Rear Brake Locking In Reverse

[Ozymandis 96]

Never had a problem with Mr Auto , its usually eurocrapparts mess me around on deliveries or the worst is GSF.

 

To bleed the brakes use either a pressure bleeder such as Gunsons, or my new favourite way.

Use a large syringe with a piece of pipe to suck the fluid through.

This is the easiest way i found.

The pedal pumping way can give its own problems with less than new master cylinders.

If you want to do it the syringe way let me know and i`ll walk you through it.

Remember to keep the front of the system air free by clamping the hoses, or its new caliper time when the nipples snap, although i have a simple fix that involves a m8 tap and a hex set screw with a copper washer if your game.

 

I often get new parts in open grubby packets, its the way of the world.

Best not be too precious, remember its all fairly crude stuff and not brain surgery lol

 

[dawning 11]

With mr auto it was kind of my fault because I did not fit the drive shaft until a couple of months after I had bought it, don't think its covered by a guarantee at all.

 

I have been meaning to bleed the whole system, have done it on other cars just standard pedal pumping method. I never knew there where any other ways! How does it create problems with the master cylinder?

Interested in your method mate let me know I will have to try and get the screws off the front brakes and see what happens.

 

Yeh I am probably being to precious about it but the bleed screw is dirty as well as dirt on the nipple under the cap, its also only wound in on one side, I could not get the other one to move either. Its not really reassuring me and is just typical I have had so much bad luck trying to buy parts for this car! Local Peugeot place has been spot on every time however, shame they hardly seem to have anything for 205's left.

Edited February 17, 2016 by dawning

[Ozymandis 96]

The front calipers are aluminium castings, with an m7 steel bleed nipple.

Dissimilar metal electrolytic corrosion locks them together.

The nipples basically a thin wall tube with a thread on the outside, they snap very easily.

If you want to have a go, a good sharp STRAIGHT on, tap with a hammer before trying,if your v lucky this occasionally shocks em loose.

Dont bother with a blowlamp, but oxy acet to get em red hot quick can help.

 

The worlds full of alloy calipers with snapped nipples.

 

Also sometimes the thread in the alloys turned to dust and cant be re-tightened.

 

To repair if (when) they snap

Have you a drill?

If so drill em a bit bigger, its soft as s*it, then tap m8.

A few strokes with a file to get a reasonable sealing face.

Get a short mild steel hex head set screw and cut it down to fit, i drill a 1/16hole down the middle and one from the side near the top to give a fluid passage,

then get a copper washer and Bobs your sealed up nipple hole.

Back it off to bleed with pressure from the master cylinder end (gunsons eezibleed)

Sounds a pita but is easy if you have access to a tap a couple of drill bits a hacksaw a vice and a file.

No jigs , squares or measurement needed all by `rack ot t`heen`

Alternatively exchange calipers are available.

 

Bleeding with the pedal on an old master cylinder can cause the master cylinder to fail soon after.

This is the unnatural extra movement of the piston seals going over a wear or corrosion ridge in the bore of the cylinder.

 

Realistically if you want to bleed the fronts they may very probably snap .

If they do, they dont usually leak so if you clamped the rear flexis, just bleed the backs and your good to go again.

 

Keep us posted and good luck.

 

 

 

 

[dawning 11]

When you say straight on do you mean on top of the nipple with a hammer rather than hitting the spanner? I have got a drill and a tapping kit somewhere so a fix could be possible, I probably never have thought of doing that!

Makes sense about the master cylinder.

Thanks again for your help, I will let you know how I get on hopefully do it on sunday if its not raining.

[Ozymandis 96]

When you say straight on do you mean on top of the nipple

Yes think of it as a nail and smack it in a sharp tap.

This works if things are not too corroded.

 

If they do come out with your Midas touch,when you put them back in, wind plumbers ptfe tape round.

Not to seal them in any way but to put an impermeable barrier between the two metals.

To be frank i think you may be snapping them unless they have been done within "living memory"

[welshpug 1,655]

ptfe tape wont put a barrier there, the threads will cut through it, all it does is seal any imperfections in the thread, typically at the root.

 

if you do decide to drill the nipples out make sure you dont go further than the base of the thread, or you'll damage the sealing face

[Ozymandis 96]

 

ptfe tape wont put a barrier there, the threads will cut through it, all it does is seal any imperfections in the thread, typically at the root

 

Respectfully Welshpug ,I have nipples we did this to over 20 yrs ago,( sounds perverted ) they haven't seized again.

My understanding is the ptfe is antagonistic to water and you don't need to cover the entire contact area of the threads, the action of water and dissolved ions in electrolytic corrosion is prevented.

We tried stainless nipples but they still seize.

I used brass on some kit cars ,but have to wait a few years to see if it makes any difference lol

 

 

 

 

if you do decide to drill the nipples out make sure you dont go further than the base of the thread, or you'll damage the sealing face

You misunderstand , we are sealing with a copper washer and a hex head setscrew on the outside of the caliper,like a sump plug and washer arrangement this works fine and you can drill away to your hearts content without worrying about the sealing taper.(i did once drill right through into an alloy piston when i wasn't paying attention ) I will get under a car and take a pic of how it works this eve. There are 2 205`s outside here with this very bodge

This has been a common bodge on alloy calipers since the 1970`s when i was shown how..

When you pressure bleed the fluid just trickles down the caliper as you have no nipple for a pipe.

Yes he could just get new calipers but im trying to save the lad a few bob.

Anyway he MAY get them to unscrew

[welshpug 1,655]

I'd rather not bodge!

[dawning 11]

Thanks, all makes sense to me now I think. When they get re manufactured do they drill then sleeve it and just put a new nipple in? Could be a fairly cheap fix if I can find a local garage or engineering place to do it.

[Ozymandis 96]

Thanks, all makes sense to me now I think. When they get re manufactured do they drill then sleeve it and just put a new nipple in? Could be a fairly cheap fix if I can find a local garage or engineering place to do it.

If your paying current labour rates it may be cheaper to get recon calipers, i think they are 50 quidish.

We have recon ones where they drilled and tapped and then loctite in a custom bush with the nipple thread and seat machined into that, like you suggested.

Sometimes the pipe inlet threads are ruined and they use a bush again. I think they are Brake Engineering brand ones.

 

I'd rather not bodge!

lots of poor people just trying to stay mobile, we had to cater for them, not the affluent playing with toys like we do.

I like to do a good job too WelshPug.