Malc 45 Posted January 30, 2016 Just looking for advise and options, I'm fully aware that suspension settings are down to personal opinions etc etc, but as I'm building a track based car I Would like to know what Would be the best set up. Currently I have Group N Billies with Ebas springs and 309 bones, however camber and castor being the main concerns, I'm thinking get the camber sorted with hubs from bridgecraft at 3 deg rather then top mounts as I feel this would be a better option. However castor? How do I sort this with out resorting to coil overs, or am I better to just go for coilovers with adjustable top mounts, if so which? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanallen 528 2 Cars Posted January 31, 2016 No easy option to be honest.... Coilovers and top mounts is the obvious off the shelf option, beyond that you're looking at repositioning wishbone pivot points or custom wishbones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
parry 23 1 Cars Posted January 31, 2016 It also depends on what tyre you run and what camber it likes. I run Khumo slicks and 4deg neg is what is best. To get the 4deg a lot of mods were made! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodymi16 24 2 Cars Posted January 31, 2016 Depends how deep your pockets are, http://www.satchellengineering.co.uk/suspension-and-steering/205-front-suspension-kit.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malc 45 Posted January 31, 2016 No that deep! Need to have a think about this, plenty to be getting on with at the moment, so will do a bit more research. It seems coil overs and adjustable top mounts would be the easiest option. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 578 Posted February 1, 2016 In my experience camber is relatively cheap but caster costs money. I'd start with adjustable top mounts, as the postive caster will give you camber. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malc 45 Posted February 4, 2016 Been offered a set of Compbrake wishbones at a decent price, however read a few reports on here (older reports mind you) and they really don't seem to get a good write up. Not keen on removing my front ARB, however keen for feedback on this for a track car. Is it worth going for these compbrakes? Or look to modify a set of standard wishbones? I have a spare set of 205 bones that I could look to modifying, again any advise here would be great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,646 Posted February 4, 2016 I'd go with modified standard bones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malc 45 Posted February 4, 2016 Thanks, seems the best option, surprised when I read all the poor reviews, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ftoomsh 5 1 Cars Posted February 4, 2016 309 bones and shafts! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allanallen 528 2 Cars Posted February 5, 2016 Thanks, seems the best option, surprised when I read all the poor reviews, Not sure what surprised you, the design and material are terrible! There's no new reviews on them as no bugger is daft enough to buy them anymore! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malc 45 Posted February 6, 2016 I know, it's shocking that companies get away with selling poor quality products, good job I had a proper read up on these before wasting money. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mac Crash 78 1 Cars Posted February 6, 2016 I'd start with adjustable top mounts, as the postive caster will give you camber. Peter, how does that work? I mean, how will fore or aft movement of the strut achieve camber? 309 bones and shafts! Old solution but non adjustable, only gives minimal increase, then you are back to square one when the balljoint is worn... I know, it's shocking that companies get away with selling poor quality products, good job I had a proper read up on these before wasting money. http://www.gartrac.com/ The RJ wishbones I have came from these guys, plenty other sources of them including on here but likely to be no warranty due to nature of use, est* £300 - £400 which doesn't really seem much when they will give you uncompromised steering geometry. The comp brake items look and sound the part but as already said by the experts, don't buy, not sure why you would need inboard/inner rose joints anyway? there will be no discernible movement here with good bushes which are much cheaper than rosejoints, the whole point of rose jointed bottom arms is to eliminate the balljoint onto the hub and replace it with something much stronger and better... as far as I can understand anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,536 Posted February 6, 2016 Peter, how does that work? I mean, how will fore or aft movement of the strut achieve camber? Peter probably missed out typing "on turn" at the end of his post. Best example is older Mercs, they run lots of caster, if you've ever seen one lock the wheels over to full lock, the "outside" wheel leans in quite noticeably hence giving a fair camber increase on turning. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mac Crash 78 1 Cars Posted February 6, 2016 Ah so... understood, and so negative castor (not that you'd want this) will introduce positive camber when turning? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
