mowflow 67 Posted September 6, 2015 I fear I've maybe been a little to hasty in cranking my car over via the ignition. It's been a long term project with the engine in various dormant/stripped states for a few years. I had the looms rebuilt and have now wired everything up apart from the fan/cooling which isn't yet in place. I've got new oil in and wanted to get it circulated by cranking over with the ignition leads removed (also no fuel in the car ATM and no fuel pressure reg). Today was like a massive milestone putting the key in the ignition and seeing the dash light up. Both guages on left were right up don't know if that's normal (fuel level isn't connected). Turned the key to start position, got 1 crank then nothing. Oil guage is now right down. I get all the single click sounds on key turn but just nothing happening at the starter. No fuses seem to have blown, nothing smoldered or melted and the engine still turns freely by the crank bolt with no horrible noises. Am I being overly paranoid, missing something obvious? Too early for doing this? I don't want to put everything together then have to strip half back for an obvious error. I am definitely going to get one of the 206 starters as the first thought. Any advice and guidance greatly appreciated. I need this car to live again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted September 6, 2015 If it's turning over by hand fine then it has to be a starter or electrical issue. Are the battery terminal clamps fully tightened? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,548 Posted September 6, 2015 Flat battery? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mowflow 67 Posted September 6, 2015 Tried it with a charger over the battery as well and still nothing. The battery has been sitting since the car came off the road so I was sure it was flat. However, the first crank was with no charger so it appeared to have enough in it. I'm going to have to get a metre and some lessons on how to use it. Hate electrics, I've really struggled to motivate myself through the wiring so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scbond 15 1 Cars Posted September 6, 2015 I'd say battery is completely dead. May have had enough charge for the first crank but still won't hold anythin when charging it. I've been in a situation where my battery on another car was so dead that even jump starting after a lengthy charge did nothing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mowflow 67 Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) But if it's the battery wouldn't I still get something in terms of it cranking over if I had the battery wired to the charger while turning the key? I could get the dash lights to come on. As is possibly evident by now. The electrics both baffle and terrify me. ETA. Actually, now I think about it, the charger could well be shagg3d which is why my plating efforts went a bit funny. Edited September 6, 2015 by mowflow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scbond 15 1 Cars Posted September 10, 2015 No, as jump starting (either with a car or battery charger) is just putting the battery in the middle of a series connection. If it's completely dead and doesn't hold anything then nothing will happen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,548 Posted September 10, 2015 Parallel connection. Put it in series you have 24v. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slo 283 1 Cars Posted September 10, 2015 Parallel connection. Put it in series you have 24v. And burnt out wiring Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scbond 15 1 Cars Posted September 11, 2015 Parallel connection. Put it in series you have 24v. My bad...long day and meant to say parallel! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boldy205 75 Posted September 15, 2015 The two gauges on left are oil pressure and fuel level right? Oil pressure you can test if wiring is correct by earthing out the sender wire (gauge will read max). Have you got the two brown multi plugs in the correct way? Also, as stated, nothing wrong with trying a new battery, double check all connections. Look for the most simple thing first. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mowflow 67 Posted December 13, 2015 Hauling this back up to the top. As I'm just returning to this after another issue has taken up the last 2 months. So I fitted a replacement starter motor although I know it isn't the issue. Replacing the old valeo for a slim Mitsubishi job. Bought a brand new Yuasa battery intended for a 306 so plenty of power (cca is about 600 from memory) Stuck the key in the ignition and exact same thing happened. Engine cranked and turned over then next attempt nothing. Exactly the same result. When I first turned the key the first click the blower came on (fascia isn't fitted so never knew it was on), dials read the same as last time, P symbol etc and battery light on. Exactly the same as last time After the first crank of the ignition I get nothing. I get the relevant clicks from driver side relay and fuse box but just nothing, No dial readings, nada. No fuses are blowing. Lights and indicators aren't fitted so I can't try them but when I turn on lights or front indicators or front wiper (motor not fitted) the rear wiper comes on. Dash illumination works as normal. Headlight loom earths are connected. It seems very weird behaviour. In case it points to anything obviously stupid, the current situation is as follows. MAF not plugged in Coil not connected to distributor HT leads pulled from spark plugs Loom is all connected and as I can tell correct Earth connected to inner wing and gearbox Live connected across starter and shunt box No radiator connected up and therefor no temp sensor Fuel pump not connected and no fuel. I'm just trying to crank it over to check oil circulation. Fishing electrics.... Hate it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted December 13, 2015 Bought a brand new Yuasa battery intended for a 306 so plenty of power (cca is about 600 from memory) Stuck the key in the ignition and exact same thing happened. Engine cranked and turned over then next attempt nothing. Exactly the same result. Did you tighten the battery terminal clamps fully? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mowflow 67 Posted December 13, 2015 I did, yes. Tearing what's left of my hair out. Just can't make sense of it turning over as expected then being dead, twice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted December 13, 2015 I agree, it does sound suspiciously like bad battery connections/cables or similar - it appears fine until you crank the starter, the resulting current kills the connection and you lose everything until the connection cools. You could try using some heavy duty jump leads to add an additional earth and if the radiator isn't fitted and you're careful, a positive feed to the starter. A bad earth in particular can cause some very odd electrical issues with one circuit doing odd things to another apparently unrelated one. I guess it is possible something like the ignition switch could behave similar if its bad - clue will be if headlights are still bright when rest of electrics don't work as they don't go through ignition switch. That wouldn't explain the odd issues with one circuit affecting another though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mowflow 67 Posted December 13, 2015 Sounds like step one needs to be replacing the battery - leads to the gearbox and wing with completely new and ensuring they have bare metal contact. The bay has been painted but I did run the thread of earth points. Need to do the same with my headlight loom earths. I was hoping the odd behaviour with the lights and wipers was to do with the rear wiper being the only fitted component to consume energy when switched. But I guess my theory of electricity being like water (it has to flow somewhere) illustrates just how little I understand about it. So does the radiator act as an earth? I do have a new radiator for fitting. Only reason I hadn't is I wanted to make sure things worked before filling the bay with bits. Would a good test procedure be to run a heavy duty jump lead from the - to the block then try ignition? If the problem remains could I then try the other jump lead from the starter to the battery + (Earth still to the block) I take it ignition wouldn't be required here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mowflow 67 Posted December 13, 2015 Oh, another thing that probably isn't related but thought I should check. There is a thin wire with a black single spade connector on it that comes through at the ignition coil on top of the inlet as part of that loom. Should that connect to anything and could it be related? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slo 283 1 Cars Posted December 14, 2015 Its a spare probably part of obsolete obd 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mowflow 67 Posted December 20, 2015 (edited) Success! Made up a new battery earth strap and cleaned the earth points on the chassis and gearbox along with the terminals. Cranking over fine now, oil pressure gauge is moving but never actually though about how to check the pressure properly. No leaks, so that's good. Stalk controls still acting weird. Everything turns the rear wiper on. I'm hoping fitting more stuff and cleaning those earths will fix that. Thanks all for the tips. Edited December 20, 2015 by mowflow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
