Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 20, 2016 Cheers Mei I'll give them a call, they don't advertise Peugeot ones on their website but does say to phone. I was recommended to use the PEC ones but I did wonder as they seem to be sold with the Wossner pistons that pretty much everyone says to avoid, I should have done some looking into and asked about before buying, but everyone has their own individual experiences. I'll check out robsons before trying to sell these on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted August 20, 2016 I emailed them and spoke to Carl Robson Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 21, 2016 So I got half a day in the garage with the old man took off the front suspension struts and carried on taking the arch back to metal to expose the rotten seam, to those that have stripped the car fully to bare metal you have my upmost respect the crap and debris and awkward positions is a bitch! Next weekend I've got 2 days to get on with it I hope to have it sorted. Also dropped the fuel tank as I wanted to check a temp fix I done a few years back, the sill where the fuel tank sits on has just started to rot so another thing to sort! Packaged the head up to send off to sandy tomorrow I put so much bubble wrap in it I hope it makes it there alright. Something I've been meaning to ask is what is this for? If I remember right it had something to do with the original coil pack? I know the Cables are earths. I also got a Maun carbon steel straight edge delivered this week to check out liner protrusion. I need to get all the messy work out the way first though! Anyways I hope to do some serious progressing in the next month. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toolie72 67 1 Cars Posted August 21, 2016 That's your old ignition amplifier-blue Bosch are the ones to buy if I remember right-sell it to a forum member that needs it lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 21, 2016 Nice one cheers Paul, I've got quite a collection of original parts building up and I was going to do a bulk sale once I've completed the build and know I definitely don't need anything, knowing me I'll end up selling something Id need! So I'm good to remove this and relocate the earths? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted September 2, 2016 Good morning guys, A question with respraying two different locations on the car. The first is the underside above the fuel tank, I've trying to read up on the best approach. I am basically taking an area back to metal with a wire wheel removing the original underseal, primers and rust, I am then going to treat with krust and then I need to seal it up again but what is the preferred products? I have been looking into Dynax S50 but does this require an etch primer before hand? The second area is within the engine bay inner wings, arches and headlight panels, as I am blending back into the existing paint / underseal what would be the best products for this? I have a compressor and am going to get a spray gun too. Shane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted September 11, 2016 A little update, spent last Sunday taking the n/s wing off and cutting out the rusted inner wing, took me and the old man about two hours to figure out where the bolt was inside the car to release the wing only to realise it was right in front of us the whole time! The hot air gun made it incredibly easy and just used a putty knife. Both wings are off now and wire wheeling the arches! What a soul destroying messy job! But glad I am as it revealed a few new spots of rust that left any longer would have started to pit. Getting the welding done next weekend so trying to get all the messy work done now. Still have to tidy this up but almost there for welding Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy 105 1 Cars Posted September 26, 2016 Great read. Keep it coming, especially as I am doing roughly the same thing and learning from the answers you get to your questions! Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted October 1, 2016 Cheers Andy good luck mate, are you doing a thread as well? What's your plan for the mi16? things are just moving way too slowly and dealing with the rust how I have I now think was a bad move as I've left the metal bare for awhile now, luckily the weather is only just turning so the next few weekends I should be able to get it all primed and painted now. The only thing that has happened is my sisters over half welding in the inner wing Ive got a paint supplier primed up just need to get the spray gun for my compressor and inline filters. They recommend ferrobettol primer / rust inhibitor, anybody have any opinions on this? I'm going to get them to run through how I should go about respraying as I have never done it before plus it's only in the arches and engine bay so if I mess it up not too sad. Looking at seam sealers as well. Hopefully start making some progress soon and almost to the end of the messy work I hope! Shane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 586 Posted October 2, 2016 The only thing that has happened is my sisters over half welding in the inner wing I probably would have let your sister do it. Use plenty of bog. The bigger the blob the better the job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted October 2, 2016 To be fair I don't know the first thing about welding I couldnt comment, I've read about how thin this metal is so didn't want to give it a go but it all seems pretty well stuck in there....... I hope, would you say it's pretty rough then? I can still ask my sister to give it a go Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toolie72 67 1 Cars Posted October 2, 2016 Eh!!! Am I reading this right-a woman welding a 205??? Is she single#love Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted October 2, 2016 Out of all the above that's what you read in all of that? Besides you wouldn't want to go there mate you'd end up walking away like John Wayne and probably feeling violated looking for a life as a reformed monk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy 105 1 Cars Posted November 4, 2016 How is progress going ? Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted November 5, 2016 Things are going far too slow, my fault for not planning it properly and for not having time. Tomorrow I'm Doex gel the chassis areas I've exposed and then getting it primed and sealed plus have a good tidy up in the garage. Engine wise sandy started my head and loom last week so hoping to have that back within the next couple of weeks, once it is back I intend to clean the block as you have and get everything ready to build back together, I have everything I need once the head gets back it's just putting the time in now..... oh and I still need to gap the piston rings, in the mean time i have been researching methods and tolerances and writing a procedure to follow for when I build the engine so I don't miss anything. It will be well into next year by the time it's on the road but I'd prefer that than rush it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy 105 1 Cars Posted November 6, 2016 Morning,Ditto. I hope to have my back on the road next summer( in time for Pugfest?) but I am not setting myself a strict deadline. Nevertheless, I do want to drive the thing , so it will not be in pieces for too long I hope . Best of luck with yours. I am off to the body shop on Thursday and will hopefully get some photographs that indicate real progress. Bits should be ready for collection from the machine shop by the 14th so I hope to get on with at least the bottom half of the engine build soon afterwards. I might have run into a potential snag with my pistons and liners, as the former are 'B' stamped and the latter 83.00mm rather than 83.01. This has already been pointed out to me but did not register immediately. Some careful piston measuring needed,perhaps followed by some equally careful liner honing. That will be another conversation with the machine shop when I go. Andy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted December 2, 2016 These are just pure and utter unaldulterated man porn It's moving slow and with the other half now working weekends even slower but I hope to have it on the road for summer...... 2017 The head will hopefully be back next week, plan is to concentrate on getting the engine built for January and then to take it down to Sandy for running in and mapping on the dyno. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy 105 1 Cars Posted December 3, 2016 They look beautiful. Love the manifold. I have the Jenvey one for my bodies. Is yours a Satchel modified o.e one or is it some of your own handiwork? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andy 105 1 Cars Posted December 3, 2016 Another question. I note that you are taking your built up engine to be mapped on a dyno. That could be an option for me although I had not planned it that way originally. However, like you I hope to have my engine rebuilt by the end of January. May I ask the approximate cost of doing the mapping this way ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted December 3, 2016 They have been on order for awhile (I told them I was in no rush as other components were taking longer) but as soon as I opened the box I was grinning like a Cheshire Cat, I sent down my o.e inlet to Satchells to modify and put this together, I would love to have the skills that these and others have to do this kind of stuff. The running in and mapping has been playing on my mind since I pretty much started the project, I have read about people running in on the oe inlet and ecu but I have always thought that so much of mine is past stock spec I.e high comp pistons and the cams so I didn't think this would work for me and the risks were too high so I spoke with sandy who pretty much confirmed this, so he offered for me to bring the engine down for a dyno session of running in and mapping plus to show me the process which will be awesome. As it is a service rather than parts I don't feel I should give the figure on here but it is certainly under 1k, as you can imagine have to pay for the dyno plus Sandy's time to set the engine up and map it, the dyno is around £350 though which is pretty standard I think. Another thing to consider is how much more accurate it is to map an engine directly connected to the dyno instead of having to allow for losses in moving parts, although he did say that it may require slight tweaking once on its wheels. It is extra costs but the possibility of it doing a better running in than a base map or stock ecu and being with someone who has a higher chance of spotting potential warning signs and stopping whilst running in to rectify I think definitely outweighs the cost especially if there is so much out of stock spec. Plus I'm not sure of your total predicted costs for the engine but mine are going to come in around the 8-9k mark for the engine including everything to get it running- tb's, ecu etc. Hope this sort of helps and apologies if I have dribbled on. What ecu have you gone for on yours? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted December 3, 2016 Apologies just spotted emerald k6, are you going wasted spark? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted December 3, 2016 I got my trumpets this week too, I've got a very similar looking inlet, I've mounted my filter the other way up to keep the ears out of the way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted December 3, 2016 What size did you go for mei? Are they for the inlet you chopped down yourself? I was wondering about the ears myself I'm not too sure how it's all going to fit yet until I start rebuilding and i have gone for 90mm trumpets with the plan to adapt everything, I need to look but is the filter backing plate able to rotate 180 or is it drilled to be in this location? I've put them away until I need them so can't look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted December 3, 2016 mine are 50mm, on a Satchell inlet much like yours but 8 injectors, length was decided upon by Colin after I told him my engine spec. backplate will go the other way up if you drill the holes for the bolts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted December 3, 2016 Have you got a thread running for this build? I did ask the question about using all 8 but I won't need it for my application, are you going for track? I've been reading the recent thread on trumpet lengths, I suppose the only true way to determine the most ideal length for a specific engine is to spend a lot of dyno time trying different lengths which will be very expensive I just asked sandy what he would recommend. Shame I didn't think about that before hand! I hope to box the filter in so I'll see how it all comes together first. Have you got your injectors on the bodies on the underside? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites