Grey 205 (Evolving) Tarmac Rally Car Project

[And 15 1 Cars]

Yes there is a tool that opens and closes them, but you can get away with tile nibblers or side cutters the 90 deg ones also I have the tool at work but at home I just use the tile nibblers or the ones for CV boot bands if they fit in.

[alync406 4]

Here is the sort of tool you use for them hose clips http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/3397

Looks like the cars coming on well

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Search for "clic clip pliers"

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

now I know the difference between O'clips & R'clips, sometimes you need to see things in front of you, I know the pliers I need now... thank you...

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Wee bit more progress over the weekend, a perfectly good and new Sealey 180 Mig with fresh gas standing in the workshop doing nothing... so after watching a few tutorials on you tube I decided to have a go at welding in the spreader plates for the roll cage, I mean, how hard can it be? some hours later after practice on an old car panel and I was prepared... definitely a learning curve, wire speed, amps, popping holes, paint, underseal on fire etc... but I get it and slowly the welding got better. You can hear when the weld is right... appreciate that I am no welder though and there is much, much more to it, but I'm happy with the penetration and confident the welding will hold up, might have went a wee bit overboard trying to build up weld and correct my efforts... but at least the job is now done and I have a better understanding of welding... I found having an inspection light pointing directly onto the area getting welded allowed me to see the welding process better... visor was clear type... so all in all, not too bad I think.

 

 

Looks acceptable after grinding back and a coat of Hammerite black Hammer finish, best I could find in Halfords on a Sunday, forgot to photo, all mounts now done, painted inside and outside... will bolt up and underseal with waxoyl to finish... Allan, you were right, all near side legs of the cage are stamped with C12 and serial number, so presume SD have added this for original customer. Lower legs of cage will get finished with satin black paint to tidy it up as they are covered in white overspray from previous car.

 

Job done and I can now look for new seats and belts... next job, existing beam off, clean up floor, fit new beam and refit fuel tank.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Further work done this weekend after holidays and too much time spent at work... with the lighter nights and general feel better moods this brings, hoping to get much more done before summer and ready for competition.

 

Parts of Saturday were spent dismantling & removing the 1.6 running gear from the front end (needed as will replace with bigger 1.9 stuff) and to allow access to the differential to replace the standard open diff with a new Quaiffe torque bias differential. First time I have removed the o/s driveshaft from a GTi so the hockey sticks now make sense to me, thanks to the guide for this on the front page. Thanks also to WP for confirming to me ages ago that diff's can be changed with gearbox in-situ.

 

Parts of Sunday continued with...

 

Diff casing and differential came apart and off the car easily enough... but for a moment had my doubts due to clearance from the subframe, remedied by levering the bottom engine mount away from the fork and towards the front panel of the car.

 

Note: couldn't get access to the drain-plug on the diff housing with a square bit because of the subframe and so drained the gearbox oil into soup cans from the driveshaft holes until I realised a 20mm spanner will fit the diff plug.

 

Standard diff on bench, separated from crownwheel.

 

Quaiffe fitted with new bearings and offered into casing, not Timken roller bearings as standard diff came with but quality looks okay and feels good as far as I can tell. Used thread lock on the diff bolts and torqued up (just nipped tight) with very long breaker bar.

 

There is a considerable difference in weight between the 2 diffs, the Quiaffe being a good bit heavier.

 

Long hours at work, partial loss of memory and I was doubting which way the crownwheel was fitted... was 90% sure the bolts went in on the face stamped with the crownwheel/pinion ratio...

 

But... stripped a spare box just to be sure...

 

Also because I was curious about ratio's as the car has a short ratio box... the spare being 16 x 65... and the current ratio being 14 x 62

 

My method for achieving clearance to refit the diff to the car, my left arm being as weak as a kitten and my co-driver not answering the phone.

 

New diff now in and 309 GTi driveshafts fitted. To build back with Bilstein coilsprings & 1.9 hubs/brakes during the week hopefully.

 

Notes to myself: Remember fresh gearbox OIL !!!! and to send rosejoints to Allan.

 

Regarding the 14 x 62 crownwheel & pinion ratio... is this the reason the car has such short legs compared to the 16 x 65 from the spare gearbox? and is this the latter the standard ratio for a 1.6?

[welshpug 1,657]

14x62 is 4.42 so an mi16 or similar fd, depends which gearset is fitted too.

 

16x65 is 4.06

Edited April 24, 2016 by welshpug

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Ah, divide the numbers to get the final ratio, understood... no idea which gearset is fitted though.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Mac, increase the action a fraction!

This car was nearly finished when I seen it 4 months ago!

 

Why did you opt for an ATB rather than a plated diff?

 

Your prob better renewing your driveshaft seals whilst your at it btw, £10 from ebay.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

have spent time gathering parts, changing cages, swapping running gear etc, trying to upgrade everything I can (within reason) as near as possible to old Group A spec... but yes, working on it when I can... she is not as sympathetic as yours ;-)

 

Went for the ATB as I already had one for the road car and was given a new one with the car I sold to Malc... so using what I have, agreed an LSD is the best choice for a competition car but the ATB shouldn't be put down or dismissed as wholly inferior, it's a good upgrade over a standard open diff and perfect for Tarmac.... really helps under braking loads too, maintenance free and definitely more civilised... saying that though, if I'd had an LSD available I would of course be using it)))

 

Driveshaft seals were renewed recently when gearbox was rebuilt and weren't leaking.

 

Feel free to swing by and give me a hand

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Bought new exhaust manifold studs with copper nuts from Pug Racing, expensive but hopefully justified for the future...

 

Monday holiday, and so 1.9 running gear laid out for assembly onto car.

 

On the way into the workshop I was approached by a neighbour looking for some survey work he wants done as a homer, turns out he used to rally a 205 himself... sometime later and he presents me with a dummy shock that his wife wanted to throw out... (perfect as building the new beam up is the next job) needless to say, new friends made ;-)

 

Sometimes you doubt yourself, but a quick check and comparison of 205 wishbones vs 309 ones... not much difference, but I guess you wouldn't expect there to be, so I'm 99% sure they are of 309 origin.

Temporary on the car to allow the front end back on the road wheels until I have drop pins made up for the rose jointed arms, thanks Allen, will be with you later this week.

 

PTS bilsteins (gravel/forest spec) fitted with rose jointed top mounts...

Wasn't entirely sure if I should have fitted them to ignore any camber gains as opposed to castor, as camber extent can easily be achieved through the RJ bottom arms... easy enough to turn them around though, might be missing something but from the eccentric position of the strut top it looks like caster or camber can be had but not both? near side photo above and off the car below.

 

These are the PTS studs extending quite a bit, correct nuts with flat rotating washers, I presume the wheels locate just on the studs and that there is no sleeves required?

Car is rolling again, front end feels very stiff compared to standard springs and can't be compressed when pushing down on the wings... the rear, well, breathe on it or look at it the wrong way and you can see it move around, had no idea before they were so soft at the back, no wonder they want to kill you all the time.

 

Next job is existing beam off and new one on.... plans are to refurbish the beam coming off with 20mm gravel bars and bigger ARB for the 1.9 road car which badly needs an overhaul...

Edited May 2, 2016 by Mac Crash

[welshpug 1,657]

wheels locate on the spigot.

 

top mounts only designed add castor by the look of it, you align the holes with those in the shell.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

On the spigot... I checked that just to make sure but still asked... what a daftie ;-))

 

The strut angles are showing negative, but I guess the standard ones do as well, I'll wait until the RJ wishbones are on then turn the top mounts round for castor.

 

Cheers min...

[Anthony 1,003]

Sometimes you doubt yourself, but a quick check and comparison of 205 wishbones vs 309 ones... not much difference, but I guess you wouldn't expect there to be, so I'm 99% sure they are of 309 origin.

The easiest way to ID them at a glance is that 205 wishbones have "ribs" in the casting whereas 309 wishbones don't, so yes, that's a 205 and 309 wishbone that you've got there. Difference is only about 10mm from memory, so not huge but certainly noticeable when fitted.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Fitted 4 branch Magnex exhaust manifold with new studs...

 

Not 100% sure if the gaskets should be fitted with the firing ring mating against the manifold and the smooth face against the head? This is how I have done it.

The gaskets line up correctly with the ports, i.e. no restriction to flow, just not sure if they are the right way round or not. New nuts haven't been torqued up yet so can remove and refit if needed.

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

Just for future reference, 106 gti head studs fit the inlet and exhaust, theres aftermarket ones on a popular auction site for about £8 a set and have allen insets so easy to fit

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Standard beam removed and set aside from the car today.

Crusty and condition unknown, hopefully if tube is okay then will be rebuilt for the 1.9 road car.

Floor inspection and all good, i.e. no holes - descale, paint and underseal to follow...

