[Project] 205 Dimma S16 Turbo Converting To 4X4

[welshpug 1,657]

Will they not be held by the torsion bars anyway?

 

 

can't see any!

 

 

309 pictured above does though.

 

without a proper lateral location of the trailing arm the seals will wear quite quickly and also bind if you use the arb to clamp them in.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

 

forces moving the arms linear out / inwards as you describe are rather small,

 

Are you sure, what happens when you are cornering hard at 60mph, i think there will be quite a lot of force in/out on the trailing arms.

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

will remove the main beam seal and use a thrust bearing instead & grease it up. Cornering forces will be very like those without rear traction - mainly down to the force vectors given by the G-forces from cornering vs. friction from the tires. power through the rear wheels is still a forward motion no matter the car is cornering or not.

 

talk aside - its very critical for the successful operation that is works as anticipated but honestly I wont know for sure until tested in practice :-)

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

 

 

 

Are you sure, what happens when you are cornering hard at 60mph, i think there will be quite a lot of force in/out on the trailing arms.

 

Anyway surely the forces are not actually getting much larger due to the 4x4 conversion, so whatever the forces are they should be close to what they are one an orginal car.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

But on the original car the torsion bars locate the arms side to side.

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Ah....now i get it....torsionbars are still present as on the original 205 rear frame - just Not fitted on Any of the pictures.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Will they clear the diff ok??

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Yes luckily they are both placed non interefing with the diff, even at max trailing arm movement

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

After painting final assembly of the rear beam. is commensing slowly. Rideheight is now 10-15mm higher than before - so its stance is better.Fittment of the partner torsion bars is ok,but not perfect, as they are 10mm to long.

 

Also cut and welded the fueltank to use the left over Space for locating the rear exhaust muffler and have even better clearancenow I will be using the larger flanges for the propshaft from the BMW e39

 

 

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Cut the fueltank to leave room for the exhaust back end

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

somehow the Pictures were not uploaded during my last post

 

 

Edited March 10, 2016 by lybker

[X-mo 20 2 Cars]

Wow...love your build!!!

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I'm impressed by the rather speedy progress

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Finalized and fitted modified rear beam and differential - check! :-)

 

 

Edited March 11, 2016 by lybker

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

In preparation to fit the center gearbox to the xu10j4rs engine,I did a trial fitment to evaluate clearance. Basicly it will be a very tight fit!

Conclusion is 2 mounting studs and a square stump protruding from the face towards the sump had to be removed.

 

Another point crossed on my long to-do list, Phew! :-)

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

Looks like a very heavy rear set up? had you not thought about a tubular set up?

[Putte205 4]

Any updates on this?

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Finally I recieved my reinforced parts and got around to assemblig the center diff.

 

so i took apart the subframe to gain better access and removed current gti6 box. This has now been sent of to the machine shop for them to adapt it to the rear diff housing of the center gearbox. Not sure if it has been tried before - gti6 with 4x4 box? Lets see how it Works out :-)

 

Had to trim/shave off some reinforcements on the rear of the engineblok and cut the oilpan as the center diff is a tight fit...

 

I did manage to do a trial fit though:-)

 

 

...good to be back in action, hoping progress and updates will flow steadily from now on and till it runs...fingers crossed :-)

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Nice, what reinforced parts did you get and from where?

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

I got the overhaul kit and reinforced diff housing from atdperformance.com Unfortunatly I could not affort his reinforced shafts, and all my efforts finding alternatives failed, even I had a hold of 5-6 people mainly from Finland :-(

 

so now the plan is to reuse the original shafts, but when assembling the splines to fill them with Locktite 660 spline repair glue. Secondary efforts isincluding downgrading power to the 300bhp range and no slicks. :-(

 

I want to get it up and running, even I could not cash out the +2000 euro for the stronger shafts....

[goce.speedy 3 1 Cars]

Interesting project, i'm doing the opposite of you going from 4wd to rwd using many the same parts for the exact reason, bad transfer box input splines : http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3254-91-405mi16x4-rear-wheel-drive-conversion-north-south-engine/&page=1

[Schumi 2]

Nice build. How did you cut fuel tank and add a part to side?

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

...I marked and cut the tank leaving 15mm next to the fuel level senser to ensure sufficient material to weld without influencing the flange and threading for the sensor. cutting was done usng a normal jigsaw

Then I took the half-part I would like to keep and positioned it 90 degree to the most flat surface best fitting a closing plateI I could find on the discarded part and drewthe outline + 10mm. cut it using same jigsaw

 

then I grinded the surface that will be welded to ensure "fresh" material. Welding is tidius and needs some feel to ensure a strong bond without igniting the plastic. I used a temperature adjustable hot air gun with a 90 degree tip that is closed at the end but holes on both sides ensuring material is melted uniformly when it is sandwiched between the 2 surfaces. once it was smoking alot and very soft, I had a friend assist me, squeezing the material together untill iit was below meltingpoint. speeding this up by blowing cold compressed air.

 

Its actually a bit hard, but I am sure Companies offer this service, maybe it is not that expensive..?

 

...hope it helps - good luck

[Schumi 2]

...I marked and cut the tank leaving 15mm next to the fuel level senser to ensure sufficient material to weld without influencing the flange and threading for the sensor. cutting was done usng a normal jigsaw

Then I took the half-part I would like to keep and positioned it 90 degree to the most flat surface best fitting a closing plateI I could find on the discarded part and drewthe outline + 10mm. cut it using same jigsaw

 

then I grinded the surface that will be welded to ensure "fresh" material. Welding is tidius and needs some feel to ensure a strong bond without igniting the plastic. I used a temperature adjustable hot air gun with a 90 degree tip that is closed at the end but holes on both sides ensuring material is melted uniformly when it is sandwiched between the 2 surfaces. once it was smoking alot and very soft, I had a friend assist me, squeezing the material together untill iit was below meltingpoint. speeding this up by blowing cold compressed air.

 

Its actually a bit hard, but I am sure Companies offer this service, maybe it is not that expensive..?

 

...hope it helps - good luck

Thank you for detailed information. Actually I want to ask how you weld it ? But your instructions very detailed. I need this type fuel tank for my 106. I will try to make one. I hope it will not leak.

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

....after what seems like endless waiting, my gearbox is back. The coverplate of the 4x4 diff housing has been adapted to fit my BE3R6 box, so now there is nothing stopping the assembly process, as my bx 4x4 driveshafts have also arrived. yah! :-)

 

Modified is the alignment of the diff cover and the surface has ben machined so they are aligned, new pinolscrews are installed and bearing now fits the larger 67mm from the old be1 4x4 box.

 

Hopefully updates from now on will follow with less delay

Edited January 9, 2017 by lybker