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R.G_205

Mi16 Ph4

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R.G_205

Quick question on the mi16 and fitting the ph4 newmans. Do you need to grind out the lifter casing for them to fit and turn with out fouling? Cheers!!!

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dcc

I had big cams in a s16 casting a few years ago, the casting had been relieved slightly to allow sufficient clearance.

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petert

If more than approx. 0.400" lift, then yes. You have to completely strip the head however. Otherwise they'll be swarf in all the wrong places.

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R.G_205

So the ph4 288s will need the head work for them to fit correct? 0.040 too much

post-17581-0-15390700-1441183873_thumb.jpg

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petert

No chance of fitting in a standard head.

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R.G_205

Nice one I got it on a stand ATM so I'll flip it up side down and die grind the offending castings off thanks for the heads up!!!

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petert

How will that work? The valves have to be out so you can check rotation of each lobe.

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calvinhorse

Is there not enough room if you just take the buckets out?

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SweetBadger

I've fitted a PH4 inlet and PH3 exhaust cam to an XU9J4 MI16 head. The casting had to be relieved to allow clearance for both cams; achieved easily in a hour or so with a dremel and burr bit. Don't go mad, it's only necessary to remove a small amount or material, and from memory in my case all of the machined part of the lifter bore was untouched.

 

This was perfectly possible with the lifters out but valve train still in place - the cams rotate freely without hitting the tops of the valve stems when the lifters are removed.

 

I can't find a photo at the mo, but I masked off most of the head to prevent swarf from getting in, and then packed paper towel soaked in wd40 down each lifter bore to prevent swarf getting down through the lifter bores. After a thorough clean up before removing the tape / paper towel there was no swarf in sight.

 

You should be fine if the engine is on a stand and you're careful in my opinion, wouldn't want to try it on an engine in situ though due to the angle it sits at.

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R.G_205

I saw your post on the page but I couldn't make out weather or not you had done the grinding work on the lifter housing but good shout with the rags in the housings I'll do that thanks for the advice guys and getting me the answers I needed

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SweetBadger

Have found some pics, hopefully should make it clearer.

 

Head masked off: 6908202F-DF14-480A-A9F3-F03E2343E778.jpg

 

Close up of lifter bore (exhaust) after material removed:

 

451C4AB5-D94A-40F7-9F84-C7F8C356F140.jpg

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calvinhorse

Wow that's pervtastic! Bit OCD sweetbadger? :D

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petert

More time masking up than it is to strip the head!

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R.G_205

Did you grind out both sides? Gunna do that to mine n blow it out with an air line good effort

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camgti

The risk of getting even a small amount of swarf if surely too high to do it like this.

 

Strip the head and do it properly really!

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SweetBadger

Ha! Calvinhorse - yeah bit ocd, but I couldn't face stripping and rebuilding the head again!

 

Peter, you must be bloody quick at stripping and rebuilding mi heads! Having only a kitchen table to work on (plus associated pissed off wife) means it takes me a while to rebuild a 16v head - getting the sodding collets back in is a pig of a job. Really didn't take that long to mask it off.

 

Camgti - yes ideally the head would be stripped, but if you're careful and mask it off properly / clean it properly then I don't see how the risk is any higher. Probably more likely to have a tiny bit of swarf stuck in the head if you don't mask it off and miss a bit while cleaning it out after. Plus the op has a built engine, so it's a head off job plus new gaskets, bolts to allow the head to be stripped. I would Deffo not be going down that route!

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B1ack_Mi16

Don't forget to grind out of the cam cover also!

 

I forgot on my 2.3 and wondered why the cam lobes were chipped after the engine was run in.

 

Last time I had the cam cover off I noticed the cams had taken a significant amount of material away from the cover casting!

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