Clonking Noise From Right Front Suspension

[Bovien 6]

I'm having a worrying clonking noise from around the right front wheel. It sounds like a clearance in a bush or the likes. However, everything in the front suspension is new. Dampers, top mounts, drop links, suspension arms and springs.

When I was down there today, I saw the attached, which is the

Right engine mount. Is that supposed to be completely solid? If so, would you think this could be the reason to the clonking, which might be the engine that moves over bumps?

[welshpug 1,646]

that's just a standard lower engine mounting, albeit slightly worse for wear, however they don't tend to cause any noise issues other than when the exhaust knocks on the body from excessive movement.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Probably your drop link is no good, did you get them from ebay by any chance? About 4 years ago I fitted some cheapies from ebay right before I went to the mot and on the way they were both rattling as if they were ten years old. Had to persuade the mot guy to advise them rather than fail them as they were brand new. Then bit the bullet and bought some decent ones on the way home and replaced them again.

[PAGOS 15 4 Cars]

I'm having the same problem with the drop links .I fitted 2 in October and they are ready for replacement already .These were not e-bay items , but off my local parts man ,who is normally reliable . However I will be having a few words with him in the morning .Not only is it the issue of cost , it's the hassle . Every service to include a pair of drop-links ?

[Bovien 6]

Yep, heard that about non OEM drop links. So I ripped both off and replaced with Peugeot stuff. That helped, but shortly after the sound was back and the drop link are sitting nice and steady. So they are not the issue.

[jackherer 543]

Loose subframe bolts can sound a bit like worn drop links, it's worth spanner checking all six.

[PAGOS 15 4 Cars]

Thanx for that tip about the subframe bolts.

[hoodygoodwood 70 3 Cars]

Sounds like somethings loose , I would have said wishbone ball joint but you have replaced them . the 2 hockey stick bolts holding the long driveshaft bearing could need tightening . I would also retorque the wishbone to subframe bolts , a fraction too loose and they will move and knock .

[DamirGTI 340]

Ovaled hub perhaps ?

 

Does the sound appears while hitting a pot hole/driving over a bumpy road , or while applying the throttle on/off and also gear upshifting/downshifting ?

 

Have you done an wheel alignment ? .. might sound strange (well it is a bit !) , was working on an 306 on which i also renewed all the front end suspension components and test driving afterwards over a bumpy road sounded awful ! double checked all the nuts/bolts and off to the wheel alignment shop - after the alignment was reset the suspension quieten down like a magic ..

 

No matter the link of this particular issue , but after such amount of work on the suspension the wheel alignment is really a must afterwards on the end of the suspension overhaul .

 

D

[Bovien 6]

Loose subframe bolts can sound a bit like worn drop links, it's worth spanner checking all six.

 

Thanks for the idea. I will defo try that. Hope they are reachable with the car on stands...

 

Sounds like somethings loose , I would have said wishbone ball joint but you have replaced them . the 2 hockey stick bolts holding the long driveshaft bearing could need tightening . I would also retorque the wishbone to subframe bolts , a fraction too loose and they will move and knock .

 

Really good idea, if they can give a sound like that. I've changed the long drive shaft last year. I'll try those out.

 

Ovaled hub perhaps ?

 

Does the sound appears while hitting a pot hole/driving over a bumpy road , or while applying the throttle on/off and also gear upshifting/downshifting ?

 

Have you done an wheel alignment ? .. might sound strange (well it is a bit !) , was working on an 306 on which i also renewed all the front end suspension components and test driving afterwards over a bumpy road sounded awful ! double checked all the nuts/bolts and off to the wheel alignment shop - after the alignment was reset the suspension quieten down like a magic ..

 

No matter the link of this particular issue , but after such amount of work on the suspension the wheel alignment is really a must afterwards on the end of the suspension overhaul .

 

D

 

I hope not, as that sounds a bit mor bothersome than just tightening/replacing a bush. However, I do have the sound over rough road. Most noticable on cobble/repeaded small bumps. But I do not have any sound going on/off throttle or shifting. So I hope that clears me of that. How would you go about checking for oval hubs?

 

Alignment done. Actually a few times and just the other day as well after replacing the steering rack with a 309 togeather with replacing the drop links.

[DamirGTI 340]

 

I do not have any sound going on/off throttle or shifting. So I hope that clears me of that. How would you go about checking for oval hubs?

 

 

That clears the engine mounts and bushes in general at least , so it's deffo suspension issue then ..

 

Oval hubs :

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=115063

 

... but need to note , on some hubs , even if the gap is still present and looks good it could still be oval inside .. check as you usually would for worn balljoint , but preferably without the wheels completely off the ground rather than that jack the front end up and fit something under each wheel and lower it down so that the wheels/suspension is compressed with at least 50% of the cars weight and that it's still high enough for you to slide underneath with a pry bar (presumably if you're doing it on the ground , if you don't have a inspection pit or if not doing this on a two post lift) .. then wedge the pry bar between the wishbone and hub and try for up-down and left-right free play .

 

D

 

Also , an visible bent on the balljoint pinch bolt will be a sign of a oval hub .. the greater the bent on the bolt the less chance it'll be for the hub joint to clamp the balljoint firmly without looseness/free play even when using new pinch bolt and nut (which is highly recommended when ever replacing a wishbone or unbolting a balljoint from the hub - use new pinch bolt and nut when refitting back) .

Edited June 30, 2014 by DamirGTI