Catch Tank Advice Needed

[Ams 23 1 Cars]

Hello, having ordered a new TPS, ICV, PCV, silicone hoses, pod filter and cleaning out the TB I'd like for everything to remain clean, so I've been looking into catch tanks. After searching through a number of older threads, I see a few different approaches but due to the dates of the threads pics are missing (or they're of an MI16).

• Can anyone with an RS engine show me a recent pic on how they did it?
• Also is it critical for the catch tank to be baffled?
• I've also seen pics of numerous bays with catch tanks but the PCV had been removed, I thought this wasn't recommended?

 

Cheers.

[JeffR 51]

After experimenting with different ways to catch any oil vapour and fumes from the cam cover I found best practice is to follow what the manufacturer did.

One of the outlets (1) must drain back to the sump.

The other outlet which usually goes to the throttle body/inlet manifold to be re-burnt and is a form of emissions control, could go to the catch can & be vented to atmosphere. You can use the PCV valve if necessary.

Mount the catch can as high as possible. I've not found it necessary to baffle it.

RFS modified set up suggestion-

[Ams 23 1 Cars]

Cheers for the guide there, should it look something like this then? :

 

 

Is the smell of oil vapour strong using the breather filter like that in the engine bay? Or is it rarely noticeable?

Edited February 27, 2015 by Ams

[welshpug 1,657]

you don't need one on a standard inlet.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

He's right, just chuck it back in.

Mine goes to catch tank, mainly oily condensation and vapour goes to air via a pipe near the wishbone.

It stinks of an over rich engine.

[Ams 23 1 Cars]

Thanks for the replies, so I should route a pipe from the PCV> to the catch tank inlet > from the catch tank outlet just route a pipe down to the bottom?

 

Also I mis-read JeffR's post (apologies), I just now noticed he said one of the outlets from the catch tank should route back to the sump, making the pic I posted incorrect.

 

Saying that, is there any reason why I shouldn't just route the pipe back to the sump as JeffR suggests? Am I right in saying the advantages would be that routing to the sump would prevent both stinky smells and oil hitting the road, BUT the disadvantages would be oil contamination necessitating shorter interval oil changes? Also in this thread, according to Paul_13, venting to atmosphere leads to mayo buildup along the pipework and catch tank?

 

Cheers for the help.

Edited February 27, 2015 by Ams

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

No need to goto the sump as the engine should not breath any oil at all, Old 8v's used this as they did not have too many baffle's in the oil system.

You want to vent the tank to under the car as Simon has said or you will soon get pee'd off with the stink.

[petert 586]

Engines run much better if you don't feed them air poluted with oil vapour. Any oil in the intake hurts hp.

[JeffR 51]

I could have been clearer in the pic I attached & should have removed the breather hoses running back to the throttle body as I vented mine to atmosphere (as mentioned).

 

I hope this helps....

 

[Ams 23 1 Cars]

Sweet, got it now thanks chaps. :thumbs:

[Malc 45]

Ams no need for a catch tank with standard inlet, even on track it's fine, I had to fit one with the sc set up as pissed oil everywhere, any reason your thinking about fitting one?

[Ams 23 1 Cars]

Hey Malc, I considered fitting a catch tank since I binned the previous pod filter, it had oil from the breather system dribble into it and absorb into the cotton element. I'd rather this doesn't happen to the new £120 filter, also I'd rather divert the gunk into a reservoir than back into the inlet, coating all the new sensors I've fitted. It'll also help make the engine a little more responsive due to the air being cleaner/less carbon buildup.