Xu10J4R (Xsi) Conversion Questions

[welshpug 1,657]

cool setup, I did a fairly similar one years ago with an S16 mount, much better I think than a timing belt tensioner.

[steve@cornwall 100]

So next up is the diff.....both removed and cti one doesn't fit straight in. I guess I have to change ring gear over ??

[welshpug 1,657]

yup.

 

crack all the bolts off first, before winding them out, otherwise you will damage the threads, clean the oil off and threadlock when re-fitting.

[RossD 44]

The ring gear must match the pinion gear in the gearbox, so you will need to remove the ring gear from the diff from the box you are going to us and attach it to the diff you are going to install in that gearbox.

Edited September 30, 2016 by RossD

[steve@cornwall 100]

Thanks guys......off to get some threadlock. (Wish my tablet didn't keep changing to"dreadlocks"!)

[steve@cornwall 100]

Another one ticked off the list, Thanks all would be going nowhere fast without the forum......or stalling through lack of funds. Without others experiences of what fits where an how I'd likely nav rushed to fit the engine and wire it without preparing it first.

 

So today the diff is swapped, the wiring identified and labelled, which was a bit of a mare having to break the plug and pick / cut through the rubberized waterproofing to get any numbering, and then a few were un numbered.Luckily all needed wires according to the pinned guide were either numbered or could be found by process of elimination. The only exception being the absence of red 411, the oil temperature sender wire and an un numbered extra thick white wire . So next step now is checking these.

 

I was thinking that I could use the water distribution block from the 8v and all the cooling system, now it's obvious that this doesn't work! Because of this belief I was not worried that I broke the xsi distribution flange removing the engine....DOH! A search of various PSA group vehicles at the scrappy is on the cards, But for now copious amounts of epoxy will have to suffice, and I have a cunning plan to add a second outlet for the expansion tank.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Ah Haah! Reading online it seems the car doesn't have an oil temperature gauge.....certainly explains the missing wiring :-) And I think I've sorted the cooling too, using the original distribution flange, the hose tail from under an 8v inlet manifold, 306 thermostat to heater hose with the "click connector" cut down and a couple tubes of epoxy. Hopefully it won't grenade the first time it comes up to temperature and pressure, but it won't be the end of the world to revisit this later. Car isn't going to see the road in the foreseeable future, but needs to be mobile so this will suffice until something better presents itself.

 

I think I'm about ready to fit this now.....what on earth have I started???

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

I'm not sure if it will be the same but the turbo lump I put in my 309 had 2 drain plugs one higher up in the sump, I think it was the later type 205 oil temp sensors are the same thread so I used that to get the temp gauge working. Nice to see the progress, have fun.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I'd concur with that, late aircon 205's with the ally sump use a smaller thread oil temp sender.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Good to know, but I was quite chuffed when I fitted the 1.6 into my gti that the oil temp gauge was working as I think it's the first time I've had one work in over 15years, so I can live without it for now. Once it's up and running I'll get a t piece for the oil pressure gauge as it seems I have plenty of working room from underneath now with all the air con gubbins in the bin.! I do like that one to work. Can't for the life of me find my soldering iron so think I may treat myself to a better one before doing the wiring, I have one of the silly guns with a trigger atm and don't get along with it as well as an always ready small iron.

[welshpug 1,657]

if you can find an s16 type pressure sender that saves needing to use an adapter, they were on the 405 as well but not used, just sat there blocking the hole instead of a bung

[welshpug 1,657]

the later oil temp senders are m14x1.25 from memory, m16 earlier.

 

 

0242 81, not marked npf, £25 odd before discount, 140 degree rating.

Edited October 2, 2016 by welshpug

[steve@cornwall 100]

Engine now physically in the car! Driveshafts are in ok, gearchange is working fine, clutch cable has been made from a combination of 306 cable parts and a BE3 205 cable.

I cut the "nipple" off the end of the 306 cable and retained all the gearbox end fittings. The be3 cable I cut off the stop/mount that pushes down onto the 'box and slid on all the 306 parts which left far too much slack inner cable so a spacer was needed. A glance around the area revealed the collar that came off the 306 gearbox mount that isn't used on the 205, turns out its the perfect size! Fit in front of the clutch arm, rather than over the threaded portion of the cable leaves more room as it was looking too long to clear the rad.

 

Plumbing, wiring and exhaust left to tackle, despite never having welded, I've bought a second hand gasless mig and will attempt a hybrid exhaust using the somewhat butchered 306 downpipe with bodged "decat" and existing cti system.

I'm also hopeful that the 306 throttle cable will fit, looks possible.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Not much progress, but can confirm that as is the 306 throttle cable doesn't fit, the retaining grommet falls straight through the bulkhead. However, a hybrid of the two cables (306 & 205) has been fashioned!

I disconnected the white plastic cable to pedal retainer on the 306 cable, leaving just the cable and nipple. Cut through and removed all the plastic/ rubber cable ends and grommets also from the 306 cable. Cut the nipple off the end of the 205 cable, enabling all the retaining plastic and rubber components and the plastic end stop to be retrieved so they can be fitted to the end of the 306 cable. The plastic outer cable end stop needed a drill passed through it to enable the 306 nipple to be fed back through. All reassembled a-la 205 it fits like a glove. My ideal price too . ;-)

[steve@cornwall 100]

Ok. No progress on this for a few weeks.... I fear my ecu is locked. With as lot of help from Damo (thanks again mate) I've been checking the pins on the double fuel relay and all my positives are checking out, but not the negatives.grounding pin 10 doesn't help either unfortunately.

I have no positive to injectors, in fact I have both negatives, and no positive at the coil plug on the head.

I also have no feed to the fuel pump. FUEL flows to the rail if I wire the 205 side of th loom to positive, and the injectors spray if I connect them to a supply, so at least the fuel seems plumbed ok.

Cranks fine and the loom has not been disconnected from the engine, used the earth direct from the block to the bodyshell and the positives from the 306 to the positive of battery.

 

Quite stumped at this point. I disconnected the ecu with the engine running before removing the informative this was wrong?

[welshpug 1,657]

switched live should turn on the lives to coil and injectors.

[steve@cornwall 100]

In the guide I'm using (pinned in forum) the switched 205 live connects to lambda live and air bag switched live on 306 loom. Perhaps I've mis identified these? Any ideas which pins these wires originate , from ecu or relay?

[steve@cornwall 100]

Found this from an older post. Welshpug's pdf should be most helpful as it gives a start point to follow through to the right ecu pins.

Could it be so simple as to link pins 34 and 35 on the ecu to get around the immobilizer ? Would seem theoretically possible .

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=116827

[steve@cornwall 100]

IT RUNS !!!!!!

 

Traced pin 2 from the fuel relay, connected to ignition live from 205 and it sprung straight to life.

 

Thanks all for steering me in the right direction