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Gavin Waddell

Setting Up Engine 1.6 Gti

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Gavin Waddell

I read a post a while back big can't seem to find it again even using a google search. The post have a detailed how to set up the fuelling and idle on Xu engines, I remember vaguely that you had to screw the idle control screw in then unscrew it 1.5 turns and then do something else, I know I'm a bit vague but if any knows what I'm talking about it would be really helpful as I've got an emissions test on Friday and would like to set it up the engine correctly as it's kangerooing a lot at low speed .

 

Thanks Gavin

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Gavin Waddell

Hey scbond

 

Tanks for the link I had a go at setting up my

Engine, but did work out very well, I took it to a garage and used their gas analyser and and well it's a bit weird.

If I set up the engine via the guide my engine runs really rich and also have the throttle air screw all the way in to have an idle of 900rpm. If I back the throttle air crew out all the figure drop and I can set up using the the throttle air screw but it runs lumpy and kangaroos all all over the place?

 

I changed the ecu temp sensor and am going to change the ht leads also.

 

When I was in the uk I got it set up by a guy and pug performance I think his name was Andy but not sure he did it by ear and ran better than ever.

 

If any one has any ideas please feel free to chip in

 

Gavin

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Gavin Waddell

Hey scbond

 

Tanks for the link I had a go at setting up my

Engine, but did work out very well, I took it to a garage and used their gas analyser and and well it's a bit weird.

If I set up the engine via the guide my engine runs really rich and also have the throttle air screw all the way in to have an idle of 900rpm. If I back the throttle air crew out all the figure drop and I can set up using the the throttle air screw but it runs lumpy and kangaroos all all over the place?

 

I changed the ecu temp sensor and am going to change the ht leads also.

 

When I was in the uk I got it set up by a guy and pug performance I think his name was Andy but not sure he did it by ear and ran better than ever.

 

If any one has any ideas please feel free to chip in

 

Gavin

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hoodygoodwood

Setting up the 8v engines is best not done piecemeal , I would start from the very beginning .

Read the relevant sections of the Haynes manual and write all the info down .

1. check all oil vapour hoses for splits , cracks , loose connections that could cause an air leak - plus hoses in the wrong place or blocked !

2. the throttle body is often choked with oil sludge including some tiny holes in pipes that connect to vac advance or oil vapour pipes .

3. vacuum advance pipe from TB is often perished or missing and module on side of dizzy is often not working because diaphragm is perished .Suck to check .

4. throttle position switch ( TPS ) is crucial to running of engine , check it with a multimeter at its 3 positions .Closed/open/wide open .if it tests ok make sure it is adjusted correctly

5. check for missing screw in side of inlet manifold ( oil filler fixing )

6. most people set ignition timing by driving it thru mid and higher revs and advancing the timing till it starts to pink then back it off a degree , this gives good driveability but often a horrible tickover .

7. set tickover rpm using air bypass screw in TB although in the past owners may have touched the throttle stop screw and this might need to be corrected .

8. all the sensors are connected with Bosch waterproof terminals but oil or water can get into these and cause a poor electrical connection , also the terminals can push back inside the plug

9. the only fuelling adjustment possible is the tickover CO which can be changed using an allen key in the screw in the airflow meter .It is possible to adjust the spring in the mechanism of the AFM but this is not an official thing so you won't find it in a manual .

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scbond

Referring to the procedure in the guide only (could still have issues as outlined above), if running rich at idle then lean it out further. This should drop the revs very slightly, then bring it back up with the air bypass screw.

 

I'd aim for 1,000 RPM warm idle, rather than 900/950.

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Ramigojag

I followed the tips left by AndyCrom in the other thread and it worked brilliantly. She's never ran so well. Only thing I couldn't do was check the CO levels so left it where it was for now and will check before long.

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