Modified 8V First Start/running In

[koti 7]

I have just finished rebuidling my 1.9 8v engine- basic spec is:

 

1.9 crank & conrods

1.6 pistons with new rings (liners honed)

Newman PH4 cam and double valve springs

Weber 45 carbs

 

Thrust, crank main and big end bearings are all new and all seals have been replaced

 

Early next year (i.e. before the hill climb season starts!) I plan to go to a standalone ECU for ignition, however, I'm struggling to justify the cost of that until February/March time realistically; so currently I've just got the standard dizzy for ignition.

 

I've just got soem new rad/oil cooler mounts to fabricate then hopefully I'll get the engine back in this weekend/early next week.

 

This is the first engine that I have rebuilt so extensively (and changed from original spec so much!) so I am a bit concerned about starting it for the first time and getting it run in.

 

My biggest worry is the ignition side of things and gettting it running on the standard dizzy with the raised compression- I'm not bothered about power in the slightest as that will come with the ECU, but at the same time I don't want to cause any damage to engine by the ignition timing being miles out. Will it be possible to get the engine running well enough on the standard dizzy to be able to run it in? Would it be worth spending the £50 to get the advance curve on the dizzy altered by H&H?

 

Once it's running I suppose it's just a matter of getting out in it straight away and getting the rings bed in by alternating between power/coasting, keeping it off idle for the first half an hour or so to protect the cams (though the information sent through by Newmans with the cam says the cam doesn't need running in!)?

[petert 588]

Yes, just don't wind on any more than 10 deg static. Maybe less if it pings.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Personally despite what they may say I 'd also knock the cam in before doing anything else. 2500rpm for 20 min, do not allow it to idle.

I've seen the result of a camshaft and follower that picked up, not only is the cam scrap, but the follower debris then goes round the rest of your newly built motor taking lumps out of the shells and scrapping the oil pump. Not worth the risk!

[petert 588]

I concur. It's so easy to destroy a new cam and lifters with modern zinc free oil. Buy some Break In Lube ie Crane, Compcams etc. Pour the entire container in, or better still, tip over the cam/buckets before start up. If it springs a water leak, shut down, fix, then return to 2000 for remaining time. As Tom said, no idling.