1989 205 Gti 2.0 Graphite Grey

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Acquired a new project off a fellow member so thought it was time to make a start on some of the required work.

 

Firstly brought the car knowing of a few issues that I was aware of a few I've since picked up on and I'm sure some that will come to light but that's the joys of these cars is it not?

 

What I know, suspect and plan to do

Waterpumps leaking, I'm in progress of changing that now so I can then assess the suspected headgasket failure.

 

The master cylinder needs "adjustment" it's currently that close it looks as if the cambelt cover is permanently rubbing camshaft pulley/belt. I have a spare be3 pedal box that I've opened up servo bolt holes to move it up and space it a bit. Not keen on cutting cambelt cover so I'll shave some off the master cylinder as well. Hopefully that'll give enough clearance. Any other suggestions how this can be archived?

 

Looks as the vts engine and box was fitted as one with the original pull type clutch, not an issue but the gearbox mounting bracket looks as though it's hard up against the clutch cable bracket. Considering fitting the spare 306 mount with a bit of work that should leave some space.

 

The clutch cable runs round the front of the engine so I'll be looking at that.

 

It has a twin fan set up wired on a switch so ill use the original diesel fan wiring I have.

 

Tap thermostat housing and fit "bunged" up pipe.

 

Find and fit phase 2 expansion tank, 306 battery and ecu box just out of preference really.

 

Bonnet hinge broken on n/s a job for a bit later along with the front wings, o/s is rusting and both have been replaced at some point and side repeaters fitted in wrong place.

 

I'd be interested if anyone else knows anything else about the car?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Looks alright Matt. Should keep you busy!

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Job 1 water pump done

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

I've got a bonnet hinge you can have if you want I'm only in portsmouth anyway. It'll be white that's the only thing...

 

I don't think you'll have much choice but to cut the cam cover. Mine would never have gone together without cutting it, not in a million years. I had a pedal box shaped wedge made up to tip the pedal box upwards while still maintaining a decent seal all round. Worked well.

 

Photo below is the MK1. Never took a photo of the MK2 but it's similar.

 

[Kezzer30 40 1 Cars]

Looks like a nice project buddy how's the car body wise ? Rust etc?

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Plumbob - it's one of the bolts on the bonnet hinge that's failed unfortunately thanks for the offer though.

Where did you get that wedge made and how much? I managed to get a fair bit of clearance on my other 205 did need to shave some of master cylinder though.

 

Kezzer - body works presentable drivers wings a bit scabby (I suspect both front wings are aftermarket tin foil ones) and some rust in the boot but the usual suspects front inner wings, under rear seat rear bumper mounts and lower b post areas are pretty solid.

 

Made a bit of progress removing pedal box last night, everything's unbolted just need to lower the engine a bit I think to remove it all.

 

Also looks like the clutch cable bracket has been modified to accommodate the standard 205 cable.

[Kezzer30 40 1 Cars]

Not too bad them mines got a few bits In engine bay and bottom of sill where it meets the rear quarter but that's about to be sorted very soon so happy days , good luck with this bud

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Well a little bit of progress moved up and spaced the servo which has allowed a wafer thin gap next to cambelt still plan on shaving some off the master cylinder before last resort and tampering with the cambelt cover.

 

Re routed the clutch cable to run round the back of the engine.

 

Fitted the twin fan set up and wiring to do a way with the manual switch fitted inside.

 

Was a little sluggish to start but ran for a bit whilst I was trying to bleed the air out the cooling system, reconnect the lambda sensor that had been disconnected reason unknown ATM.

 

Car cut out and didn't want to start, battery is definitely low on juice I'm certain I have a charging issue as I don't recall seeing a battery light at all.

 

Next to stick a bit fuel in pretty sure that's why it cut out :/ then get probing with the multimeter.

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Well a couple of few jobs sorted

Sorted the battery light not working due to a wiring issue with the excitor wire on the alternator.

Charged the battery

Added some fuel with the complimentary "nice car mate I use to have one of those"

 

Wasn't happy that the speedo cable very close to the exhaust manifold and after some research on the forum found out there were different speedo cable lengths available. Had a rummage through the boxes of cr@p I can't throw away and found the cable I required

All done an fitted.

 

Took for a spin and checked the fans cutting in all good so far and a little blip of the throttle to see what the vts box is all about, I shall just echo what everyone else says with it compared to the 1.9 be1 box in my other 205 it's simply night and day.

 

Still need to get it in the workshop and have a thorough going over then to decide where to go with it.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Howdy Matt, was good to see you helped out PB.... good on you.

 

will you be keeping this one?

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Always good to meet local members even more so if I can be of assistance.

 

I certainly swaying towards keeping this one and moving the other one on.

This ones definitely better on the body work side the only down is as it'll be used as a daily runner the exhaust is a tad loud for my liking and the suspension could do with coming up a bit.

 

 

Going to start searching out a vts rack an add some power steering.

