[Car_Upgrade] 205 Gti6 Bare Shell Build (Pic Heavy)

[Anthony 1,003]

Also, on the standard gti6 setup, pulling the brown thermostat switch out triggers the fans at full speed. On mine, it's not doing anything, but the temperature didn't get remotely warm anyway.

 

With that in mind, I'm running the diesel twin-fan setup with the proper relays etc. Anyone know if it should still trigger it? I know the fans work as I tested them before fitting them. Just didn't want to let it get hot before them kicking in and relying on the temperature gauge for the first time.

No, unplugging the brown 2-pin switch won't do anything on a 205 as it doesn't have the Bitron system. Indeed, whenever I do a 205 GTi-6 loom I remove that plug and the wiring for it.

 

The fans will be switched by the thermoswitch in the radiator, but again, unplugging that won't test the fans. You can confirm the fans themselves work by unplugging the thermoswitch and linking pairs of pins in the plug using a length of wire. From memory, the pins are feed, high speed, low speed.

[Anthony 1,003]

Bit unsure about the rear centre section heatshield that runs under the fuel tank. Does that bolt to the bracket that wraps around the beam? (The one I vividly remember throwing in the bin!)

Sort of - it bolts to the studs on the shell where the centre exhaust hanger attaches at the front, and onto the stud on a piece of L-shaped metal between the beam and fuel tank. You don't need the clamp that goes around the beam tube, but I would suggest retaining the flat bar section to give the fuel tank heat shield some support.

 

Car is looking fab btw!

[rikky 37]

Thanks

 

Got a photo of it? I was on Google looking at underside photos but couldn't work it out!

[Anthony 1,003]

 

Not sure if that helps? That's the Servicebox image which sort of shows the heatshield and other parts.

[rikky 37]

That doesn't look familiar, but there's been a lot of bodges so far so wouldn't suprise me if it was zip tied to the beam strap!

 

I'll have to get one of them - you got one going? Might need a door handle too, mine seems to have seized, although I did dismantle it and it just looks like that rod with the helper spring on the shaft has got stuck. I might just strip the spring off and keep the rod so that it doesn't 'soft close' but we'll see

[rikky 37]

Well I'm really struggling to find a valance at a sensible price! Found a full Gentry bumper on eBay but it's got all the fog lights and strip etc but they won't split it, will consider it but keeping (limited) options open. Found a company called Castleford Auto Panels but they never seem to answer their phones whtsoever which is annoying to say the least

 

My main concern at the moment is refitting my door locks seems to be a major ballache. The door being freshly painted I think is causing the lock to not go "in" far enough so that the clip behind will hold it onto the door skin. So whilst the lock will pass through the skin into the hole flush etc, I just cannot get the metal clip to it in the groove too. To be fair, I imagine it to be a struggle regardless as there only looks to be about 2mm there - so that's for the door and the metal clip, which is going to be tight. My door with fresh paint and without the lock looks to be about 2.5mm thick which I didn't think was an issue really

 

Even removing the plastic seal/washer thing doesn't seem to make any odds

 

Unless ofcourse the clip goes another way, but I'm fairly certain it doesn't, as it'll only sit in the channel, and push from front to rear of the car with the upward angled part.

 

Hrmph. Not amused at the moment

 

Ideas welcome. My main options are going to be sanding the door's paint layer right down and getting it done again, or removing some of the lock mechanism but there doesn't look to be much scope there

 

I did notice on ServiceBox two different part numbers though for the lock securing fork.. not sure if this is relating to anything, but I'm using all the old stuff anyway that matches the locks

 

Or, I could devise a new locking fork somehow. That might be an idea.

Edited August 4, 2015 by rikky

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Richard,

 

I'm not sure if this shot will help or not, but we put several coats onto the doors and it wasn't a problem, perhaps the thickness of the fork maybe different on each side..wacky idea but it's all I can think of.

 

[rikky 37]

Thanks, I've managed to do the passenger side tonight after a fresh look at it. What I did was get my Dremel and shave a miniscule amount from the channel by putting a 2mm diamond wheel in there and just opening it up a tiny tiny amount. I've had to lose the washer on the outside of the door but might revisit it tomorrow and take a touch more off so I can add the washer. I've cleaned the inside of the lock hole on the inside of the door skin up where paint has just gone into the inside a touch, but this will need a touch of Kurust or paint or something on to keep the water away.

