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dobboy

Engine Stand

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dobboy

Can someone tell me how an engine stand works?

 

How do you get the engine up on to it? And down from it?

 

How is the engine fixed to it?

 

TIA

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GilesW

Lift it, or engine crane.

Bolt its mount to flywheel end of block first (or however you want).

Use m8 threaded bar.

 

Dead obvious really if you look at pics of them (and ones with engines on them!!). Lol

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allye

Engine crane normally, or some strong friends.

 

You use large bolts that go through the engine stand to the gearbox mounting points, usually 4 or 5.

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dobboy

Thanks, I wasn't sure if you bolted it to the engine then somehow manoeuvred it up.

 

Cheers

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mrfirepro

Best to bolt the engine to the fixing plate, when the engine is supported by the hoist, then mate the tubular sections....here is a photo if it helps..

 

P1030513_666x500.jpg

 

 

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Kane

Agreed with above, a combination of threaded bar and bolts onto the gearbox mounting holes worked for me.

 

As for getting it up onto the stand, go and grab yourself a handful of spinach and Popeye it up while someone fits the bolts.

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309jazzpanda

I thought it was nearly in dob boy

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dobboy

Jazz panda, the engine has been in, car finished and ran for 1500 miles, and the HG is away.

 

So I'm having to replace it.

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chipstick

To get it up there - Remove the head, manifolds, aux bracket, alternator etc whilst on the deck. The block alone you'll be able to lift up easily enough.

 

To get it down - presumably that's at the stage you'd be ready to fit it to the car and thus have a crane at hand. I've lifted a GTi6 engine down complete by hand- and I really wouldn't want to do it again :lol:

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dobboy

chip, i'm replacing my engine. My new engines coming bare and i was contimplating buying a stand to make it easier to clean/paint etc, and then swap over all my stuff on to it. I'm surprised how cheap the stands are.

 

I need to borrow a crane to get mine out, so i guess it means i borrow it for a little longer, to get the new one on to the stand.

 

MrFirePro, thats a very nice looking engine you have there, did you use VHT spray?

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Tom Fenton

Why not just pull the head on the one in the car, have the head skimmed and fit a new gasket and bolts?

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welshpug

Certainly what I would do given you know its a decent runner, no need for an engine crane or stand, cheaper than buying another engine which WILL need a gasket if it hasnt had one already, and if it HAS, then hope to hell it wasn't done in Leicester!

 

 

Thinking back, it IS what I did with my ZX, I knew the engine as it had been in there for about 6k miles, I chose to have the valve cutouts made bigger and threw some rings and big ends in as well, came in at less than the cost of another engine.

Edited by welshpug

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dobboy

 

Why not just pull the head on the one in the car, have the head skimmed and fit a new gasket and bolts?

I've already bought the engine and the kind of work you are talking about is/was beyone me and i imagine it's very awkward.

 

I had planned to take my existing engine out over the winter to fit a quicker rack and Gbox, possibly PAS and repaint servo thing, but the HG problem just brought the plans forward.

 

My engine loom plugs into a plug on the NS wing, a few nuts and bolts and i'll have the engine whipped out in no time, transfer the loom and bits accross to the other engine, drop it in, bolt it up, job done...... which would be quicker than me messing about with the head, trying to fit the box and rack on car etc etc.

 

 

I could maybe then look at getting the HG fixed on that one for punting or for spare.

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wicked

Agreed with above, a combination of threaded bar and bolts onto the gearbox mounting holes worked for me.

 

As for getting it up onto the stand, go and grab yourself a handful of spinach and Popeye it up while someone fits the bolts.

 

Take the fixing plate from the stand (remove the bar) and fix it to the engine first. Then you don't have fit the bolts while your friends are holding up the engine.

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mrfirepro

Jack,

 

I had it aquablasted first, they used hycote engine enamel (aluminium) then baked it for 2 hours at 220 degrees.

 

I would think that if you wanted to do your engine up, then a stand is essential, mine was an ebay purchase and when you get it, it's very obvious how it gets used.

