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jonb_5

Engine Components

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jonb_5

Hi

 

I am after a couple of bits. I am fitting a GTI6 head to my XU5 block. I need a cylinder head gasket and a set of head bolts and a cam belt.

 

Any recommendations on where to buy these?

 

Thanks

 

Jon

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allye

Mister auto, euro car parts, GSF etc. just make sure you select good/premium brands.

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petert

I'll be keen to hear how you solve the engine mount issue.

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welshpug

my local engine remanufacturers usually have stuff on the shelf at very competitive prices.

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jonb_5

Thank you.

 

I have looked up I can just get a standard head gasket and measure the length of the belt and get on of those.

 

My issue seems to be the head bolts. Correct me if I am wrong but standard gti6 has m12 x 115 and 205 has m12 x 175??

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

 

Jon

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Tom Fenton

Alloy block XU are 11x1.5mm thread in the block. I would guess that XU9J4 Mi16 head bolts would be the ones to use but please don't just take my word for that without checking, as it is only a guess.

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welshpug

you want xu7 bolts, off the top of my head they're the same as the 8v.

 

standard alloy block gasket, aftermarket are all the same.

 

belt kit I would use the xu7.

 

engine mount bracket might need to be custom made as the 16v ones dont quite match up, I did take a few pictures years ago but can't find them, some longer bolts and spacers might sort some out.

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calvinhorse

The liners will be smaller than the head so this will cause a step and part of the fire ring will sit inside the combustion area

 

I was advised to use a Payen head gasket (which I have) as it has wider fire rings to give a better sealing area

 

Either that or custom copper gasket

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jonb_5

Thank you for the advice.

 

The XU7 head bolts and XU5/9 all appear to be 175mm long. I have put these into the GTi6 head and then side by side put one into a standard 8 valve head and when in the gti6 head, they must stick out an extra 20mm or so. Surely I would need some shorter bolts / or some spacers?

 

Do you have a part number for the head gasket by any chance, it seems there are a lot to choose from.

 

Thanks

 

Jon

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petert

I think you should solve the engine mount issue before committing too much further. I could never come up with an acceptable solution, other than use an XU9J4 block.

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welshpug

ahh yes, correction, I saw a listing for a 1.8 engine and forgot about the 8v one! its the 1.9 Mi that uses the same bolts as the 8v

 

HBS0891 - M11x1.50x159mm is for an LFY XU7JP4.

 

BL650 (Fibre), 1.20mm
BR510 (Fibre), 1.44mm

 

are for the 8v engines.

 

there's AD5100 (Fibre) is for the 16v 1.8 which IIRC is 1.4mm.

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calvinhorse

I'll do my best to get the part number tonight

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welshpug

part numbers above are Payen.

 

I don't think the combustion chamber will be an issue, they are the same CC on the XU7 as the gti6.

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dcc

Just thinking back about what I read in the past, isnt the gti6 head pretty nasty to use for smaller cc egines? The xu10j4r head being a much better choice for smaller cc?

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welshpug

really depends on budget and time constraints, the J4RS has decent springs for mild cams, where the 7 and 10J4R don't and need work for the springs to fit, the 7 would be ideal but the ports need work.

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calvinhorse

He said xu5 block not xu7 :)

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welshpug

same difference! still 83mm bore.

Edited by welshpug

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calvinhorse

Thats interesting, so not the same problems as the 2.0 8v head onto a xu5 block

 

I need to see a gti6 head, not seen one for a while

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welshpug

If I remember I'll get some pics later, got all three types of late 16v heads on the shelf, might even have an 8v.

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jonb_5

I have managed to find the head bolts although I seem to be missing a 1 off of the end of the part number on Mister Auto. I guess this shouldn't matter. They are the male torque type. Also, do I need a spacer as well or can I use the ones off of my 205 bolts?

 

I assume the better gasket to get will also be the 16 valve one, AD5100...??

 

I have had a play with the engine mounts and it didn't seem too big of a job to CNC up an adaptor plate to offset the bolt pattern but I will do some sketches to get opinions on it.

 

Thanks

 

Jon

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petert

I have had a play with the engine mounts and it didn't seem too big of a job to CNC up an adaptor plate to offset the bolt pattern but I will do some sketches to get opinions on it.

 

 

If you've got the skills then yes, but for joe average, only 2 out of 5 bolts line up, thus it's going to fail. Don't forget you also need to relocate the dipstick. In many ways, it's just easier to use an XU9J4 block.

Edited by petert

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jonb_5

Thanks for the advice.

 

I would love to take the easy option, but the engine is for competition use and the rules do not allow me to use the XU9J4 block as it was never fitted as standard to a 205.

 

I was looking and am sure I could use the alternator mounting bolts as well and wrap the bracket around to the front of the block, therefore resisting movement using the mount as well as the bolt holes. I will get some drawings done once I have taken some measurements as I am sure it will be a point for discussion.

 

The dipstick should be straight forward enough to bend up a new tube and I can source a longer dipstick to use once I know lengths etc.

 

Just to confirm, does anyone know specifically which head gasket is required? I still have a lot to learn on the engine building front...

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petert

If it's a competition engine and you have sufficient liner protrusion (0.002-0.003") I'd use a copper head gasket. Then you can accurately control the CR. My supplier makes them in 0.5, 0.7, 1.0 and 1.2mm thicknesses. I've never had to o-ring a liner engine but I know others who do.

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welshpug

just had a look at the heads, both combustion chambers at their widest is 82mm.

Edited by welshpug

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calvinhorse

That makes life a lot easier!

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