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Barryboy85

Help! Car Won't Start

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Barryboy85

Help needed.... Right I thought I would have ago at changing the servo myself, after hours of struggling in the footwell I got the old one out and replaced it with a second hand servo.

However I did notice it was slightly smaller than the one I took out...all fitted back in fired the car up , all ok for 30 seconds and it splutters and dies..

And that's how it's stayed .. You have to rev to keep it going... Popping noise out the exuast aswell...

Please tell me I've not f##ked it up!

It's a 1,9 ...

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steve@cornwall

Check the vacuum pipe from servo to manifold at both ends,that it's tightly secured and the servo end hasn't cracked at the elbow

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Barryboy85

I will double check but I think it all seemed OK...do you think it has anything to do the the second hand servo beng smaller in size ?

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Anthony

No, the servo size won't cause an issue.

 

As Steve said, an air leak seems the most likely cause if all you've done is swap the servo.

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Barryboy85

Ok well I've tried to start it again and now it won't start... Would an air leak stop it from starting or just running rough?

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steve@cornwall

I'm not sure if internal servo failure can lead to a leak, but would think it could, I would try blanking off the manifold union to diagnose.

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Barryboy85

Right if now got her running ... But brakes feel really soft almost like there's no brakes... Pls don't tell me the servo is knackered?

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welshpug

knackered servo gives heavy solid feel to the pedal, if its soft you probably have air in the lines, or youre used to the heavy pedal of a dead servo

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Anthony

Other possibility is the servo rod is incorrectly adjusted which would give a lot of dead travel on the pedal

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Barryboy85

So bleeding the brakes might help? And how do I go about that Anthony?

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Telf

bleed the brakes by cracking off each bleed nipple in turn on the brake calliper.

 

press brake pedal- ensure the fluid released has no air/bubbles/doesn't splutter.

 

With the brake depressed tighten the released nipple and repeat for the other 3 callipers.

 

Check the reservoir and refill as required.

 

Ideally a 2 man job- one pressing the pedal the other watches/tightens the bleed nipple.

 

Main thing to bear in mind- the nipples are often corroded/bond to the calliper so can shear when force is applied to release them. You can usually feel if they wont release they have a buttery weird feeling as you apply torque.

 

Spray with a good oil, let soak and be gentle, ensure you don't apply an uneven force as you undo them. Its a bit of a lottery in my experience.

 

I should add that's how I do my brakes - if you aren't sure then don't do them - no warranty implied, no refunds and I'm not responsible if you knacker your brakes. :D

 

If you have a Haynes manual its covered in there- if you don't have one get the workshop manual off fleabay because its better! (has an orange cover rather than red)

Edited by Telf

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Barryboy85

Cheers telf I will have a look and maybe have a bash...

 

Thanks everyone for your help...if still can't sort I will be back on...????

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Barryboy85

I have now bled my brakes and still no difference ... I still have no brakes... I'm sure the servo is knackered!

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barneys66

Light as in non existent?

 

Stupid question, and I don't know how these ones fit together, but is the pushrod between the pedal and master cylinder located correctly

 

Or, if it's a different servo, the pushrod may not be suitable at all? Put some pics up if you can.

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Barryboy85

Light and no brakes at all...the servo was a second hand one....on the brake pedal there are two holes... Is it possible iv connected it to the servo rod wrong?

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barneys66

Did you push any fluid out when bleeding the brakes..?

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Barryboy85

Not really... Only a tiny bit... And that kept moving up and back down the pipe!????

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toolie72

Buy the one man kit-it's designed to stop fluid going back in (or my cheap tool of choice the pressurised one)

You are just moving the air back and for not out

If you used the one man kit that uses the spare wheel it pressurises the system so when you open bleed nipple you'll see air being pushed out-big bubbles first, tiny wee ones after

 

If you have to use the two man/jar method put a dod of fluid in bottom of jar and make sure hose end is in it-that should stop air being drawn back in

Persevere-you have my permission to swear-you will get there

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Barryboy85

The kit I did uses was a one man kit.... Are we saying that these are sh*t or am I not using it right? I'm still sure it's the servo that Has shot it!

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barneys66

Pressurised kits shouldn't allow fluid back up the pipe..?

 

My point with bleeding the brakes was if pressing the pedal (old school way) forced any fluid out. If it did, at least you know the pedal is pumping the master cylinder.

 

I'd take it all apart and make sure everything's compatible, then put it back together making sure it all engages properly.

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toolie72

Not saying nothing Barry, brakes are many peoples least favourite job (not my favourite) they are a very simple hydraulic circuit but if they can be a pain in arse, they will be!!

At one time I had 4pots on mine and I had to take calipers off and turn them upside down to get all air out?!?!

If you're just replacing fluid its dead easy-if you're trying to get air out its more of a faff

 

I'm not sure that a bad servo would give you no brakes, plenty cars in the past never had servos-just meant you had to press harder on a very hard pedal-the servo just boosts your foot pressure

What's brake pedal like with engine off-if it's hard until you start engine, then drops to floor once started then yes it's your servo as that's the only component that changes with engine running-if they're soft all the time it's air in the system

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Barryboy85

I've bled the brakes again and was more successful with getting the air out and filling the pot up with the fluid... But still no brakes.... I've obviously gone wrong somewhere!

Looks like it's all got to come out again ????

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toolie72

Could you be pushing air out of bleed nipples but have some getting sucked back in if your nipples (oo-er) are slack on old threads?

I'd say (without looking) that servo/master cylinder can't be set up wrong if you are managing to get fluid out when you press pedal, if it was connected wrong surely nothing would come out, the fact it is means you are able to move the fluid

 

Are brakes solid until you start engine

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Barryboy85

No brake are soft same when engine is started....I'm lost on this one now... Bubbles came out aswell as fluid...I did it the two man way aswell... So couldn't have sucked air back in... Is there a connector for the brakes under the steering wheel that a may not have connected back up when I took the lower steering wheel surrounded off?

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Telf

Have you got someone assisting you when bleed the brakes?

 

Don't use the 1 man kits they are bloody useless.

 

If the line has a lot of air in it can be a mission to get it all out. Use a buddy and go slow. once there is no bubbles tighten and repeat on each line

Edited by Telf

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