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Martycush

Gears & Steering.. Need Help Pls

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Martycush

I'm having trouble getting it into 1st and reverse, first is difficult but I always eventually get there. Reverse will crunch unless I switch off the engine then select reverse, clutch in then startup it's fine. Could it be a linkage problem?

I've been told the gearbox is fine

 

The steering knocks or makes noises when turning, (no power steering) I know it's not the steering Colum as it only got a new one before I bought it. Seems like something needs greased in both cases!!

 

Apart from that ..still loving the pug!!

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farmer

Cable been adjusted ?

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jackherer

Is the clutch bite point abnormally high or low?

 

Check that the gearbox is still tightly bolted to the engine, this is something you need to look at on 205s on a semi regular basis anyway.

 

If it's a BE1 gearbox it's worth checking the clutch arm as they can fatigue and bend.

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jackherer

With regards to the steering, the column is in two parts and each one has a U/J so unless you've replaced both you could still have some play there.

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Martycush

I got the gearbox looked at as the flywheel was touching the clutch..bolts fell of holdings the gearbox down. That's how I know the gearbox is ok. Maybe the clutch just needs adjusted, I would nt knw where to start so it's bk to the garage.

 

Clutch bite is normal.always been the same.

 

Not sure what a be1 is.. It's a phase 1.5

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pug_ham

Not sure what a be1 is.. It's a phase 1.5

Be1 is reverse next to first gear with a lock out collar, Be3 is reverse behind fifth.

 

g

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Martycush

Ohh mine is below 5th ..thanks

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pug_ham

OK, what's your gearbox oil level like?

 

Even a small amount less than the correct amount can make gear selection harder.

 

g

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Martycush

Hi G,

I haven't even checked it, I thought they used the main oil system. ( I know very little about engines)

Can you give me a pointer in where I need to top it up? It would be embarrassing if I went to a garage to top up oil - I think im capable..

 

Cheers

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welshpug

its covered in the gearbox swap article on the main site, you need 2 litres of normal 75w80, not EP oil, dealers are reasonably priced for good quality oils.

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Martycush

Much appreciated! - I will check this later this evening

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chipstick

Rather than just top up, I'd suggest you take the oppurtunity to drain the lot and replace if you've no record of when it was last done.

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Anthony

Sounds like a dragging clutch to me rather than an oil issue, but no harm in ruling that out.

 

Check that the clutch pedal is sat a touch higher than the brake and that the bite point is well above the floor.

 

Also, are you 100% sure that the lower rear gearbox-engine bolt is present and correct - the one which goes in from the engine side into the gearbox? That one tends to get missed and is the one that usually falls out (especially if the dowells are missing following a box swap) and with it missing, the gearbox gets pushed off the engine when you depress the clutch and really messes with the clutch function.

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Martycush

Hi guys, ok as I've said I know very little so I appreciated the pointers in what to check.

 

I took the motor for a nice drive earlier, what I've manage to work out is if I out my clutch foot almost through the floor it goes into gear with ease.. (Apart from reverse, still have to switch off/on) main thing is the car is driveable!

I've no idea what this means, or what/how to fix it. So I guess it's another trip to the garage, suppose I could get him to check out the steering for me too..

 

Thanks for your help guys!.. Still prefer this over my daily drive so it would be good to get these two silly issues sorted

Marty

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Anthony

Probably just means that the clutch cable needs adjusting to tighten it a little to raise the bite point and stop it dragging (ie not fully dis-engaging) - however, check (or get the garage to check) that the gearbox bolts and in particular the lower rear one I mentioned are all present and tight.

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