Rebuilt / Exchange Rear Beams - Calling All Suppliers

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

The rear beam on my daily driver 1.6 has lasted all of 3000 miles since it was rebuilt (by a supposedly reputable company), so I need to get someone to look at it that actually knows what they're doing.

 

I've seen the usual trusted names (miles,anthony,tom fenton, etc) again and again in searches but dont know if you are all still doing this and where you are all based. I'm in Bedfordshire and ideally I'd like to swap my beam for a rebuilt one over a weekend so I can stay on the road. I fitted the last one so could either get one delivered or drive to you and swap or rebuild.

 

All brakes and mounts etc were new 3000 miles ago so really just need tube and bearings etc. And swap over. I hope!

 

If you could post here or message me you email or phone numbers that would be great and I'll contact you direct.

 

Thanks

 

Ben

[Anthony 1,002]

3000 miles from a rebuilt beam? That's dire!

 

I don't really tend to get involved too much these days doing beams other than the odd one for friends.

 

If you're Bedfordshire way, closest person I can think of that might be able to help is Alastairh who's rebuilt a few and is only in Kettering. If you don't mind travelling I'd be confident in both Miles and Tom doing an excellent job.

 

Don't get spooked.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

What is the problem with what you have? Play in the trailing arm to beam tube on one side (or both?)

 

Might be easier if you bring the car, I have tools to replace the tube bearings in situ.

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

Thanks Anthony.

 

Tom the reason for posting is that over the last 2-300 miles the steering has got noticeably lighter (non-pas rack) and the rear feels like it wants to come round if cornering quickly on roundabouts for example. It also felt like it was riding on the bumpstops at the back and has some metallic rattling coming from the rear whilst driving.

 

I've just done some checks this afternoon and I'm now a bit confused. Jumped up and down in the boot and the car has springing on the back. Moves 2-3 inches i would say. No noises. I did it without the handbrake on. Put the car on axle stands using the beam tube and I could move each arm an inch or two,. All smooth and no noises. Used a trolley jack to move the arms up whilst still on stands and they went up smoothly and the car stayed still. The rear ride height has not changed as far as i can tell. All bolts are tight.

 

Just to confirm I have rebuilt the car with the tried and tested bilstein/eibach combination on the front and uprated xsara dampers on the rear plus solid mounts. I re-indexed the beam after getting it refurbished/exchanged, so the usual 30mm or so drop all round. Car has been handling fantastic, just like the go kart I hoped for.

 

Any ideas what I should check next?

[welshpug 1,656]

I'd be checking front wishbone bushes and balljoints, also the specific ride height and clearance to the bump stops.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You want to try for play side to side in each direction around 360 degree's to check for play with the wheel on as it gives more leverage

[jackherer 543]

has some metallic rattling coming from the rear whilst driving.

 

It's not the anti roll bar end plate bolts coming loose is it?

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

Thanks guys. I'll check all those things.

 

Welshpug, I'd just ordered new driveshafts so I'll be checking all the front suspension when I do that job. However, I replaced all the front suspension 3000 miles ago too. Only the hubs and calipers are original.

 

Regarding the clearance to the bump stops, is there a standard gap? I haven't cut downthe rubbers yet. Could it be sitting on these during cornering because they are too long now as its 30mm lower. If so how much should I shorten them by? Its confusing as the car has been running really well.

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

jackherer, the arb end plates look tight against the arms but I'll check the bolts tomorrow.

[welshpug 1,656]

I wouldn't cut them at all, but it might be lower than you think.

 

standard torsion bars?

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

Yes...well as far as i know. Its supposed to be standard bars and arb. The car sits level to very very slightly higher at the front but you have to look hard to see it. Standarda wheels and tyres.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I would suspect oval hub ball joint clamps from your description. Also check for movement in the passenger side end of the steering rack.

From your description of your checks the beam sounds OK to me.

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

Thanks Tom. What type of movement am i looking for in the rack? In an out, 'widening' the track so to speak?

[allye 530 3 Cars]

go 3 and 9 o clock and shake, if you can look behind or get a friend to with a torch, also do 12 and 6 o clock.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Regarding the clearance to the bump stops, is there a standard gap? I haven't cut downthe rubbers yet.

This is the clearance between the trailing arm & standard rear bumpstop on kezzer's car when I rebuilt his beam a couple of years ago, lowered approx 30mm;

 

 

The car from side on;

 

 

From what I can remember we had a good 40mm+ gap with 1/2 tank of fuel in.

 

g

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

Thanks pug_ham. Very useful. Mine looks the same from the side. I'll get checking underneath.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Thanks Tom. What type of movement am i looking for in the rack? In an out, 'widening' the track so to speak?

 

Well yes check that, but the bush wear is best checked by turning the rack all the way to "turn right" then grab the rack bar through the rubber boot on the passengers side and try to move it up and down.

[hadders 0 1 Cars]

Thanks Tom.