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mowflow

Locking/jamming The Flywheel

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mowflow

Hello, I'm about to do my timing belt and water pump. Ive read all the tips I can find on here and have read the Haynes manual. I'm wondering what the best/safest way of locking the crank is. Much of my engine bay is stripped so access to the flywheel is pretty good. I don't know if that's a benefit or a hindrance in terms of jamming something in there.

 

Any tips or details on a method would be appreciated. I did briefly try a chisel jammed in the top with the shaft against the gearbox housing but when I applied a small bit of pressure it popped off and dropped into the bell housing. A fun afternoon of fishing with some wire. If it helps I'll be using a rattle gun on the 22mm bolt.

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scbond

Try using the chisel again but at the bottom of the flywheel. Remove the bottom cover to expose it and put it across the teeth in the corner at either the front or the back. That should hold it but if it doesn't then it'll just fall to the floor rather than in the bell housing.

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mowflow

The cover is off but I don't really know how I can jam it from their. I'll have a go at sticking some things in tomorrow and will maybe take some pics so you can advise where I'm going wrong.

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welshpug

a large screwdriver is better than a chisel as it will fit nicer between the teeth.

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scbond

If you jam it in at the rear edge of the exposed part of the flywheel and then rotate the crank bolt clockwise it should hold it and lock it still. Rotating the crank anti-clockwise from the bolt will loosen it and cause the screwdriver to fall out. Additionally you could try locking it through the crank pulley.

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welshpug

never try and lock using the crank pulley, you'll just break stuff, usually the slot for timing the engine up as its just a thin alloy webbing

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petert

Nice link Jeff. I made one but for that price I couldn't be bothered.

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Tom Fenton

If your gun is any good you don't need to lock it, just rattle the bolt off.

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petert

Tightening it properly is the issue.

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Tom Fenton

Agreed, it needs locking to torque the bolt up, but a large flat blade driver in the ring gear has always worked for me.

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mowflow

Its the Clarke one that a few people on here mentioned for doing the job. It was dirt cheap but supposedly up to the job.

 

Tom, so can I just peg the top pulley then rattle the bottom on without locking it? I currently have both holes pegged with cut 10mm drill but I was aware that relying on a bolt/drill etc in the bottom would result in damaging the block.

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Tom Fenton

Remove both pegs, rattle the bolt off. Then by hand with a spanner realign the pegs. The bolt is now loose enough that you can rattle it off and stop the pulley moving with your hand.

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lagonda

Probably not worth doing specially, but if you have the sump off, a piece of wood/hammer or mallet handle between a crank throw and crank case is an alternative.

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mowflow

The sump is actually off at the moment but as I have no idea what you mean its probably best I don't go jamming foreign objects up in their.

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pug_ham

I'm wondering what the best/safest way of locking the crank is.

Imo as you requested the "Best & safest method for locking the crank" is by use of a proper flywheel locking tool as suggested in the topics covering doing this job.

 

They can be found for under £5 iirc on ebay so hardly much & you won't find a better way to hold everything solid whilst you both undo & also torque the crank pulley bolt back up to the correct torque.

 

g

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lagonda

The sump is actually off at the moment but as I have no idea what you mean its probably best I don't go jamming foreign objects up in their.

OK..if you turn the crankshaft, you will see (with the sump off!), the connecting rods will describe an arc....this is the means by which the vertical movement of the pistons is turned into rotational force. As you turn, the side of the connecting rods will move near the inner face of the crankcase. You just need to place a piece of clean wood in that space as you turn...obviously you'll need to find a piece of wood of a suitable thickness. Turn the crank until it holds the piece of wood...then undo your nut.

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James Cornell

Good shout lagonda, I had to do that when I had a bare engine with the flywheel off

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Grim.Badger

Another way, on a bare engine (no gearbox or flywheel), is to hold the bolt washer with a pair of mole grips whilst undoing the bolt. It doesn't sound as if it would work, but it does.

 

I doubt this would work for tighteneing up though - I used it to retrieve a better condition pulley from an engine I use for spare parts (and so didn't have to worry too much about damaging anything).

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mowflow

Bought one of those wee devices posted by JeffR, thanks for the link. Used my £19 Amazon rattle gun and couldn't believe how easy it took the bolt off. Best £19 i've ever spent.

 

Problem is getting the bloody pulley off now. I seem to have one of the ones that's welded in place.

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Tom Fenton

Small 3 leg puller will do the job easily. Once it is off dress the shaft with emery to make the pulley a tight but sliding fit on the shaft.

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dobboy

I got one of these after seeing your link. Used it a lot at the weekend, great little tool, although not sure it could be used without a gearbox on, but maybe it could.

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mowflow

With or without the gearbox on there is a little gap just up from the starter motor that is a perfect size for putting that locking tool in. There is a bolt that goes into the block that hold a little guard over the fly wheel. I removed that and bolted the locking device in instead. Even with the box off that works.

 

Thanks Tom. yet another tool i need to buy. This rebuild is costing as much in tools for single jobs as it is in parts.

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JeffR

I got one of these after seeing your link. Used it a lot at the weekend, great little tool, although not sure it could be used without a gearbox on, but maybe it could.

You can use it to torque up the flywheel & clutch bolts by fitting it to the front top gearbox-to-engine bolt hole with an M10 bolt.

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