welshpug 1,657 Posted July 7, 2016 check on servicebox, it shows the sprocket sizes and chain lengths on there. ive built my engine to standard tolerances, luckily the crank ive used wasn't worn at all Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Reebmit 51 4 Cars Posted July 7, 2016 Opinions on Constella sump baffles? One on eBay at the moment for £115? When I was looking most people were agreeing the Constella was a good route to go. Got one in an Mi I'm just about to fit. Was a nice well made product, very happy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted July 8, 2016 Hi Tim thanks for the reassurance, what's involved with installing it? I see that it bolts between the sump and spacer and a gasket on both faces required but any welding needed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted July 9, 2016 Cams have arrived along with an S16 thermostat housing courtesy of Peter T Now to get the head sent away to the machinists to have them fitted. Just the head and liners then I can get around to finally putting it all together! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Reebmit 51 4 Cars Posted July 9, 2016 (edited) No welding. When I had sump off, unbolt and remove oil pump, clean up the spacer plate spotlessly. I use silicone on spacer plate then fit baffle plate then oil pump back on. Then again ensure all mating surfaces are spotless and fit new original sump gasket followed by sump without any sealant. Some people use two gaskets but bolts are a little short, not my prefered route. On machined or flat surfaces I always use SMALL amount of silicone. Having all mating surfaces spotless is key to avoiding leaks.... ☺ Edited July 9, 2016 by Reebmit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted July 11, 2016 Wicked, I've never done welding and the only person I know that does prefers to do his own creative thing. Thanks for the advice on the silicone will do as suggested, I've cleaned all the original gasket off and had the sump, spacer and block chemically cleaned but is there any cleaning agent I should use? I've got gunk but that was to clean the proper grime off the block and gearbox, and I've got the usual brake cleaner and wd. Also I'm not sure if I should be looking into a catch tank or not? And my final question is about dip stick......... Rare as rocking horse stuff! I've got the actual metal dip but the plastic top was crushed before I got the engine! What's the common way around this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Reebmit 51 4 Cars Posted July 11, 2016 I use thinners or pre-paint ☺ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted July 20, 2016 I haven't given up on the build gents just sorting out issues, think I need a code reader for women. I've ordered 45mm jenvey throttle bodies from satchells and just sent them my mi16 manifold to be modified. Can anyone comment on the pros and cons with double injectors? I know what size I will require if I were to run single but how do you calculate for doubles? Also is the standard 205 fuel pump enough to run this set up? Also been looking into ecu's, I was initially going to go with the emerald k6 but read about its refresh rate being 360 degree, I've spotted the dta s80 on eBay for a reasonable price compared to direct and after reading up about them they seem to be of great quality and usability, as I am going coil per plug and sequential injection I'm not sure whether the s60 would be able to do what I want especially if I go double injectors (8 injector outputs) I assume ideally each injector would need to be individually controlled or I suppose they could be set up in pairs or is individual control a bit over the top? I have emailed sandy asking if he would do my loom and was hoping to get his views on the above but no reply so can only assume he is a busy man understandably. Appreciate your input guys Shane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 5, 2016 Liners finally came during the week I now just need the oversized bearings, a good quality straight edge engine lube and the engine gasket and seals and I can put the bottom end together, I still have to get the head to a descent machinist but thought I'd wait to see what block deck and liners are like first. I've managed to speak to sandy who is putting together my loom and supplying the dta s60 ecu, I just need to remove my old one now and send it to him so he can use the brown plugs, had an hour last Sunday but didn't achieve much so I've ft this Sunday coming to finish it. When I remove these can anyone tell me why a couple of the wires are heading into the dash instead of down to the loom? My knowledge of wiring is pathetic at best and really don't want to cut anything I shouldn't! I hope to be building this now in the next month as soon as I can find enough time to commit to it so I'm not rushed, I find myself dreaming of what it is going to be like driving it whilst driving my poxy works van, I cannot wait. