Anti Roll Bar End Plates

[dawning 11]

On my 205 xs I recently replaced anti- roll bar bushes and lower suspension arms (non gti type) I have tightened the bolts onto the end of the anti roll bar but the plate that sits on the outside is not flush with the bush as in the haynes manual pic, its quite clearly at an angle.

 

Does anyone have any insight into this? I can take a photo if that helps.

[welshpug 1,646]

rear beam bearings are shot by the sound of it, but a picture will help.

[dawning 11]

Hi welshpug, thank you, thats very helpfull! I will get a pic up.

When I got the tracking done after I did the work he said he wasn't happy with the back wheels they seemed to far out. Car still not handleing 100% so need to look at the rear beam. Also Hearing some kind of slaping sound which I though was to do with arb but kind of sounds like its coming from the back now.

[dawning 11]

Having trouble with the pictures

[dawning 11]

I can't seem to upload pics, but after having a look today one side seems to have gone straight and the other is still a bit wonky.

The other thing when I got my suspension arms from a peugeot parts place they said where genuine pug however when they arrived one was clearly different from the original and this is the one that is not lining up..

I have been meaning to speak to them about this, wish I got from official dealer.

Edited December 17, 2015 by dawning

[Ozymandis 96]

rear beam bearings are shot by the sound of it, but a picture will help.

Respectfuly Welsh Pug, he is talking about the front suspension on a base model TCA setup

 

On my 205 xs I recently replaced anti- roll bar bushes and lower suspension arms (non gti type) I have tightened the bolts onto the end of the anti roll bar but the plate that sits on the outside is not flush with the bush as in the haynes manual pic, its quite clearly at an angle.

 

Does anyone have any insight into this? I can take a photo if that helps.

The (plates)large washer with the 18mm af big nut that fits on the end of the anti roll bar you mean?

 

These should be at an angle to the bush, ie not an even gap all round.

As the suspension goes up and down they go through a curve and that gap moves from bottom to top and so on.

Dont tighten that nut up , or the inner pivot bolt nut, without weight on.

 

Stand the wheels on a spare wheel/jack/wood/ramps/kerb etc. slacken them give it a bounce and retighten.

If you dont the rubber bushes are permanently under tension and dont work properly, then fail quickly.

 

Most aftermarket arms use anti roll bar bushes that are s*ite to start with.

Get genuine bushes in em.

 

Theres a complete bush kit from Peugeot or Citroen (c15 van) has every bush nut and bolt, not expensive.

Or get the lemforder branded anti roll bar (mushroom) bushes from eurocrap parts they are cheap.

Need hammer chisel and vice to fit , no great skill.

Not in Ocap branded arms though. they are bored a bit oversize and the bushes are too lose.

 

Slapping sound at back, check spare wheel? Exhaust?

 

Failing rear beams do make noises, but not what i`d call slapping.

Try pictures again?

[dawning 11]

Hi Ozymandis, thanks a lot for your reply its very helpful.

 

Yes I am talking about the base model setup, and the nut that goes onto the end of the arb on top of the big washer.

 

Im not 100% clear on what you mean about standing the wheels on jack, but I did put it all back together and tighten it all up with the front end off the ground including the anti roll bar mount brackets, so sounds light I need to re do it. I bought new nyloc nuts for these bolts today anyway so was going to do that anyway.

 

I have replaced the arb bushes with the correct peugeot 22mm ones. I need to speak to the guy at peugeot parts .co.uk about the arms as he told me they where genuine when one was a different design, I have already fitted to the car so I don't know where that leaves me I should have sent it back.

 

Still no luck with the pictures its crashes my browser on advanced and dont work on basic, im on linux maybe thats why.

Edited December 18, 2015 by dawning

[Ozymandis 96]

Ok, what i mean is , you have to have the weight of the car on the suspension.

Then it assumes its natural resting position before you tighten the pivot nut and bolt also the nut on the end of the roll bar.

 

If you leave the wheel off put a jack under the bottom ball joint and lift it so the side your doing comes up off your axle stand, then tighten the two relavent fixings.

 

Alternativly put the wheels on and lower them onto something so you can actually reach under to tighten the fixings. wood/stand/wheels/kerb WHY

 

As to the arms , i have had Lemforder, TRW, Frap and Ocap branded ones in genuine peugeot boxes, it depends on who was cheapest at the time i assume.

The Ocap are best left on the shelf.

Try and find motaquip they are part of peugeot citroen and have the same brands in the boxes a bit cheaper.

 

In my experience the best are black painted old type Lemforder, rather than the current unpainted Lemforder ones.

What is important is the actual rubber bushes,hopefully you want the word KLEBER moulded in to them.

Dont despair with what you have,if they fail the bush kits cheap and a hammer/vice job gives you KLEBER everywhere.

 

One final thing, the uneven gaps around the washer can be caused by the actual roll bar being shunted across a bit. Usualy from kerbing.

Get under and put your little finger in the gap between the roll bar and the subframe just by the crank in the bar.

The gaps should be even.

If not slacken the clamp and rod arangement and Whack it across a bit with a BFH. doesnt need to be mm perfect.

Ignore all the rubbish in the Haynes manual about the lenght of this setup its wrong.

 

Hope thats some use to you.

 

 

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

It might be worth just checking behind the bush, that you have the same washers on both sides, There should be a little washer type thing that's the same width as the anti-roll-bar behind the bush, these can sometimes fall off whilst removing the old arm, and could leave slack when the new arm is put on.

 

I've also come across vast 'tolerances' in arm dimensions between different arm brands. as much as 10mm difference in total length, leaving different camber on either side of the car. So if you have the option, I would speak to the seller to see if they can swap the odd one for a matching one

[dawning 11]

Ozymandis I get what you mean now about tightening everything up.

I haven't looked at the bushes on the arms, didn't see any obvious brand. One of them looks like the trw one on mr auto and tho other looks like the original which look like the lemforder one on mr auto.

Thanks for explaining, very useful info.

I didn't tighten the arb mount clamps before I attached the suspension arms and hubs because I forgot, but it couldn't see it move so just put it back together, and yeh I just ignored the haynes manual at that point haha, but will check as you describe. Cheers mate.

 

johnnyboy666 I do have the correct washer and spacer on each side of the arm. With the arms I was concerned that they may not be an exact match however I had no proof, I will have to contact the seller and get a matching pair sorted. Don't like them not matching anyway! Thanks for your help.