Steering Column Drama

[commievid 8]

Hi again all,

 

I couldn't find anything regarding anyone experiencing this before, and it's my fault along the way.

 

Over the weekend I had some drama regarding changing the power steering rack. I was anticipating the hard part to be dropping the subframe and manipulating the rack to disconnect all the fittings and stuff and then reversing.

 

However, the biggest drama I've found was connecting up the steering column back to the UJ. For whatever reason, it wasn't going in all the way, and after a couple of hours of fuming, raging, and overzealous use of a rubber mallet then a lump hammer, I got it mated up enough so that the pinch bolt would actually go through. Good enough I thought.

 

Here's the aftermath:

 

 

One of the steering column studs sheared off when undoing/redoing. Must have overtightened it during this struggle and needing to readjust the column. Shouldn't be anything to worry about?

 

 

The shroud isn't lining up correctly. I've ordered a replacement set of trim as I'm sure I've damaged something somewhere.

 

 

 

The steering column isn't aligned with the shroud/dashboard. Anyone else have this happen? TADTS?

 

I've also noticed the steering lock isn't working anymore. Is it a case of messing around with the ignition barrel or around there?

 

I pretty much went at the whole thing with a rubber mallet so wouldn't be too surprised if I broke something, but maybe I've just dislodged something instead.

 

At the very least, with the car on its wheels and on the floor, I have noticed a difference between steering weight with the engine on and off, so it looks like the power steering rack was the cause.

 

In all of this work, the nut for the lower engine mount has disappeared (probably rolled into a bunch of kitchen towels which were subsequently dumped) so that needs sorting out, then an alignment, then at least the mechanical bits are done. Just this bit of fit and finish inside the cabin.

 

Many thanks in advance.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

A lump hammer? Rough bastard!

 

Firstly you need to replace that broken stud, there should be 4 studs securing the upper column not 3.

 

The holes that the nuts clamp the column to the body are enlarged so if you loosen each nut off a couple of turns then you can align the column with the dash shroud plastics.

[Anthony 1,003]

There is a degree of left-right adjustment in the column mounts, so probably just needed some adjustment to get it to line up nicely.

The column inner will move in/out in the outer as well if you're brutal, which might be what's stopping the steering lock engaging. Loosen the clamp bolt with the lower column and give the steering wheel a sharp pull (or push) and it should move a little - if you go too far the upper column bearings will start to bind up.

 

As for the snapped stud, drill it out and put a nut and bolt in there, assuming you don't have a welder to tack the bolt in place and effectively make it into a stud.

 

Glad to hear that the steering rack sorted out your woes though

[commievid 8]

Hi all,

 

Looks like it possibility could have been the in/out position of the steering column. I mentioned using a lump hammer to get the damn thing onto the UJ, turns out I wasn't locating it precisely, so wasn't in fully, so when assembled actually pushed the steering wheel out, presumably away from the lock and the indicator cancel as it turns out.

 

Looks like the steering column and UJ only actually goes in one possible way, one spline out and it won't happen. Really should have had a key or notch or something to make that easier.

 

This time the column is now in securely, and yes, the steering column has some left and right movement which now centres it up.

 

I had to like a muppet though decide to try and pull out the ignition barrel, as I wanted to clear the wiring out to allow for a bit of breathing space. The barrel itself was fine as I've done that before, but in my attempts to sort out the connector to the barrel to remove it from the steering column, I ended up pulling it apart and a spring flew off. In my fumbling attempts to get this back together, I broke the spring.

 

So right now I don't have a working ignition barrel connector. Wife suggests I try a spring from a clicky biro, so will try that this evening. I've really made this harder than necessary.

 

Oh and moving the steering column around has meant the grommet to the bulkhead has popped loose.

 

Maybe god is trying to tell me something.

[commievid 8]

Ok, looks like the biro spring, cut a little short, appears to have worked. Time will tell if it holds.

 

Will have to sort out that sheared stud then. Looks like there's still a few mm protruding. Hopefully there's enough space to get the drill in there, and hopefully enough space to get a spanner onto the bolt when tightening.

 

It had to be the furthest stud in didn't it.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Oh the joys!

[commievid 8]

Sounds like the belt is chirping now. Those spacers for the PAS pump I suspect. There was only one on my car, and it was located at the bottom. Looks like I'll have to move the alternator out of the way to get access to get that spacer aligned.

 

Man.

[commievid 8]

Managed to get that spacer in place in situ, it's pretty blind getting that bolt in anyways so perhaps no more worse. Broke the tab on the mount that adjusts the tensioner, so fingers crossed the tensioner bolts are tightened enough.

 

Drilling this sheared stud for the steering column, or at least attempting to. Used a Dremel to grind off the few millimetres left protruding, but the drilling of the remaining bit that appears to be welded to the shell is taking a boring amount of time, in that position.

 

No choice but to persevere I guess.

[commievid 8]

Ok, got a couple of new drill bits from Screwfix, which equated to pretty much drilling it out in about 10 minutes. Guess it pays to invest.

 

Will source an M7 bolt to replace, and probably some new nuts too, looks like the reason for shearing is the crazy tendency for these nuts to cross thread.

 

Anyways, I've noticed my bodge fix for the ignition barrel connector isn't perfect. To start the car, I need to flick the key to the start, whilst wiggling, then the starter motor fires up. As long as this remains consistent, it's not the end of the world.

 

However, probably safer to just replace the entire wiring (which is what is supposed to happen). I've noticed on the auction site some brand new ones at a reasonable price, however, I notice they have a cross pattern on the part that mates to the ignition barrel. The one I have (and the one that I also see on used examples for sale) has a three pronged shape.

 

Would this mean the new ones aren't compatible? Not sure whether there was some update that happened.

Edited July 8, 2015 by commievid

[Anthony 1,003]

I've never seen an X-shaped ignition switch fitted to a 205/309, only Y-shaped ones like you say.

 

I'm assuming that the ones being sold on eBay as fitting a 205 are actually for some other model.

 

And yes, decent sharp drill bits make a massive difference!