Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Richie-Van-GTi

Good Waterproof Multiplugs And What Guage Wire

Recommended Posts

Richie-Van-GTi

Can anyone reccomend a decent plug to use for making an entire engine loom minus main live and earth into a quickly removable item. Something like the twist ones found on later peugeots such as the 306 etcalso what guages of wire should I stock up on for making a loom?

I have a complete xu10j4r loom which I need to strip a few parts out such as standard lambda, aircon etc and add in the cam sensor for gti6 and wideband wiring etc then want it straight to a quick release waterproof plug under the bonnet.

Then making a loom from ecu which is dash mounted so will run through bulkhead to the plug.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scbond

Can't really advise on multiplugs as the only ones other than standard that I've used are Superseals and I personally think they are flimsy and not very good!

 

As for wires, you'll need a lot! Gauges will obviously depend on the current and application so I'd stock up for all or make a list of everything you'll need. Most common is 28/0.30 2mm sq. as most, if not all, 15 amp or lower circuits use that. Also depends on the colour coding you want as to how much you'll be buying.

 

Might be worth buying numbered tags/rings as well.

Edited by scbond

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mowflow

Now that i've had my multiplug rewired i'm thinking it might be an idea to create some kind of waterproof cover/jacket for it. Struggling to think of a waterproof material that could deal with the possible heat. I have a roll of that self bonding silicone tape that I might try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

28/030 cable is overkill for a lot of applications. Its good for 17.5A which is 210W @ 12V, there are few things in the car that take anything near that.

 

Go and look on either Vehicle Wiring Products, or Polevolt websites. All the materials you will need are there.

 

I have wired a number of cars from scratch, my advice is to spend the time and draw out a proper diagram, and designate wire colours and fuse sizes before you even touch the wire cutters.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scbond

28/030 cable is overkill for a lot of applications. Its good for 17.5A which is 210W @ 12V, there are few things in the car that take anything near that.

 

Go and look on either Vehicle Wiring Products, or Polevolt websites. All the materials you will need are there.

 

I have wired a number of cars from scratch, my advice is to spend the time and draw out a proper diagram, and designate wire colours and fuse sizes before you even touch the wire cutters.

 

Stereo fuse is rated at 10 amps, closest commonly available gauge that is rated above that is 28/0.30...surely 14/0.30 is asking for trouble on a 10 amp circuit when it's only suitable for 8.75 amps?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Ok you know better, crack on.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scbond

Ok you know better, crack on.

 

Not saying I do, just saying that wire rated at a lower amperage for the circuit isn't a good idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Alastairh

Richie, personally I don't see the need to add an additional plug. Extra cost and another area to become a weak spot. I would just copy Peugeots original 8v method and have 2 brown plugs under the dash (which you can buy new connectors and crimps), hard wire the sensor loom from here straight to the sensors/starter etc and minimise another weak spot of not have a brown multi plug ontop of the gear box, which cause 99% of all clicky starter motors.

 

As for gauge of wire size, compare how Peugeot have done it. The stereo may have a 10a fuse, but you don't have 1.5mm cable powering that?

 

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

 

Not saying I do, just saying that wire rated at a lower amperage for the circuit isn't a good idea.

Go and look up rated. Continuous and peak current rating for cables in particular, as they are different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dobboy

Richie, i would recommend using the multiplug. I've used the GTI6 set up on mine and it has been very handy as i've lifted my engine out twice. Mines is fitted beside my windscreen washer bottle, it allows a simple unplug and lift the engine out with full loom fitted.

 

You'd probably find a suitable plug from RS Components.

 

Iirc a gti6 plug is 26 pin, with 23 of them being used in gti6, and slightly less when used in a 205.

 

Cable sizing isn't just about current rating, volt drop per amp per metre also has to be considered with any heavy loads. Also maybe some of your signal wiring might have to be wired in screened type cabling, i'm sure i've seen it used in a rally car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi

Thanks for all the replies. Ive seen some nice gland mount aircraft style connectors. Not strictly waterproof but I can mount them in a redundant under bonnet fuse box.

Tha ability for a simple unplug and lift is to make my life easier long term. May add another weak spot but if its all brand new and done correctly it should last the life of the car. Most wiring jobs I have seen failed have been due to shoddy workmanship and incorrect fittings.

The ecu uses 2 20 pin motherboard plugs so want to just fly those straight out through a grommet to the empty fusebox on the inner wing.

Ive started writing up a list of all the wires to run in, what fuses, what switches etc. Proper head scratcher ????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scbond

Go and look up rated. Continuous and peak current rating for cables in particular, as they are different.

I'm aware of the difference, but your point is that, for example, the stereo wiring doesn't need to be suitable for 10 amps because the continuous current will be lower...so why did Peugeot (and most other car manufacturers, and stereo manufacturers) use a 10 amp fuse?

 

To be honest, it will always depend on the application. Most ideal way is to calculate the most suitable guage...and then find that in most cases car wiring manufacturers don't supply it.

Edited by scbond

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

To protect the cable in the event of a fault, simple really.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scbond

But a 10 amp fuse isn't going to safeguard an 8.75 amp wire from burning if the circuit is putting through 9 amps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×