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 5, 2016 And I've also been looking into the best way to run the engine in, basically 2 ways, soft and gentle like kyepan did or hard, I understand that main components to run in are the cams and rings. With bedding in the rings to the liners I'm now wondering as I have bought ductile iron liners which are advertised as being 3x stronger than standard will this determine how I bed them in? i assume it will take longer for the rings to bed in the liners by shaving the ridges off so should I do more regular oil changes? I should probably concentrate on getting it built before thinking about this but it's one of the many questions I have circling my head, along with how long should I run this without a proper map but I need it bedded in first to a stage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 17, 2016 Hi guys I need help with coils, I have sandy supplying me with a Dta s60 and loom, I am going coil per plug and was originally looking at using the LS1 coils but expense and availability in the uk are looking to be an issue here, I know to avoid the S16 coils but what are the gti6 coils like? Would I need to change my cam cover for this? The dta has built in individual igniters for the coils so either way shouldn't be an issue. Progress is painful at the moment due to lack of time plus dealing with bloody rust and seized on corner bumper brackets, maybe looking at replacing the N/S wing but would prefer leaving in place. Just agreeing with Sandy now to do my head work as I can't find a reputable one in my area but to be honest everything I've researched about his work is outstanding to the point of being pornographic so im happy with this. Other than the exhaust manifold, gearbox and other minor parts everything has been ordered I just need to put in the time now. I hope to update with some real progress soon hopefully. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 586 Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) If the DTA has drivers, I'd use Bosch HEC715 or 716 coils. Edited August 17, 2016 by petert Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 17, 2016 Cheers Peter your a star I'll have a look for them now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 17, 2016 I'm not having much joy with them either! Seems to all be from Australia and the postage is the same as the cost of the coil pretty much! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 17, 2016 Are these a Mazda rx7 coil replacement? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted August 17, 2016 bit of googling suggests the hec715 is used on old early bluebirds and there are some on ebay at 25 odd each. why not use the proven reliable route of a bosch 8v tu/xu coil and gm plug leads? You'll need a cam sensor to make cop work, not sure you will see much gains other than lower emissions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 17, 2016 I spotted the bluebird but didn't actually google bluebird coils, your googling skills are better than mine mei thank you very much. Do you mean the standard single coil pack? Please forgive me my knowledge is limited but learning as I go. hall effect cam sensor is sorted, my inlet cam is basically an S16 with the tang and I have the thermostat housing. Pretty much everyone has said the same and I do respect everyone's comments but I want to give it a go, the full cop, sequential injection and wide band lambda will enable full control of AFR and adjustment in real time hopefully increasing how the engine reacts and performs I know this will take longer to set up but I want to follow it through, also having a map sensor mounted external of the manifold just for barometric pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 17, 2016 The NGK ones? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 17, 2016 I'm obviously being a complete knob, I type in Nissan bluebird hec 715 coil pack and other variations of that wording into eBay and pencil coils and other stuff keep coming up but not hec 715...... Feeling like a tool Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 586 Posted August 17, 2016 Strange. The HEC715/716 is just an off the shelf coil we can buy at local auto parts stores. The variation in part number is just the tower connection type. I'm not sure what vehicle they were originally off, if any. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 18, 2016 This is the right coil isn't it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 586 Posted August 18, 2016 Looks like one. What about using MEC717/718? I think mine are 718. http://apps.bosch.com.au/AAExtranet_TechSearch/docs/GeneralInformation/TCoilspecs.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 18, 2016 I've found a uk LS1 supplier for not too savage money Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shane17 7 1 Cars Posted August 20, 2016 Has anybody had any issues using PEC rods? Sandy suggested not using them as he has found several that fail around the bolt holes counterbores, everyone's experiences are different and I respect that, I have already purchased them awhile ago plus the arrow rods are over double the cost of the PEC ones! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted August 20, 2016 Robson wont be much more than PEC and a much better design and finish, Sandy has used them, I have some custom ones in my engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
