of securing the 'charger bracket to the engine mount.

 

Here's the fateful final lap when the bolts decided to shear.

 

And heres another dry lap i managed the day before, 9:10BTG with three yellow flags and a very slow attempt at Bergwerk as I was on track around 15 minutes before this lap and there was fluid on the corner, meaning very little grip!

 

I'll be back there again next year, hopefully with more improvements and much better luck in terms of weather and a clear track, i think the car should be capable of 8:teens under the right conditions.

Edited November 21, 2017 by Prism7guy

[RedRkt 1]

Awesome work dude, love this thread.

What's size sc pulley did you use? I've just started a m62 conversion. Looking for 7-9 psi and would like to know what results you've had.

[Prism7guy 5]

I'll have to check the program for the diameter that i used on the sc, 80mm rings a bell, and 128mm for the crank pulley but i'll double check at work tomorrow and let you know.

If memory serves me right i went with 80mm sc pulley and 128mm crank pulley as i wanted the sc to be 12,000rpm when the crank is doing 7,500rpm.

The other sc pullies i've got will spin the sc 14,000 rpm as thats the safe limit from what i read, and one thats 10% less. I could do with booking another mapping session in the new year and have this current map checked with this pulley and get a couple of revisions made for the other two pullies, so it should be fairly simple to chop and change depending on how much power i want.

[Prism7guy 5]

Forgot to mention previously, i was seeing 6psi with the 80mm pulley when i had it mapped but that seemed to drop to 4psi above 4,500rpm, i suspect due to belt slip and various other factors that i've now changed. At that boost level it was making a consistent 170bhp at the wheels, 175 was possible by advancing the timing but we decided to back it off a bit for some safety margin.

 

I've done a bit more work on the car this weekend, the old s/c damper setup took a bit of a battering when the stainless bolts sheared in germany:

 

IMG_7561 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

The replacements, i made a spare of each just incase the worst should happen again.

 

IMG_7566 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

The new spacers that sit between the engine mount and 'charger bracket, attached by six M10x1.25 12.9 capscrews, the aluminium has helicoils fitted which should increase strength a little and add some durability incase i need to remove them in the future. Likewise, i'm using M10x1.25 10.9 bolts to clamp the 'charger plate in place.

 

IMG_7567 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

IMG_7568 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I also made an aluminium bracket that sits under the inlet manifold which supports one of the coolant hoses which runs from the thermostat housing to the header tank, that should reduce the risk of it getting caught on anything and causing a leak.

 

IMG_7569 by Steve Count, on Flickr

 

I'm just waiting for some high tensile bolts to arrive to mount the 'charger to the posts on the 'charger bracket, once they arrive next week the 'charger can be refitted and all the boost pipework can go back on ready for it's next trackday.

Edited November 21, 2017 by Prism7guy

[RedRkt 1]

Cheers for the info dude, those figures roughly match my extremely limited math so at least I'm heading in the right direction. Wish I had your machining skills, alternative pulleys seem a bit scarce for the m62 so I'll prob nod up getting some made. Keep up the good work.

[RedRkt 1]

Forgot to ask, did you use a particular formula for sizing the sc pulleys?