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blandy

Shorter Rad

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blandy

Just wandering if anyone is using a alternative rad that's shorter, I've already lowered mine as far as I would like it to go so just wondering what other tried and tested alternatives people are using? As space is a premium as trying to fit a intercooler and oil coolers etc but want it all subtle

 

I know the likes of spoox and baker bm do a lovely alloy rad that's shorter but being a cheapskate just seeing if there's a cheaper way

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Tom Fenton

The BBM rad is a really nice thing though, ok it's a lump of cash but really worth the money.

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James_K

Have you thought of using a cosworth intercooler above a lowered rad (behind the front grill)? Works well and they can be bought second hand for peanuts. It also reduces the amount of pipework, assuming you're supercharging.

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blandy

I have not but definately something I'll look into as could be just what I need

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dobboy

Think Malc also used a cosworth intercooler on his charged GTI6

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Malc

No I used an Isuzi trooper intercooler, modified with the charger cooler welded on top. I managed to fit that plus an uprated (standard size rad) and a 16 row oil cooler all behind the standard bumper and valance, with very slight trimming. Not blooming easy though!!

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welshpug

I'm not so sure on the efficiency of the BBM/Radtec units, though my experience of one may be slightly tainted as it was leaking like a sieve, comments for a few people with high power N-A builds were that a relocated standard good quality gti unit is sufficient and less problematic, if you needed any more you could use a Turbo Diesel rad with its 50mm core rather than the 30mm of a gti unit.

 

Tom has made some lowering brackets for this purpose.

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blandy

As said above mine is already lowered

 

But that is the kinda info I'm after regarding the bbm etc as at the min it cools quite happily but with fitting a intercooler probably in front I definately don't want to loose any cooling capabilitys as if anything if I do change Id want to be going for something proven to be more efficient.

 

I can prob just about mske a standard rad fit height wise so the general idea would be stick with stock?

Is a td rad taller or just thicker? As if I can physically fit it in it may be a good option

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blandy

Malc have you got any pics?

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koti

I've got a pro-alloy shortened rad on mine; it was expensive second hand from someone on here, but it is brilliant- engine is a high comp 8v and temperature is rock solid whether it's on the dyno, on the track, sat in traffic or whatever. Temperature never even enters my mind when I'm in it- well worth it in my opinion!

 

Obligatory crappy picture from when it had an mi:

 

20140406_135938_zpsvvvqisfc.jpg

Edited by koti

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opticaltrigger

I think Welshpug's idea is bang on,If it's efficiency your affter,then stock.

Manufacturers are very exhaustive when desighning cooling systems and radiators.They have to be able to manage temprature while your towing weight uphill in the desert with 5 people,there belongings and a full tank of fuel.And do just as well in the winter in Siberia.Wow,thats a big ask.

 

All the best

O.T.

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jackherer

That's true if everything is standard but as soon as you fit a different engine, lower the rad and/or ditch the standard fan cowling Peugeot's work means nothing and you're on your own.

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dcc

Thats a fairly stupid generalisation to make, the cowling in my opinion makes cooling worse when driving (not a bad thing), the lowering of the radiator doesnt really affect the cooling at all, but it does lead to issues with debris / stones, also the different engine argument doesnt really stand either (to an extent). I think it was biggles who wrote a brilliant explaination about engine efficiency a few years ago.

 

Personal experiences : gti6 engines run hotter than xu 8v's and alloy block 16's, I never had an issue with the shortened radiator on my bodied xu10j4rs, the only time I had problems was running 220+bhp from a 88x88 diesel block 16v.

 

Standard radiator has been perfct for me. Was fitted as a stop gap, only issue is (currently in standard location) the inlet temp reads 65°+ in this weather. I currently have 165ish bhp running through a very badly dented, bent, old & dirty gti standard unit, it has been faultless. The design time which was put in to the radiator has proven fruitful in many ways for peugeot! (And even the reps such as nissens)

 

It must be doing somethig right if it can cope with 270ish bhp from Satchells hill climb car? Hopefully biggles will explain his engine info as well as he did a few years ago.

 

I have my fan set to 92, it kicks in eventually when driven hard and coming to a stop, or if left to run for long enough.

 

Meirion is speaking about my shortened radiator, i believe it to be one of the very first items Stew (baker) had made. It must have been 7/8years old, and to be fair it sent through 3 or 4 engines / cars with me. I still have it, ill get it recored one day, but no rush for now

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dcc

Its also worth noting that gti 6 engines run their water system at a higher pressure than the other engines mentioned, which will highlight issues in your cooling systen, generally you'll find this to be the heater matrix! (Even s*itty aftermarket ones struggle!)

 

Rarely will you find a standard radiatorstruggle (in fair condition)

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Tom Fenton

I don't agree with the cowling bit Dan. My experience is that it does a good job of filling in the "holes" in the front aperture and so forces all the airflow to go through the radiator rather than around it. Move the rad down/back/whatever and all of a sudden the air can go where it wants, so the ability to lose heat energy is reduced.

My experience is on my red turbo car, the standard rad was in good condition but relocated, it struggled at motorway speeds until I made some deflector plates to make the airflow go through the rad, that improved matters but it was still marginal if giving it some bastard, I moved to a 205 turbo diesel rad and now the cooling is more than adequate.

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James504

I'm not so sure on the efficiency of the BBM/Radtec units, though my experience of one may be slightly tainted as it was leaking like a sieve

 

Good to know I wasn't the only one. Mine leaked from 3 months old. Not so easy to send it back for repairs down here.

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jackherer

That's exactly what I meant about the cowlings Tom, I had Dr Sarty here a while ago with cooling issues and he was talking about fitting new water pumps and all sorts. One deflector plate later and it was all sorted. He'd lowered a standard rad to let cool air into his TBs but it left gaps around the rad so the air just bypassed it.

 

Anyway, my post was in reply to opticaltrigger saying that the manufacturer had developed the system exhaustively and my point was that if you change any element of it you then need to ensure everything else about it still works as it should. I'm not against altering the cooling system BTW, I have a Radtec/BBM style rad on my 205 and I recently fitted one of Tom's stainless rad brackets to a mates car.

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petert

I was running lowered standard radiator with no ducting. I was having trouble with over heating so rebuilt all the ducting. Any air coming into the front of the car now has to pass through the radiator. No more problems, even on the hottest Aussie day.

post-2864-0-21465200-1437649053_thumb.jpg

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welshpug

Tony Palfrey and Colin's cars both run ducting/cowling so the air is totally isolated from the intake, I noticed colin appears to have some neat brake ducts fed from the rad cowling which makes sense as its under pressure there.

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rallyeash

Ive found first hand controlling oil temperature can reduce water temp. My coolant system sits around 70 degree after 15 minutes out on track...

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Gman

Spiky ran a cossie intercooler above a standard loward rad on his rotrex 205 without problem

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hatemgti

I have lowered standard rad. with RS500 intercooler,the temp. is fine with two Spal fans puller type.

Edited by hatemgti
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blandy

Is that with a rotrex charger? Have you got any pics of the set up either way it sounds like a plan going forward

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Paul_13

Build thread on here some where

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