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jimmi

Standard Flywheel And Crank Front Pulley Query

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jimmi

Anyone know how many teeth are on ring-gear of a standard D6B flywheel - also what is diameter of a standard solid D6B pulley ? -- I need to put a 20' btdc mark onto both for easy reference when checking Distributor alignment via Emerald ECU lock-up software

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welshpug

you have emerald and a dizzy?!

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jimmi

you have emerald and a dizzy?!

Yes Welshpug- a 'hall' effect dizzy with emerald M3D ( 1st generation from circa 1995).The ECU gets it's ignition signal from the dizzy ( no crank sensor ). I already have true tdc marked on crank pulley and flywheel. ECU set-up includes TPS alignment and Dizzy alignment - To check dizzy alignment the software locks timing at 20' regardless of RPM - adjust dizzy to get same reading with a timing light -or use difference as an offset when mapping the ignition. Obviously to make mapping easier best that dizzy is aligned with zero offset

Edited by jimmi

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welshpug

id personally get shot of the dizzy, fit a flywheel with timing teeth and a standard crank sensor, a later wasted spark coil and some zx 1.9 plug leads.

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petert

You can do it with a dizzy. Just make sure you get the rotor phasing correct. I prefer the Motronic flywheel and coil pack. Is the timing lock only at 20 deg.? If so, I'd set the idle tables to 10 deg and use the factory mark on the wheel.

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jimmi

id personally get shot of the dizzy, fit a flywheel with timing teeth and a standard crank sensor, a later wasted spark coil and some zx 1.9 plug leads.

I'm running a BE1 box - no manufacturer timing marks on bell-housing . Is there a specific car/model from which i could source such a flywheel and crank sensor ?

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jimmi

You can do it with a dizzy. Just make sure you get the rotor phasing correct. I prefer the Motronic flywheel and coil pack. Is the timing lock only at 20 deg.? If so, I'd set the idle tables to 10 deg and use the factory mark on the wheel.

Petert what you mean by rotor phasing correct ? and what would you suggest the 'start up' timing should be ?

 

I can lock up timing at 20' only - via alignment option in the ECU software - purely to align distributor . I can also adjust/set the 'start up timing' -once engine hits 500 rpm - the Ecu reverts to the main ignition / injection maps. RPM sites are every 500 on map and with seven 'load'sites. looking to have marks on flywheel and crank pulley for ease of reference when required.

I should have mentioned that I have the engine up and running - starts grand, ticks over and revs etc when warm but difficult to start when cold... once I'm 100 % sure dizzy is aligned I can experiment with the 'cold start enrichment' function in the mapping

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welshpug

depends how early your be1 box is, mine has a crank sensor hole.

 

you can use a flywheel from any later xu engine like a 1.6 405, any 1.8 and motronic 1.9 's, a retain your 200mm clutch.

 

or a 1.9 mi or any xu10 215mm flywheel and a 1.9 mi16 clutch.

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welshpug

if there isnt a hole in your gearbox for a sensor you can make one quite easily and the ecu can be set to suit

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petert

Petert what you mean by rotor phasing correct ?

 

In a standard 205 dizzy, the low tension pulse is created close to the high tension pulse. ie the spark doesn't have to travel far from the rotor button to the posts. If you used a std dizzy with an aftermarket ECU, you would have to fire the low tension pulse at 45-50 deg BTDC minimum, in order for enough time for the ECU to process say a 38 deg. BTDC maximum spark event, ie at low load, cruise RPM.

 

The rotor button would now be at least 25 degs before the correct post, meaning a very large gap to pull across.

 

If you've replaced the original internals with a hall effect unit, just make sure you get the angle correct. It will do your head in.

 

Far easier to use a Motronic flywheel and late model coil pack.

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jimmi

 

In a standard 205 dizzy, the low tension pulse is created close to the high tension pulse. ie the spark doesn't have to travel far from the rotor button to the posts. If you used a std dizzy with an aftermarket ECU, you would have to fire the low tension pulse at 45-50 deg BTDC minimum, in order for enough time for the ECU to process say a 38 deg. BTDC maximum spark event, ie at low load, cruise RPM.

 

The rotor button would now be at least 25 degs before the correct post, meaning a very large gap to pull across.

 

If you've replaced the original internals with a hall effect unit, just make sure you get the angle correct. It will do your head in.

 

Far easier to use a Motronic flywheel and late model coil pack.

Petert, Thanks for that advice

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