Removed the brackets on the shell that support the rear brake flexi-hoses, plan is to retain rear drums and use Tilton brake bias lever from previous 205... we can then discard the 1.6 Gti compensator from the nearside inner wing and run continuous braided brake lines inside the car to the rear brakes...

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Strip down of 1.6 beam for inspection...

nearly everything on this beam was a battle to get it apart. Judging by the external encrustation, I don't think it has been apart before... the presence of factory wax/grease on the internals seems to back this up... 90,000 miles, so for me it looks like it should.

 

Both outer faces on the radius arm shafts have wear and are pitted with bearing marks...

 

a shame, as both inner faces are as new, no visible marks at all...

 

From this I am confident the cross tube is fine, it looks very clean and the ARB removed looks like new, so there has been no ingress of dirt or water.

I'll renovate this beam for the 1.9 road car which desperately needs it now.

 

Apart from one stubborn torsion bar which needed heat from a plumbers torch to knock out... the only problems during dismantling were the torsion bar studs, both of these broke off at the screw slot after loosening the locking nuts. On the opposite end of each bar, the little torx bolts securing the offset washer both rounded off, so were drilled out leaving the screw in the torsion bar... the screw heads had been exposed to the elements for a long time and I knew just by looking at them that they weren't coming out with a torx bit... not that it matters, the 19mm bars are of no use to me anyway. The torx screws will be replaced with hex screws instead.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Slowly trying to spend less time at work and thinking more about this car as I can hear Dobboy muttering why it isn't on the road yet...

 

Tiny bit forward... removed the 1.6 compensation valve from the car...

then discarded the rear brake lines from the master cylinder to the drums.

 

This is the set-up for the rear brakes... running inside the car.

 

Bias lever fitted next to gear lever, hopefully not deliberate mistake as I have no seats yet to test if I can reach it while strapped in...

 

Torsion bars and ARB etch primed and painted, finally...

 

Beam parts laid out and ready for assembly onto car, I'm sure I have everything now but a spare set of hands would be... handy...

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I'm saying nothing

 

you sure you don't work for the council?

 

Nice bars!

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Okay, beam issues sorted and correctly assembled, thanks to WP for pointers...

Logical to have a quick look at the floor before putting the beam and fuel tanks back on. Overall very good except from a small hole and some thin metal, symmetric on either side, the gusset part next to the inner sills and normally hidden by the fuel tank.

Repaired through welding in some new steel... then onto sprucing up a bit....

The floor as it was...

Originally intentions were just to scrape back and tidy up the flaking areas and surface rust on the underneath then use zinc based primer and stonechip... anyone (and there will be many here) who have started this job will know what a labour intensive, mind numbing and slow job this is if it is to be done right, the lazer green and miami floors you see on here are stunning... the effort must surely be worth it.... my excuse is that this is a rally car, that the floor isn't really that bad after 26 years and that the time will be best spent on the mechanics of the car... suitably convinced I tided up the areas as best I could then applied zinc based primer, I had stonechip to hand but my instinct told me that wax-oyl based underseal applied by brush would offer better protection.

The floor as it is now...

Think I have lost or misplaced one of these while setting aside parts of the rear brakes/hubs...

It came off the rear brakes hubs when dismantling... anyone?

[JamPug 22]

Looks great Mac ! I have to do a similar job to you of sealing up the back end, out of interest approximately how long did it take you to cut it all back and stonechip it all ?

[And 15 1 Cars]

I would have gone a lighter colour to help see under there when serivicing in a rush, stone chip is a thing of the past as needs painting over best is u-pol raptor it's a 2k comes in black or clear that can be tinted.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

James, not long, done over a few days on a ramp with good access, using a large flat bladed screwdriver, drill attachments and an angle grinder, be prepared to find holes though the more you delve... think this shell has been sealed with an epoxy resin type material before, maybe why it has held up so well, not sure what Peugeot used apart from seal sealer... it looks okay, would like to have had the time to really do it right, anything is better than doing nothing at all, tank and beam are off so best opportunity to seal it all up, even if just for a year or two...

 

Andy, I agree, anything from u-pol is good... I'd thought about a resin type coating... bought u-pol stonechip... then thought, nah... best thing you can put on rusty metal is oil based... if I'd known about raptor I'd have probably went down that road, for sure next time... white then? ;-)

Edited September 7, 2016 by Mac Crash

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Beam on...

 

Brakes next...

 

This arrived from the MSA, didn't buy or order one though?

 

Any one else receive one?