 

It's definitely because the paint is too thick by about 1mm

[rikky 37]

I won't lie.. I've been very lethargic getting the motivation to carry on with this, but this weekend was a big one

 

We got all the brakes plumbed in and bled up, handbrake cables in, fuel tank all back in, exhaust and fittings all back in, front driving lights wired up, couple of niggles sorted and the horns up and running. I'm amazed to admit that after 5 years it's now a fully running car, bar a couple of small niggles I'm sure we can iron out.

 

Things to do:

> fit driver door handle and look at lock gasket issue (as above post)

> fit a couple of pipe clips in the engine bay

> see if the judder setting off at low revs in first is anything serious

> investigate squeel, potentially belt or water pump related (wasn't present last time it ran!)

> tacho goes up a bit when the sidelights are on, presuming the earth or something behind the tacho where the wire was soldered on to get the RPM working

 

Needs a good wash as it's not been touched since it was completely repainted and sat in my garage for a year covered in dust.

 

Towed it back on an A-frame with my newest addition to the fleet which made mince meat of it

 

Pretty much everything is brand new on it so am assuming it's going to be a reliable little thing but here's to hoping.

 

Battery box in the bay needs putting in and the ECU mounting but just small stuff really.. oh and washer jets plumbed in

 

Plug and play diesel twinfan is working flawlessly too which I'm impressed with.

 

Couple of photos:

 

 

 

 

Edited October 2, 2016 by rikky

[barneys66 123 1 Cars]

Wow, looks stunning - achingly close now, keep it up!

 

Oh, and bet that's the last time it'll be stuck behind a BMW :oD

Edited October 3, 2016 by barneys66

[rikky 37]

Well.. not much passes that BMW Bloody quicker than it looks

Edited October 3, 2016 by rikky

[roland rat 11]

Well done Rikky looks absolutely stunning!

[rikky 37]

Been finishing the tiny other last bits like battery mounting in the boot, tidying a few small bits up and installing new door speakers so that's kept me busy for the past few weeks/months on and off..

 

So finally today was the day it was finally dug out and thrown into an MOT, and it passed without an advisory or anything - have honestly never had so many looks by people on the road and so many comments about it in the short space I've been in it. MOT tester(s) were fascinated by the condition of it which I'm really happy with.

 

Had one minor issue of water appearing in the boot but looks to have been the gap where the plastic rear hatch panel pokes through (the plastic peg) into the hatch skin itself. Quick bead of sealant around it and it seems to be bone dry now.

 

So guess the last thing to do is to thrash it around some B-roads and enjoy it. Might consider buying all the seat fabrics from Dave H at some point and retrim them but they're more than good so I'm going to leave it for now

 

Never really gave it any beans when testing it back in the summer, but jesus christ it shifts now, the torque in 3rd gear is ridiculous. Really picks up effortlessly and hits 80mph with ease.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2017 by rikky

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Just for info, the plastic hatch trim peg should have a foam washer between the trim panel and the paint to seal, then a push on star washer inside the tailgate to hold it tight.

[Leslie green 110]

Looks great now well done on getting it in for Mot at last .

[barneys66 123 1 Cars]

Great news - time to enjoy !!

 

Has the ride height settled any..?

[rikky 37]

Just for info, the plastic hatch trim peg should have a foam washer between the trim panel and the paint to seal, then a push on star washer inside the tailgate to hold it tight.

 

Ah good shout, I had wondered about the sealing of it. The silicon is holding/keeping it water tight for now nicely anyway so will see how that goes

 

Looks great now well done on getting it in for Mot at last .

 

I asked the MOT tester to wipe his feet before he got in it

 

Great news - time to enjoy !!

 

Has the ride height settled any..?

 

Well, in some angles it looks fine, but others it just looks a tough high, maybe 20mm too high from what I can see. I will see what happens in the next few weeks, might be tempted to throw a set of some -20mm springs just on the front and leave the back as it is.