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Andy205

Gti6 Oil Starvation Problems?

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Andy205

Hi guys, decided to put my old 205 back on the road as the mid engined Dimma is likely to be a few more years yet.

 

Picked up a cheap GTI6 last week with a bottom end knock. Engines out and stripped now. Crank and rods look ok. Mains look ok. Just No4 big end bearing is goosed!

 

When stripping the bottom end,the oil pump drive sprocket has been spinning on the crank. There's no key to lock it to the crank, I assume the torque on the front pulley must be enough to hold it.

 

Has anyone seen this before?

 

Also, any recommendations for rebuild bits? Bearings, rings, gaskets sets etc.

 

Thanks

Andy

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Tom Fenton

Make sure you either measure yourself or have the rod big end size checked by the machine shop. Its not uncommon if its been knocking badly for the rod housing to be oversize. If it is and you don't correct it, it will likely knock again soon after rebuild. Same goes for the crank journal, make sure you measure it or have it measured.

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welshpug

that's normal indeed, same as most 8v XU engines, not a problem as long as the crank pulley bolt is done up.

 

These engines aren't as prone to starvation as the MI16, probably a better head design and other details, but still as prone as any other wet sump engine to oil surge despite the baffling.

 

 

standard o.e bearings aren't too badly priced though rings are expensive, there are aftermarket rings you can get, I used an S16 kit but had the top ring swapped for a Vauxhall XE as it was narrower, o.e HG is the one to go for, on quality and price.

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Paul_13

The later gti6 oil pump sprocket is keyed to the crank

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Andy205

Funny that, just measured the problem crank and rod against 1-3 and it's definitely over round. About 0.3-0.4mm on both. I'll measure the main.

 

Thanks.

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Andy205

Bad news from the machine shop.

 

The cranks bent near No4 con rod! Does anyone have a 6 crank laying around?

 

Or... is it expensive to go down the route of a 2.1 conversion? Seems to be quite a big combination of cranks, rods and pistons when I read different threads.

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welshpug

2.1 indeed means pistons and rods required, xu10 cranks are ten a penny so if your block isnt worn then just get a crank, the only xu10 that differs is the 405 t16.

 

if the block is a bit worn and you want to stay at 86 mm its new engine time.

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Andy205

Cheers, I'll keep an eyeball out for a crank then.

 

Machine shop said they'll repair the con rod and polish a second hand crank for £50, bargain. They'll lighten and balance it for not much money either.

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