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Decided to bite the bullet and drive it into work today, even with the hour of near enough stand still traffic no signs of overheating although the gauge sits higher than my other one it came down happily when the fans cut in.

 

I think the gauge or sensor is a little over sensitive as checking the pipes and rad with a digital thermometer the gauge was reading much higher than the thermometer was telling me.

 

Did have a bit of a problem selecting gears as I hadn't adjusted the clutch cable up after re routing it.

 

Had a good look over and it appears that the headgasket has been replaced fairly recently, carried out a sniffer test and all looks good so at present Im 99% sure there's not an issue there .

 

Ran it home this evening with a little more confidence until the side lights and dash lights kept cutting out.

I hoping this'll turn out to be a dodgy light switch.

 

Couple of jobs off the list and a couple more on it.......

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Mine reads approx somewhere between these two arrows if that helps...

 

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Mines reads similar to PB's, maybe a smidgen lower on both accounts.

 

There is an image somewhere of a euro dash? that shows the degrees printed on the gauges if you want to know the exact temp the gauges are showing, albeit probably not very accurate.

 

You seem to be cracking on with it.

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

I may be wrong but I'm sure it's similar to the oil pressure gauges you could have a dozen cars with similar set ups all reading different.

I will double check but I'm sure as mine approached the line pbs shows it never got above 90c ish

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Yeah that sounds about right Matt, the fan should kick in around 88 iirc.

 

I was actually thinking of changing my rad switch to bring fan in slightly lower......another job.

[Anthony 1,003]

There is an image somewhere of a euro dash? that shows the degrees printed on the gauges if you want to know the exact temp the gauges are showing, albeit probably not very accurate.

 

I think that's what you were after

[welshpug 1,657]

are you using the 205 or the 306 sender?

[Anthony 1,003]

Yeah that sounds about right Matt, the fan should kick in around 88 iirc.

 

I was actually thinking of changing my rad switch to bring fan in slightly lower......another job.

The standard red banded radiator thermoswitch fitted to later 205 GTi's is 97 degrees for the slow speed and 102 degrees for the high speed fan from memory.

 

I run the purple banded switch on mine which is 92 degrees slow and 97 high, although I've bridged the slow speed so that it comes on high speed straight away. That's fine and keeps the temperature from climbing in traffic, at the cost of the fans being on sooner, but there is one important consideration to keep in mind.

 

205 GTi-6's seem in my experience seem to run a little hotter than the temperature rating of the thermostat, I assume down to the different pipework routing compared to an 8v/Mi16. With a standard thermostat, if you run the cooler thermoswitch you run the risk that the fan switch off temperature (87 degree on the purple banded switch) is actually lower than the normal running temperature of the engine - meaning that the fan either won't switch off or takes a long time to do so!

 

I'm running a cooler 77 degree 'stat in mine (actually runs around 82-83 degree judging from the gauge using a 205 sender) so it's fine, but with the original 'stat I had issues with the fan not turning off ever in traffic.

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

I'm running the 306/vts senders.

I took the rad and complete wiring assembly of the diesel 205 so running the twin fans an look to be a purple banded rad fan switch.

 

My gauge runs a little more either way compared to pbs photo above.

[welshpug 1,657]

306 senders are different resistance to 205 iirc.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Yeah thats the one Anthony.

 

Think thats the first set of clocks i've seen that reads 0 RPM

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Does Ecp do the 77c thermostat and 1.4bar cap?

Anyone know the part no by chance?

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Today's progress removed bonnet,wiper and scuttle to gain access to the n/s hinge with a broken bolt.

Turns out the rear bolt/pivot was seized solid as well.

Freed off and removed the hinge completely so I can drill and tap the broken bolt tomorrow.

 

Removed the thermostat housing and as I was heading up to the engineers thought I'd get them to add the t-piece into the bleed screw hole so I can fit the top right hand expansion tank hose to it.

Hoped they do it while I waited but he told me he'd sort it tomorrow! Some bloody people lol

 

Also found it had fitted this uprated super modified thermostat think I'll be changing that for a more standard one so if anyone wants to buy this one it's up for sale!

 

Ordered new 1.4bar expansion cap and thermostat for tomorrow couldn't get a 77 but they've got me a 74 coming so I'll see how that fairs up.

 

I'm going to see if I can find some time tomorrow to start attacking the rust in the boot floor .........

Edited February 17, 2015 by Mattr5uk

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Collected the thermostat housing from the engineers today and fitted that along with the a new 75 degree stat and expansion cap.

 

Ran up fine, fan cut in and out quite happily even holding it at fast idle, did seem that the coolant hose from the rad to the thermostat did feel a bit more pressurised than I'd like and after leaving the car for 5 mins or so still seemed a fair bit of pressure when removing the cap.

Can't really get away from that niggling headgasket suspicion.

 

Didn't get time to drill out the bonnet hinge bolt so couldn't get it out on a run today that'll be tomorrow's first job.