Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

steve@cornwall

Xu10J4R (Xsi) Conversion Questions

Recommended Posts

steve@cornwall

It's finally time to go,16v. I have bought a cheap and nasty (bodily) 306 cabrio which is mechanically good, had a recent change in meds so my hands and arms work to the point I can wield spanners again and am ready to get stuck in!

 

I'll be transplanting into my cti which has been garaged for a couple of years and the goal is really just to get it in and running as an excersise in itself, because I've always wanted to do a 16v.

 

Spent some time online researching and have a few questions for you more experienced chaps.

 

1. Wiring wise it's as the gti-6 ? So I can use the pinned guide? (Which looks brilliant btw)

2. As I'll not be using air con or pas ,can I use the XU9 mi16 alternator brackets and engine mounts?

3. Also the inlet from above and possibly exhaust manifold?

4. Any information on unlocking the ecu would be appreciated.

5. Has anyone transplanted the 306 dash also? Just a silly idea in my head!

 

Should be fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

1, in essence yes, may be variations in pin location and colours, all functions will be same numbers.

 

2, no, only iron block stuff fits.

 

3, not sure what you are asking?

 

4, ignition on, unplug ecu.

 

5, too wide, ducting also moulded into it, makes up top half of heater box also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jackherer

3. Also the inlet from above and possibly exhaust manifold?

 

You can fit the GTI6 exhaust manifold to the XU10J4R and possibly the inlet manifold too. Both would need some messing about to make them fit into a 205 as per the GTI6 engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

Std inlet and exhaust fits in perfectly, without any modifications. It's one of the easiest conversions you can do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

Thanks guys. Nice and easy on the ecu, can use the wiring guide but double check continuity of each wire and leave the manifolds and alternator brackets as is then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

I'm just now removing the engine from the donor cabriolet. Took a while to figure out where the loom enters the car! Seems removing the dash was a waste of time,eh?

Getting to the downpipe bolts is worse than on a 205, which I thought were worst ever.

Next problem I see is the alternator. I won't be using the air con or power steering so can't see a way of tensioning the belt?

I assume I can use the 205 crank pulley?

Are all of the gearboxes from this engine equipped with electronic Speedos or is there an easy way of converting?

Most likely all beginners questions as this is my first effort at conversion. All help gratefully received

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

Can you not do something similar to GTi-6 conversions for the alternator belt, using an old eccentric cambelt tensioner? You'll need to retain the J4R crank pulley.

 

Use a hybrid speedo drive from an early 306 if you need a VSS for the management and a cable for the 205 speedo - pattern ones are available on eBay cheap as chips.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

I've done a search but can't find info on what others have done.

Great news on the Speedo though, thanks .I'll have a search through ebay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pugdamo

That's the one, have fun doing the conversion, I really enjoyed doing mine, looking to the next one now the 309 has gone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

Any plans for the next one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pugdamo

Not to sure, it's still running sweet at the minuite so just keep driving, but if a nice GTI6 turned up plans WOULD change.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

Cut 90% of the pas mount away, leaving only the bottom section which mounts to the block and holds the alternator. Either fabricate something like attached for the top, or preferably, use LH and RH 5/16" UNF rose joints in a length of 12mm aluminium rod, to create a turnbuckle.

 

I suppose you could use an 8V pulley, but you're better off buying a new solid pulley. The belt only needs to be 4PK x 690ish from memory.

post-2864-0-50996500-1446502859_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

Thank you all for sharing, going to make this so much easier.

Pete, that looks nice and neat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

that's an early non ac bracket, might not be what you have on yours so the alternator lugs could be different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

Indeed. The J4R's with AC use the same bracket as GTi-6's as far as I know, in which case this is what I was referring to above (shamelessly stolen image):

 

Picture005.jpg

 

That's the standard pulley and alternator with a 6PK700 belt and an eccentric type cambelt tensioner and post in one of the unused M8 threaded holes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
petert

that's an early non ac bracket, might not be what you have on yours so the alternator lugs could be different.

 

Not sure what you mean by that. What I mean is to cut the bracket off on the red line as shown and fabricate something to make it adjustable. Every XU10 block has an M8 lug in the same place. Mine looks a bit dodgy at present, with a stack of washers acting as a spacer, as the bolt snapped on the weekend.

post-2864-0-91229100-1446598694_thumb.jpg

post-2864-0-02990200-1446598784_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

Seeing as I now have the cti at home with an empty engine bay (for which the gti is grateful....) it may be time to get on with this!

 

I think I have a plan for the alternator adjuster and enough pieces of exhausts to make a system, but am stuck on wether to use the 306 gearbox which seems to throw up its own problems with linkage and clutch actuation or using the 205 'box.

 

Simplest solution seems to be to use the 205 box with 1.9 mi clutch. Does this clutch fit straight to the 306 flywheel or does it require the mi flywheel too? (I don't have the mi flywheel)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

the j4r flywheel is the same as the mi and gti6, so clutch will fit fine.

 

306 box into 205 is straightforward, swap top selector arm for flat 205 type, swap clutch fork and arm for push type.

fit small planet gear type diff, 205 has this.

Edited by welshpug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

Thanks, Mei

 

So for option of using 306 box, i'd use selector arm,diff, clutch fork and arm from 205 box along with original 306 clutch? (Less expense is always good )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

not the 306 clutch, as its a pull type.

 

if you need a 215mm push clutch look them up on ebay, you'll often find o.e.m on there cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

Still thinking around this.....anything to prevent just using the 306box with 205 diff (assume that is needed to fit 205 shafts?) And adapting either the 205 clutch cable to reach the standard 306 clutch set up or adapting the 205 pedal to fit the 306 cable? Maybe just adding a ball connection to the 205 pedal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
calvinhorse

I've used a 306 s16 gearbox which is the same push type, worked fine with the standard pedal and a phase 1 gti clutch cable, I think I made a big spacer to take up the extra cable

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
steve@cornwall

My solution to the alternator adjustment.

 

20160928_165201.jpg

 

Chopped off all the power steering pump mounts from the behemoth mounting. Retained the bottom alternator mounting allowing the alternator to swing outward from the top. Drilled and cut the 8v adjuster to fit to the top alternator mount, the cut end has been trimmed to fit the casting and keep it in place (no pivoting). Cut down the original top bolt to fit, waste not want not....lol

Trimmed the end of the alternator mounting by the width of the new bracket to keep it all in line.

All I need now is to measure the belt length and source a belt and put a longer bolt through the threaded part of the adjuster and the alternator top mount. Needed to grind away some of the "fins" on alternator casing to clear the bracket.

To me it seems a similar arrangement to the 8v, but pivoting from the bottom rather than the top. Anyone foresee any problems with this method? Seems simple and very cheap!

Edited by steve@cornwall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×