Mot Fail...few Issues That I Need Help With

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

So, took the car for it's MOT today at the nearest place...a Halfords Autocentre. That was a bit of a mistake in the first place!

 

Anyway, there's a few items it failed on...

 

Brake imbalanced across an axle [3.7.B.5b] - 50%.

They told me this was the front. Could this be the sliders are seized? Tried searching and found a number of issues. The brakes seem fine to me and the car doesn't really pull to either side while braking. I did have a brakes issue in recent months...went away and left the handbrake on for just under a week. When I came back it was sticking on the N/S rear. I had a slightly spongy pedal which wasn't there before and can't seem to clear it. The sticking issue eventually cleared but then I lost a pad and it snapped the caliper (mechanic supposedly fixed it but ignored the broken disc and it happened again). Not sure how to fix the issue...whether it's the master cylinder or something like sticking sliders?

 

O/S steering rack gaiter insecure [2.2.D.2d]

Could this mean there's a tear in it or that it's come adrift? Sorry, haven't had chance to actually have a look.

 

Exhaust emits a dense blue smoke at idle [7.3.A.2b]

I didn't think it was that bad to be honest. I do lose oil a bit but assumed this was down to a leak that generally happens after getting the engine hot. Think I know this one though...valve stem seals?

 

It also failed on the headlight angle and battery being insecure. Already ordered a new battery clamp (is it really just that small piece of metal and a small bolt or should there be a tray and brace over the top?).

 

Advice is greatly appreciated as I don't want to get stung too much on this! Needless to say it isn't staying with Halfords for the work...those pirates wanted £170+ to replace the front discs and pads (discs were advisory, pads are new), £190+ to change the rear discs and pads (pads new, one disc new, other disc in good condition), £13 to adjust the headlight and then who knows for the rest!

[hoodygoodwood 70 3 Cars]

The battery clamp is just a triangular steel pressing which forces against the bottom edge of the battery , about £1.50 from Peugeot .

The gaiter being insecure must mean it has no wire clip retaining it , a cable tie is often used - not sure if this is an ok fix .

Pattern headlamps can give you a dodgy beam , should be easy to adjust if you have quality lamps .

I have never had problems with front brakes on 205 / 309 GTI , its normally the rears . Blocked compensators , corroded and stiff handbrake cables , seized or badly adjusted pistons .Like you say could be seized caliper pistons or sliders , its not really a good idea to change just one disc though , that could be causing the imbalance .

Would be interested to see the snapped caliper and broken disc , how did that happen .

The N/S rear sticking problem from before could be related , does the fail sheet definitely say front brake imbalance ?

No1 tool for brake work is the Gunsons easibleed - £20 well spent .

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

If you have advisory on the front discs renew em pads too should fix any imbalance almost 100%

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

I could only get the one disc on the rear at the time so I checked the one staying on to make sure thickness is ok etc. Can't show the broken caliper but the broken disc I can dig pics out tomorrow...it's a sight to behold. My best understanding is that the pad decided to bugger off when I braked and the piston just punched through and the force snapped the carrier.

 

Anyway, the pirates at Halfords definitely said the imbalance was at the front, yet I just went out in it and it brakes straight and true. I guess perhaps there could be more force with the new pads but only owned the car just under 11 months so have no idea how strong it should be on the brakes. The spongy feel/hissing issue goes away with the engine off and a few pumps (as per other threads here) but it didn't do this at all before the handbrake seized. The handbrake seems fine now, and I think the pirates even adjusted it for free, but I have no idea where this imbalance is.

 

Going to nip to a garage tomorrow for a quote on the seals (not looking forward to that). Also going to visit Steve (borufus on here) to see what he reckons. I did text him earlier today about the brakes and he said most likely the sliders seizing slightly. Bit stumped on the brakes though...the rest I get.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Front sliding pin's are known for going rusty, a new set is cheap along with boots as they split and let the water in, If the brake system is std them it's a cross over so any imbalance should show in the back too.

