Replacing Front Bumper Spoiler And Further Rust.

[analog_addict 1]

Hello,

 

Today I managed to damage my front bumper spoiler (valance?) and lost the grill somewhere on the road. I have a few questions:

 

1. Is this the correct part to replace it with? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141304484454

 

It looks the same but also a little different. My car is a CJ but I assume this part is the right one.

 

2. How do I remove the rusted screws holding the spoiler on? There's zero room to get my hands and tools in. Pictures of screws attached.

 

3. I have found very bad rust on the metal behind the spoiler. The left hand side of this is mush and I reckon I could pull it off with my hands. Is this a serious problem, should I get a bar welded across and how much would that cost? Again pictures attached.

 

Thanks!

 

Edited August 7, 2014 by analog_addict

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

There is a CJ getting broke at SCB in Edinburgh, and its white, not 100% sure but unfortunately I think it had front damage, at least damage to front wing. But maybe worth a call to confirm? ( It also has a very good roof on it.)

 

Access to get valances off is no prob with bumper removed, but that brings its own problems in that you might have to grind and renew bumper fixings.

 

I've got a CJ too, but thinking a GTI front valance would man it up a little lol

 

If I was you I'd go for taking the lot off by removing the 8mm nuts in the inner wings/arches, push the threaded bit through, and hopefully the lot will slide off. Best get a little helper.

 

And I'd be more inclined to try fit/repair/paint a 2nd hand pug part than use a new pattern part.

 

Search for Hadrian panels on net to determine correct part and cost if you want a new pattern part.

[farmer 328 1 Cars]

I have a genuine Pug spoiler for a base model in my loft if that would interest you can take photos ?

 

I find aftermarket ones fit poorly.

 

Wouldn't want much probably the same sort of price as that listing

Edited August 8, 2014 by farmer

[analog_addict 1]

OK. I have tried getting the bumper off in the past and failed. I have a dremel coming along with some of the decent cutting discs, so I should be able to remove the rusted bolts with a little time.

 

Now the very badly rusted metal behind the valance, what's the verdict on that? The left hand side is too far gone for rust treatment and could be pulled off with your hands. Is it worth getting a new piece welded across once I have the bumper and valance off? My friend can weld but he's always busy. My Dad says it's an unimportant part of the car structure and to just ignore it.

 

Cheers.

Edited August 8, 2014 by analog_addict

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Depends how much work you want.

 

Do you want to get rid of the rusty bits? if so you you could buy two headlight panels (£13ish each). I wouldn't fit the complete lot of them as i found it a major task. I'd cut what you need off them, cut the rot out yours, and either weld or rivet in the new sections (if welding is a problem), and stoneguard them heavily at the back and some at the front for good measure. I think these probably rot from stones getting thrown up from the front wheels.

 

Be careful when cutting bumper bolts as if the bolt heats up too much the bumper fixing points will melt.

 

If you don't want the work, paint what you can with rust reverser to try slow the rot down and leave them but you will need to attend to them at some stage.

[analog_addict 1]

Well I've given up removing the bumper but I've managed to remove the valance. Just waiting on my cutting discs to arrive to remove the last little bits. I have a new valance on the way so no problems there.

 

I've been able to get a better look at the rust and it is very bad. Even if not urgent I'm going to get it removed and welded while everything is off.

 

Hopefully my mate will be able to do the job and advise but if not, what's a ballpark figure for someone to fix this? It should be a fairly simple welding job I presume?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Depends on how mobile you freind is, and how willing/capable/skilled you are.

 

It's not a big welding job by any means if you have all the leg work done, and want someone just to arrive and you say "hit it".

 

But these days few people do anything for less than £50 unless you know them in my neck of the woods.

 

From the pics if you want to do it right you'll need to replace the horizontal part below the rad also, which involves dropping the coolant, and removing the rad/fan..... every job evolves!

 

To do it right, buy the full front panel..... (not a fortune @ £80ish IIRC), and crop off what you don't need and get it welded in.

 

 

"One thing leads to another" springs to mind.

 

 

If it's a keeper do it right..... if not, shove your valance on.

[analog_addict 1]

OK thanks for your advice. I have a good idea of what to do now.

 

My final question. Can the little valance clips be bought elsewhere other than in the very expensive bumper fixing kits? I'm sure these are generic clips and not anything Puegeot specific. I'm just not sure what they're called.

 

[acox99 74 1 Cars]

Use 6mm nuts and bolts instead of buying clips. That's what I did anyway.

[analog_addict 1]

Just another thought. If I bought the full front panel, would it be worth paying to get the entire thing fitted rather than chopping and welding it? Guessing it would cost more than it's worth in labour though.

[welshpug 1,656]

itll be as much work fitting a full panel if it needs both headlamp panels anyway, its just the radiator support panel across the bottom which invariably needs the spot welds picking and welding in the right place anyway, but looks like you need one anyway

[m@ttc 30]

Have you checked all the common rust areas on your car? It might pay to check all the areas first to see what type of repaire is suitable for your car and what condition you want the whole vehicle, I'll bet there a lot more to find looking at the condition of your front panel

[analog_addict 1]

First quote is in at £350 I said I can provide the full front panel and they said that's just the welding cost!

 

Does anyone know any reliable welders or bodyshops in the North East. My usual garage doesn't do body repairs.

[farmer 328 1 Cars]

I would have a look elsewhere on the car as stated before.

 

I think you will find more rust and best to get that sorted ASAP.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Analog, maybe they've changed one before and know the work involved, the work itself isn't difficult but it is time consuming, and think you'll be £350 anywhere you go if they're removing your front panel, and £500+ if you want it painted.

