Best Suspension Setup For Max Grip

[petert 585]

Yes, way off. There's no point increasing the front OEM spring rate until you go bigger than 19mm bars on the rear. They are the limiting factor. Definitely change the diff.

Edited December 6, 2015 by petert

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

250-300lb is way too stiff for your rear bars.

[camgti 56]

As above just to make sure the message is coming across loud and clear.

 

Get bigger torsion bars! At least 21mm even as high as 23mm although thats about max for the road.

 

That way you can come down in spring on the front to 285lbs and retain your dampers.

 

Cam

Btw, whats the spec of the engine? If its a lag monster its always going to be hard to control wheelspin!

 

Sounds like a weapon though!!

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

...problem is, it will, once on boost loose traction even at 130mph in 5th gear....would limit all gears then :-)

 

Part of this issue as rightfully mentioned must be down to a poor balanced setup. My first choice is to try improve this and see how far that will solve my problem.

 

At any time it is possible to reduce boost, but should really be the last resort ;-)

 

You could also only reduce the boost at the point were it kicks in. If you tune it to have flat/increasing constant torque graph, it will be much more predictable, easier to control and while keeping the high end power.

[dcc 855]

Wasnt there a guy on here with a twin boosted 900+bhp engine which had progressive boost, im sure he said he never wheelspun. Either way anything over 350ish bhp is not sensible and I highly doubt the driveline will survive. What use is this to you? Well while youre trying to fix your broken (insert driveline related part) the well built progressively mapped boosted cars will be out on track.

 

Asking on this forum for help is going to be very restricted. No offence to most, but fenton is the only man with any real experience of high power small chassis cars (from what I can gather over my x years on here) with his team built mini drag car.

 

Im not so sure youre running such high power, you're using a quaiffe, which indicated a be box, which will s*it themselves at any sort of torque figure over 300ftlb, especially considering standard shafts, hubs and cv's.

 

Have you stiffened the chassis anywhere? Personally id be tempted to go for a turreted rear end if you can in your class, maybe even run 4wd.

 

My old evo was running 440bhp 420ftlb, just 1.8bar, it never spun a wheel in the dry, and only if you were launching it in the wet. Mapped well and with progressive boost control. 4wd is essential really when over 300bhp I would say.

 

Paul is building a boosted gti6 motor which will run 405x4 driveline. Linear curve rather than boost spike

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Hi Dan

 

All makes sence, and yes maybe the gearbox will eventually give way. But i did run 3 full racing seasons with 330ftlb of torque...using same BE gearbox and drivetrain. Hubs are fine and driveshaft are from an hdi. So i guess theory is strong to a certain point. There will allways be a butthead that can kill any gearbox just by using 120hp and 150ftlb.

 

Now it will only do trackdays and hence torque is in the 400ftlb range. when it finally explodes, i will roll it onto the trailer, drive home and enjoy the evening. No doubt it will be fun up untill that point :-)

 

Agree rwd /awd would be a good solution, but currently not an option

[lybker 26 2 Cars]

Verification of boost spool up & pickup between gears (link please copy & paste)

 

 

 

 

Kindly bear with me....the constant hammering on the limiter was to confirm the adjustment of the hard fuel cut to ensure it was as

Planned, so not just due to lunacy :-)

 

When noting the boost pressure please mind the ext wg had issues and loost boost at high rpm, resulting in a similar loss of power

This is since then fixed and graph is linear again and on the right side of the 500...