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ATK

Front Bumper Gone A Bit Smooth So Plasticare Not Working So Well?

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ATK

Front bumper has lost some of its textured finish and there are a couple of smooth patches, so plasticare is not working as well and its looking a bit faded.

 

anyone else had this? whats the best way around it? Dont want to have to remove bumper.

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Slo

steel wool the lot, ive just done it then wipe the plasticare on thinly leave to dry then go over it again

 

actually i'll re type that

 

rub it all down with steel wool as ive just done all my side trims and because im going grey to black is the only reason for the plasticare because the trims came up superb after they had dried, nice even uniform grey all over.

 

failing that after the first thin coat you could dab it on to give it texture again

Edited by Slo

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GLPoomobile

YES!

 

I found this problem a few years ago. My trim had been painted at some point in it's history and it was all peeling off. So before using Plasticare, I tried removing as much old paint as I could with Scotch pads. On the side trims and arches this caused me no problems and the Plasticare went on fine. On the front bumper I went a little to aggressive with the Scothpads and removed too much texture, making the corner of the bumper smoother. The Plasticare then wouldn't go on evenly in that section. At the time, I put it down to possibly being a non-OE bumper, as the pattern bumpers are a different material and I know different plastics take the Plasticare better/worse than others.

 

But I then had the same problem on my Volvo. All textured trim was fine. But the top section of the rear bumper under the tailgate is smooth, and Plasticare just wouldn't go on evenly, even with a couple of coats.

 

For some reason, it doesn't like smooth plastic. Mad. I can't understand why the texture should make any difference, but it does. It seems to be absorbed at a much slower rate on smoother surfaces.

 

Unfortunately I don't have any practical advice other than try different application methods and find what works. Given that it doesn't absorb and dry as quickly on smoother surfaces, I think gentle dabbing must be the most sensible approach, trying not to spread it from side to side. Then apply extra coats as you need, to cover up any patchiness.

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ATK

steel wool the lot, ive just done it then wipe the plasticare on thinly leave to dry then go over it again

 

actually i'll re type that

 

rub it all down with steel wool as ive just done all my side trims and because im going grey to black is the only reason for the plasticare because the trims came up superb after they had dried, nice even uniform grey all over.

 

failing that after the first thin coat you could dab it on to give it texture again

 

 

Hmm, so steel wool'ing it should work? Or wouldn't steel wool just make the bumpers even more smooth?

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ATK

YES!

 

I found this problem a few years ago. My trim had been painted at some point in it's history and it was all peeling off. So before using Plasticare, I tried removing as much old paint as I could with Scotch pads. On the side trims and arches this caused me no problems and the Plasticare went on fine. On the front bumper I went a little to aggressive with the Scothpads and removed too much texture, making the corner of the bumper smoother. The Plasticare then wouldn't go on evenly in that section. At the time, I put it down to possibly being a non-OE bumper, as the pattern bumpers are a different material and I know different plastics take the Plasticare better/worse than others.

 

But I then had the same problem on my Volvo. All textured trim was fine. But the top section of the rear bumper under the tailgate is smooth, and Plasticare just wouldn't go on evenly, even with a couple of coats.

 

For some reason, it doesn't like smooth plastic. Mad. I can't understand why the texture should make any difference, but it does. It seems to be absorbed at a much slower rate on smoother surfaces.

 

Unfortunately I don't have any practical advice other than try different application methods and find what works. Given that it doesn't absorb and dry as quickly on smoother surfaces, I think gentle dabbing must be the most sensible approach, trying not to spread it from side to side. Then apply extra coats as you need, to cover up any patchiness.

 

 

I'm not convinced it actually absorbs into the plastic to be honest - I think it just 'clings' to the texture of the bumper, hence why when bumpers go smooth it doesn't bond. Tried dabbing on with a sponge but it looks crap!

Edited by ATK

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Slo

 

 

Hmm, so steel wool'ing it should work? Or wouldn't steel wool just make the bumpers even more smooth?

 

Yes. And no the plasticare doesnt absord into the plastic, its plastic period. It says on the instructions it will just act like paint on smooth surfaces, well it will act like paint on any surface although I think its actually ink. If dabbing it on isnt working your either pressing too hard or applying too much at once but dabbing wont work on bare plastic you need to wipe on a base coat first for it to stick too.

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GeorgeXS

Yep, i've had this before as well, some plastics soak it up and others it will just sit on the surface for ages. Best thing I found for a plastic that not taking it very well is dabbing with a sponge, any form of smearing/wiping and it'll end up streaky.

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ATK

Slo, what grade of steel wool will I need to use?

 

Just give them a rub down and one coat of plasticare should stick again, right?

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Slo

Well i actually used brillo pads but its the same thing. My arch and door trims came up like new was a shame to plasticare em tbh but i prefer em black.

 

They went smooth but not shiny then after drying donned rubber gloves and cut some sponge at 1cm thick. Poured some plasticare in a cup dipped in the sponge wrung it out and wiped completely over the trim surface, left for 20 minutes then went over it again.

 

Results are really good, good enough for my eyes anyway and look spot on next to my fresh black paint job

Edited by Slo

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