 

When i replaced my headlight panels the main problem was where the headlight meets the inner wing, behind indicators.... there is a bonding glue/mastic in there which is a right pain to remove. I also managed to get two dents on my wings trying to break/remove the bond. My panels weren't quite as bad as yours, i had two 50p sized holes, but was feeling energetic. If i had to do it again i would replace the rot only.

 

If you went for full panel replacement you would also have to think about painting, slam panel/bonnet alighnment etc.

 

Easiest option and probably work you could do yourself (excluding the welding) is to only replace what you need to, and stone guard and paint it etc yourself.

 

Looking at your pics (and assuming its solid behind the bumper), I were you i'd be replacing a couple of inches below headlights downwards cut out from a full front panel. But i'd be getting the bumper off to get a decent look at what you've got and to make life easier.

[analog_addict 1]

I have checked for other rust spots in the past. The car has been fairly well undersealed although really it could do with stripping back and doing again. I found rust in one wheel arch and near the jacking points. These have since been treated and were just surface rust. What are the other usual problem areas? Would I need to pull up the carpet? I understand the underseal could be hiding some nasties.

 

I'm going to remove the 2 remaining bolts holding the bumper on if I can although I'm having difficulty still due to the tight space. Does rust remover gel help at all trying to remove rusted bolts? I've tried knocking a smaller socket on and shearing the bolt off but no joy. Any tips on removing the side bolts would be much appreciated.

 

I've decided to let my mate do the welding, he's done a fair bit before on a couple of cars and I don't need it done immediately but I'd like to sort it this month. I just really need to get that bumper off.

[welshpug 1,656]

its often not worth risking damage to the bumper and just cutting the bolts, its just so much quicker and pain free too.

 

get some 1 or 1.2 mm cutting discs, they fly through most stuff.

[analog_addict 1]

Hello again,

 

I've just had another quote for the work but I'm a bit confused

 

 

Upon looking at the image you attached, we feel that the part you are reffering to is known as the front bottom cross member.

Because of the age of your vehicle, this part is only available aftermarket.

Please take note that the panel will be silver and untreated on arrival. If you wish to have the part painted (as the one currently on the vehicle is), furthuer costs will be included. It may be a cheaper option to have the part stone-chipped instead, but please feel free to call us on ---------------- for further information or to book your vehicle in.

Prices are as written below.

Front lower cross member - £160 + vat

Labour @ £45/hour - £160 + vat

Total (not inclusive of paint/stonechipping) - £320.00 + vat

 

 

I thought the cross member was part of the full front panel which I've sourced for £75. I have also found the front lower cross member for £25 here: http://tinyurl.com/qcyc47c

 

Here are the panels that I can buy:

 

UPPER FRONT PANEL

 

FRONT PANEL

HEADLIGHT PANEL (L/R)

RADIATOR SUPPORT / LOWER CROSS MEMBER

Let's say either my friend can chop and weld the panels or someone else. Which panels would I need to buy? Am I right in thinking just the FRONT PANEL will do? The pictures clearly show the rust going beyond the lower cross member and into part of front panel.

To save a few quid could I buy the lower cross member plus sheet steel to patch the rest?

Edited August 11, 2014 by analog_addict

[welshpug 1,656]

crikey! would certainly be going elsewhere if they add that much to the price of the panels!

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

The 2nd one, or two headlight panels and the cross member.

 

Did you search hadrian panels?

 

You could use sheet metal, but you'll get far a nicer and easier job and it will be easier with the panel(s) to chop. The panels also have all the holes for wiring loom clips etc. with the panels you'll be able to sit the bits you cut off your car on top of the panels and mark/cut to suit.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

There's a 205 down near the quayside, or in Walker, go get a look, and if appropriate hire a battery grinder and whip off what you need.

 

I used to live in "the toon" btw lol

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

http://www.carz2.co.uk/peugeot-205-83-96-4961-c.asp

 

£62 for full panel

[analog_addict 1]

http://www.carz2.co.uk/peugeot-205-83-96-4961-c.asp

 

£62 for full panel

 

Thanks! I've been in touch with a guy 5mins away who may do the welding for me. Taking the car round on Wednesday evening for him to look at. For a job like this it seems bodyshops will try and rip your eyes out. Seems like you really need to know someone.

 

Also I received the cheap new valance off ebay. It's very cheap but does actually fit quite well. I think once primed and sprayed it will look good. You also don't need the £30 fixing kit, just some M6 bolts, washers and nuts.

Edited August 11, 2014 by analog_addict

[analog_addict 1]

Just had another local fabricator/welder quote £120 for the work which isn't too bad. I think that was him replacing the parts with sheet metal, not 100% sure.

 

I've managed to remove and replace all the rusted bolts on my slam panel. Had to grind off 2 and drill a new hole in one part. Now I can at least take most of the front end on and off easily.

 

Still struggling with the bumper bolts. I've started giving them a lot of penetrating oil. My sockets aren't long enough to make it over the threads and onto the nut. It's really awkward without ramps or removing the wheels but I'll try grinding off the threads with my dremel and get the socket on the nut.

 

Edited August 13, 2014 by analog_addict

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

If its the fixings on the outer wings your having trouble with, you shouldn't need to remove them.

 

If you loosen the fixing on the inner wing(s), and poke the threaded part through towards engine, bumper "should" slide off.

 

The outer wing fixings hold a rubber buffer, that the slider bracket behind ends of bumper, slides on to.

 

Taking grill off will probably help in taking bumper off.

 

Buy a decent set of ring spanners!