Fitting Bbm Top Engine Mount

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

Hello, just fitted my new mount to my car, used a chisel to knock anti clockwise and knocked the mount off. Just fitted my new one, again chiselled around the new mount. I marked the metal lip which can't be helped as this is part of the procedure , how tight does it need to be? I've tightened it with the chisels a couple of times but thinking it doesn't need to be mega tight??? Am I wrong? Thanks

[dcc 855]

Needs to be tight enough not to move.

 

leave it as it is and check in a few days

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

Yeah cheers, was thinking that. What's the best way to tighten it? I hardly use the car so I will check it it in a few weeks.

[dcc 855]

mine was hand tight

[welshpug 1,657]

they should be a lot more than hand tight, there is a special tool for them, tightening torque is 30 lbft / 40 Nm, it is not listed in the 205 haynes manual.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I have used a strap wrench around the mount to tighten them before now

[dcc 855]

I've only ever done them as tight as I can by hand - have yet to have an issue! best bet to go with what been said above!

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

New top mount and buffers came from BBM... there is about 10mm-15mm gap between the existing buffers and the mount so needs done...

I remember dismantling the mounting arm from the top mount a few years back for engine clearance when fitting a 4 branch exhaust manifold but trying to get the bolts back in wasn't easy, engine was supported on a jack to help etc. Haven't fitted a top mount and buffers before, anyone done one recently and know the best method?

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Support engine with jack under sump, just take weight, remove the top mount arm, its got to come off to make space to change the mount. Undo old mount, use a strap/chain wrench or beat it with a chisel.

Fit new mount, then as the Haynes says, "reassembly is the reverse of removal".

Sometimes you need to pull the engine towards you a bit to line up the top mount but thats about all there is to it.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Tom, as I thought, it's always good to check though... thanks

The original OE mount wasn't so bad when removed although I was looking at the gap between the arm and the foremost buffer...

OE mount has 5mm allen key fitment but required light knocking back with a driver/chisel to undo.

BBM mount went back with a torx bit and chisel...

Although still a small gap between the foremost buffer and arm...

In comparing the two mounts though, the lateral movement on the OE mount is obvious where on the BBM mount there is none that I can detect, I understand more now how the mount actually works in controlling movement and it has nothing to do with the buffers... a mistake we made in the past was to fill the gaps with material thinking this would stop the engine moving so much, so I learned tonight that I threw the "anti-bang springs" away thinking they were an attempt at shims by previous owner. NB: The sunroof and trim vibrates now, as does the steering wheel and triangle part of the dashboard, hopefully this will settle down a little in use... exhaust manifold knocking on the floor has been cured though, so I'm happy about that.

[Tom205GTC 0]

I have fitted a big o-ring on the backsides of the buffers (between the buffer and the (red, in your case) chassis. This moves the buffers towards the engine mount and limits the movement as well.