Rallye Starting Issue

[jdr 0]

Hi, done some searching on this but couldn't find the exact same symptoms.

 

My 1.4 rallye has been in storage for 2 years and was not started during this time, I'm trying to get to the bottom of it not starting now. The car turns over but will not fire, if i spray carb cleaner down the carb it will fire up briefly but obviously not enough to keep it running.

 

 

I thought this was a fueling issue and replaced the fuel pump but still having the same issue, I have tested all the plugs and they all getting spark. After about 8 turns the engine does not crank, could it be the starter motor?

 

Its had a new battery, carb rebuilt and plugs. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

There is fuel in there yes?!

[jdr 0]

Theres fuel in the tank yes and replaced the fuel filter too.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

In that case I'd remove strip and clean the carburettor and then try again.

[jdr 0]

Ok thanks will give it a go.

[Ozymandis 97]

In that case I'd remove strip and clean the carburettor and then try again.

+1

[jdr 0]

Removed and stripped the carb and same problem. There is no fuel at all in the carb, it is completely dry. However if i disconnect the direct fuel line to the carb (after the mechanical fuel pump) turn the car over, fuel gushes at a fast rate into a bucket.

 

So it has to be the carb at fault, is it possible the guy who rebuild it messed around with the mixture controls? It seems to me as the carb is effectively switched off, so I guess my next question is where is the mixture screw on a solex carb?

 

Thanks

[Ozymandis 97]

Float valve, fuel At carb None in carb!

 

blow down the inlet and work the float up and down,soon tell you.

Get someone over 50 to have a look

Edited April 9, 2016 by Ozymandis

[jdr 0]

thanks for the quick response, do you mean blow down the carb chamber and I should see the float valve move?

Thanks

[Ozymandis 97]

The float should drop under its own weight, and then blow down the fuel inlet to see if the vale is open.

 

Then push it up gently as though it was floating, blow down the fuel inlet and see if the valves shut.

 

The valves not moved by fuel pressure but by the buoyancy of the float. Like a toilet cistern.

 

This assumes you pulled it to bits and have it in your hands.

Edited April 9, 2016 by Ozymandis

[jdr 0]

oh right I get you, the carb is still on the car.

I will remove it and do as you say, not too familiar with carbs, where is the float valve located?

[Ozymandis 97]

You need to take the top off the carb , and the float dangles from the top, the float valve is built in to the top of the carb.

It should be an easy blow when the float dangles and impossible when lifted up its very simple really.

 

Exactly which carb have you, i can probably find a diagram for you?

Edited April 9, 2016 by Ozymandis

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Get someone over 50 to have a look

Ha ha ha ha, although not always true, I cut my teeth on Minis, and I'm not that old by some way!

[Ozymandis 97]

Ha ha ha ha, although not always true, I cut my teeth on Minis, and I'm not that old by some way!

Your an honurary old bloke Tom.

 

How are you with dynamoe control box setting up?

[jdr 0]

thanks appreciate the help, theres no tag left on it so not sure on model code.

But its a single solex carb off a 1.4, seems to be a very basic one.

 

Accord to haynes its either a solex PBISA or solex 32-34 Z2

[Ozymandis 97]

Theres pics in the Haynes pages 86 and 87, assuming you have the edition with a black and white front illustration,

and not the crap condensed later manual with a colour pic on the front.

 

You dont need to take the carb off just the top of it.

[jdr 0]

got the colour pic one I'm afraid

[Ozymandis 97]

http://s43.photobucket.com/user/spijker5/media/solex32PBISA7.jpg.html

 

heres a pic of how it works

F is the float

P is the float valve/needle valve

 

 

The float pushes the pin/needle in and shuts the fuel off, they block up.

Edited April 9, 2016 by Ozymandis

[jdr 0]

Great thanks! Will let you know how I get on.

[Ozymandis 97]

OK good luck with it, proper old fashioned early motoring stuff ha ha ha

[jdr 0]

So quick update, took the carb to the guy who rebuilt it (he is over 50), float valve is fine there was just a block on the inlet of the carb.

 

Put the carb back on the cars, it's getting plenty of fuel now and not dry, however now the car is not getting any spark!

 

Good voltage at the battery and it's getting to the coil pack, grounding seems fine. What ignition part is likely to fail with excessive cranking? I have replaced the starter motor, not sure if I should continue with testing voltage or buy new ignitions leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm etc?

Edited April 12, 2016 by jdr

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

 

Your an honurary old bloke Tom.

 

How are you with dynamoe control box setting up?

Ha, not very good, but I have tried to mess with one once, on a Series 1 Landy.

[Ozymandis 97]

Remove the king lead (from coil to dizzy cap), see if you have spark from that to the engine.

If so its cap, rotor arm, leads or plugs.

[Ozymandis 97]

Why did you change the starter?

I would remove and refit all terminals and connections. You may have a poor connection on something if it was sparking before.

 

Also check you haven't inadvertently pulled, pushed or disturbed a connection on something whilst you were working on the fuel and air supply side of things.

 

Dont just throw a load of bits at it, use your reasoning powers first.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Agreed, its unusual for components just to fail all of a sudden, especially as it was sparking before. You haven't left the ignition turned on for a long time have you? As I have known coils expire like this before. But as said have a really good look round all connections etc and anything you might have disturbed.