Those prices are silly, Pads and disc's for the back which they would use I guess would cost £30.00 and labour no more than a hour so nice work if you can get it, headlight aim a few seconds, would take longer to write the invoice for.

If it smokes that badly then get a leak down test done, this will show how good the rings and valves are, stem seals generally smoke on start up then goes

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

If it were the rings and not the seals would it not start smoking constantly once warm, regardless of revving or idling? The only time I've seen it give a noticeable amount of blue smoke is when starting it and leaving it to run warm without moving it anywhere. This happened a couple of days before Christmas where I started the car in the garage and left it until the radiator fan came on. Even then, it wasn't noticeably blue as you would normally see.

 

Very occasionally I have seen smoke in a cloud when pulling away from lights (probably only a few times in the time I've owned it) and this would only ever be when the engine wasn't fully warm on a short run. Again, not massively blue.

 

Occasionally there's a smell of burning oil, such as tonight just after making this thread, I got in and drove a few miles and noticed the smell very faintly. No smoke to be seen.

 

I should probably add that it passed emissions at 2.64% CO and 399 ppm HC. The CO could probably do with being a touch lower but well within the 3.5% required.

 

As for the prices, yep...absolutely disgraceful. Scares me to think that some poor suckers out there are paying that when they are getting their parts from the ECP down the road.

 

And finally, the MOT tester clearly cannot read analogue odometers. He put it down as 149,141 when it's actually 139,141...the 3 transitioning to the 4.

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Ok, sounds like no one is trying to sting you.

 

1. Strip and rebuild your calipers, then buy new pads and discs. If the discs are pitted you will have issues.

 

2. Replace the gaiter it probably has a hole or split. Cheap and easy fix.

 

3. Blue smoke on idle once warm is normally valve stem seals. These used to perish around the 60,000 mile mark.

It will release a puff of smoke everytime you pull away.

Rings blow smoke all the time through the rev range.

 

4. Battery clamp - easy - yes it is the small clamp.

 

5. Headlamp - I thought they were obliged to fix this. If not you can line this up yourself against a wall at night, using the good one as a guide.

 

 

Find a garage who can do the seals without removing the head.

I think I paid about £250 - although that was in 2001!!

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

I forgot to have a read through the manual today when I read this earlier, I'm certain with the new mot regs that brake imbalance only plays a part if both brakes on the axle don't lock out. So as miles said it's possible to have a fault with one of the rears to cause an issue with the fronts. See if they will tell you the readings it'll help decipher where fault lies.

 

With regards to the 'emits dense blue smoke' as a tester myself the first thing they tell you on the mot training is an mot is bare minimum, so taking into consideration the age of the car compared to a modern car for me it would have to be that much blue smoke I couldn't see out the rear window to fail. The presenter of the mot should always be given the benefit of the doubt with a pass and an advisory to cover the tester.

Headlight will just be adjustment, I do it as I carry out the mot as it's more of a pain to get it back on the ramp/pit to adjust it.

Rack gaiter insecure will just need re securing and a cable tie will do you could even use a piece of string as long as it's secure.

 

The mileage error I think he's just pressed the wrong number on that one, however you should count yourself lucky an employee of halfords can type better than he can use a tool

[tomcolinjones 26]

with the imbalance, id strip everything down and re assemble with copper grease on all the sliding metal parts. Maybe rough up the face of the pads. Get someone to help you change the brake fluid. That's whad ud do. Have you git the printout for the rbt?

[welshpug 1,657]

no!!

 

copper grease should never go on moving parts, you need red brake grease for the sliders.

[Stu 18]

It all sounds minor stuff relatively speaking with the age of the car, the brake stuff would just be a strip and rebuild with new disks I would say, you don't mention of its a 1600 or 1900...