 

Just remember the lifting eyes are fitted to the head, so if you want to lift the engine out you need to have the head in place.

 

Also if your borrowing/buying an engine hoist, get an adjustible tilt mechanism as it makes it so much easier, I struggled for ages before buying one, now it's quite easy.

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chipstick

XU10J4RS isn't it?

 

Take the right hand breather pipe off before you lift it out if you're using chains on the lifting eyes. They often split when the eye is pulled in with the weight.

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dobboy

Cheers mrfire, the last engine I done (the knacked one) I got all steel brakets etc blasted and powdered. The Alu stuff I done by hand and sprayed with VHT, Alu or clear. I baked it the first time I ran it lol

 

Not sure about the 8v but you can see the paint slowly loose its dazzle through heat and road dirt.

Chip, good call on the pipe, I know exactly where you mean.

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Dizzee stuff

If your engine is a good runner why not just change the head gasket, easy to do. Your new engine is it a fresh overhauled unit or a good s/hand unit.

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dobboy

Hi Dizzee, the new engine is a 72k Xsara engine, (which by all accounts are less subject to a thrashing compared to the GTI6). The guy who sold me it knows these engines well and say's it's a good engine, it's not overhauled. I know there's still an element of risk.

 

The engine with the HG problem was previously in a track car before i got it but at the time i was looking for an engine it was the only one available. It does run very good, quiet, pulls well etc, but has this HG problem. I've not got the know how to sort the HG, but i know i can change an engine. I had intended to take the engine out anyway to change box amongst other things, and when i weighed up the cost/hassle factor of fixing the HG engine, i felt a different (hopefully better) engine was the easiest option (for me).

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Tom Fenton

Hi Dizzee, the new engine is a 72k Xsara engine, (which by all accounts are less subject to a thrashing compared to the GTI6).

 

I have got some marvellous magic beans here, only £100 to you.

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Dizzee stuff

I was only thinking all these engines are getting on & you could be faced with the same problem a little further down the line after all your hard work, lets hope not.

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GLPoomobile

Why not just pull the head on the one in the car, have the head skimmed and fit a new gasket and bolts?

 

The same thing crossed my mind, but to be fair, I can see why Dobboy would take this route (accepting of course, the risk that goes with a 2nd hand engine of unknown quality). If he's had the engine in and out umpteen times already, he's comfortable with doing so.

 

I'd be daunted by removing/refitting a 16v head in situ having never done it before. On that basis I reckon I'd prefer swapping whole engines over. But personally I'd probably go for option 3, which would to remove the engine and then have it somewhere more convenient to remove/refit the head. Granted that's more labour, but would feel more doable for me. That way you keep the engine that's known, with a fresh skim and HG on it (maybe even get the head refreshed with new valve seals etc at the same time).

Edited by GLPoomobile

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Malc

Head gasket failure! great excuse for an engine strip down and 2.1 rebuild. Come on there's logic in it.

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dobboy

I've always got the option to get the knacked one attended to by someone who knows what they're doing when its out.

 

Malc, you know there's another one sitting in my garage you can have anytime you like, feel free to take it away and you can tinker with it over the winter?

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Tom Fenton

 

The same thing crossed my mind, but to be fair, I can see why Dobboy would take this route (accepting of course, the risk that goes with a 2nd hand engine of unknown quality). If he's had the engine in and out umpteen times already, he's comfortable with doing so.

 

I'd be daunted by removing/refitting a 16v head in situ having never done it before. On that basis I reckon I'd prefer swapping whole engines over. But personally I'd probably go for option 3, which would to remove the engine and then have it somewhere more convenient to remove/refit the head. Granted that's more labour, but would feel more doable for me. That way you keep the engine that's known, with a fresh skim and HG on it (maybe even get the head refreshed with new valve seals etc at the same time).

If you are capable of lifting the engine in and out, and you have done the cambelt on one before, then you are capable of pulling the head and doing the gasket in situ. Doing the belt down the side is a bit more tricky but take your time and its not beyond the home mechanic at all.

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