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mrfirepro

Door Pins

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mrfirepro

Have finally got round to removing the door and replacing the door pins.

 

However the lower hinge is worn and there is still a small amount of movement, it seems from a search on here that the common solution is drill to 8mm with 8.5mm pins (uncompressed).

 

This may be me being thick but the OE ones have a raised area on the pin which locates into the door side of the hinge so that the movement is in the body side hinge.

 

If I fit standard 8mm pins, will they not simply remain soil in the body side hinge and move in the small part of the door side hinge or am I missing something......

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farmer

If you want a new door hinge I have one coming over, not ideal considering the cost and work done before hand but an option none the less

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mrfirepro

Thought of another option.....

 

Redrill the door bracket to 10mm and machine a 10mm x 7mm insert and use the original pins.....anyone else done this???

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Tom Fenton

Paul, have a look and see what size glacier bush are available.

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mrfirepro

Thanks Tom,

 

I did the passenger door today and the insert worked really well. Used a 316 stainless insert (10mm OD, 7mm ID x 23.5mm) cut from a 2m length of stainless tube.

 

I'll post up a few pics just in case anyone was thinking of doing the same.

 

Good news is that I've got enough pipe to make another 80 or so inserts, so if anyone wants one let me know.

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Phil205

I have the 1988 version.

 

The driver's side door drops a bit when opened.

 

I think it is the lower hinge that is worn the most, as that has the most play.

 

Advice please :-

 

1) First thing to try is to change the hinge pins for new ?

Does anyone know where to get new original size pins from ?

 

2) If the bracket is very worn, next best option is to fit some kind of bush or larger hinge pins ?

 

3) Is changing the whole bracket, quite an involved job ?

I guess new brackets are hard to buy ?

 

 

Thankyou.

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farmer

1 = Main dealer still supply the pins

 

2 = Paul's method worked well

 

3 = Yes NFP and wouldn't be that easy to fit I guess, I do keep hinges but I would try Paul's method before that.

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Phil205

1) I will change the pins first.

 

2) Would I need to drill the holes in the door brackets to 10 mm before I use Pauls' method ?

 

Fitting some kind of insert to take up the 'slack' seems the way to go, rather than replacing hinges.

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theoilburner

Paul's kit is available on eBay, involves drilling out the hinge on the body to 10mm and inserting a steel insert

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