 

As for headlight aim, it's gotten to be a running joke at my local MOT place as they charge me a tenner every bloody time for this ???? but then the MOT is £35 so I'll take that if it passes...

 

Only major job is the head, my first 1900 used to smoke on blipping the throttle or on the over run and stem seals sorted it, cheap parts, but quite a Labour intensive job sadly...

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

Thanks for all the comments folks. Found a decent mechanic who took one look at the blue smoke and said it shouldn't have failed it (it really isn't that bad...just a bit just after a hard rev). He's going to strip the fronts down and sort out any braking issue, sort the gaiter out and readjust the headlight and then do an MOT on it.

 

Once I get time (probably Easter or even July) I'm going to attempt a seal replacement with the head still on.

[omega 82]

halfords near me failed m y mrs car on no rear seat belts and a hole in the exhaust.i knew about the exhaust small hole in back box about half inch/wen I got it back the hole was at least 3 inches and sounded like a tank! o yes the seat belts were tucked under the seat cushions.

[tomcolinjones 26]

I'm sorry wp, what's the problem with copper slip? Its what i have been using when fitting new pads for over 10 years. 6 of those I was forced to do it as workshop policy.

[welshpug 1,657]

its an anti seize compound not a lubricant, hence never use it on moving parts.

 

it also dries out pretty stiff when given heat.

 

10 years of doing it wrong

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Red rubber grease anywhere metal meets a rubber seal or boot.

Copper grease on the back of the pads or a dab where the pad backplate sits in a cast caliper carrier is fine in my book.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You can always tell a (Sorry for this) 'mechanic' (Only Some) has done work on a car as copper grease can be everywhere which as said isn;t the best, There are loads of grease's for different things, you just need to look up which does what then you can tell who ever (Mind they may get upset) that it's wrong

[tomcolinjones 26]

I guess I have been. Guess ill have to get me some silicone grease.

 

isn't it strange that I've been doing it for so long without anyone ever suggesting otherwise. :/ every day is a new lesson learned

Edited January 18, 2015 by tomcolinjones

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

I guess I have been. Guess ill have to get me some silicone grease.

 

isn't it strange that I've been doing it for so long without anyone ever suggesting otherwise. :/ every day is a new lesson learned

 

Red brake grease on the moving brake parts, copper grease on bolt threads and contact points and silicone grease for boots/gaiters etc.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

 

copper grease on bolt threads

 

I use threadlock on all mine for obvious reasons

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Yes never use grease on threads, these should be thread locked as they are from the factory or if you buy new Pug bolts they come with the locking compound on, Or lock wire them on

[scbond 15 1 Cars]

 

I use threadlock on all mine for obvious reasons

 

Good point. To be honest I've never had a need to and have only really used copper grease on threads where bolts are likely to seize. Once I get the old airbox bolts in the manifold drilled out I'll be greasing them up plenty if the heat permits it.

[aldworth33 45 1 Cars]

On halfords autocentres it' the same as most companies with numerous branches I know the one in Darlington is a great garage that look after their customers for a fact, can't tar them all with the same brush as I also know there are some shocking centres too.

I don't work there just know all the staff in Darlington and seen them going unreal amounts out of their way to help customers out.

 

Also on the grease discussion I trained at Delphi Lockheed and was told always use the red (or sometimes blue) grease provided and they make AP brakes so know there stuff but one place I worked they told me I had to copper grease everything (wheel nut/bolt, driveshaft threads, caliper slides the lot!) and when I refused they tried lecturing me in how to do things properly, but I always kept myself right and taught the apprentices how it should be done so at least they knew

[tomcolinjones 26]

is copper grease harmful? Surely its better Tha nothing on sliders and back of the pads if they don't have anti rattle backings? I didn't know these other lubes existed, I haven't got a problem with being told how to do things properly.

[aldworth33 45 1 Cars]

It's dries up and goes solid after a little while so actually hinders the sliders. It's better than nothing for a few weeks but after a few months it'll start drying up