Bias Valve Port Fitting Query

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

I've an AP bias valve which I will be fitting over the next few days and I've been looking at fittings in preparation.

 

It came with the following fittings (AN3 to M10 I believe):

 

 

Which would be used with female fittings like so:

 

 

I'm wondering if I can do without these Intermediate AN3 fittings and fit straight into the bias valve using a male end fitting like so:

 

 

Would that fitting with the flare on the copper pipe be deep enough to seal though?

 

Many of the valves I see for sale include male to female fittings so I'd assume that was for a reason, but then I have seen the odd image of people just having a male fitting going straight into a valve port.

[oonip 4]

Prop valve threads are m10x1.0. I'd expect the fitting would be m10x1.0 and 3/8-24 unf.

 

You can attach straight onto it with a male tube nut it's designed to attach either like that or by copper gasket.

Edited May 30, 2014 by oonip

[welshpug 1,646]

They dont use copper washers, its a normal taper seat but the threads are usually different hence the need for adapters.

[welshpug 1,646]

M10 union may screw in but wont seal properly.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Thanks guys. Interesting.

 

As the thread of a male fitting appears to work I believe I'll be ok to use it directly attached like that. It's the depth to the taper seat which was my main concern. I shall soon see if it leaks I suppose

[welshpug 1,646]

3/8 unions are longer.

[oonip 4]

The port is designed to be used with either the conical face or a copper gasket. Honest.

 

It's the same port found on many a caliper inlet.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Chipstick, what makes you think you need a bias valve? how does it behave? and what is your current brake set up? (if you don't mind me asking)

 

The reason i ask is a guy i know who races cars saw my set up and thought i'd likely need a bias valve.

 

I have a GTI6 MC, 283mm Brembo Max discs and Brembo pads at front , standard 1.9 discs/pads at back, and my back end is single piped/T-pieced.

 

(I've yet to have a shot of my car to see how it behaves.)

[Tom Fenton 1,536]

You should not mix -3 ("dash" 3) and copper as the angle on the sealing face is different. AN of JIC are 37deg versus 45deg on SAE or DIN (copper flare)

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

M10 union may screw in but wont seal properly.

 

Ah sorry I missed that when I was writing my reply.

 

I'm confused now as which fittings I should be purchasing

 

Chipstick, what makes you think you need a bias valve? how does it behave? and what is your current brake set up? (if you don't mind me asking)

 

The reason i ask is a guy i know who races cars saw my set up and thought i'd likely need a bias valve.

 

I have a GTI6 MC, 283mm Brembo Max discs and Brembo pads at front , standard 1.9 discs/pads at back, and my back end is single piped/T-pieced.

 

(I've yet to have a shot of my car to see how it behaves.)

 

I've GTi6 fronts with DS2500 pads and GTi6 rear calipers with the slightly larger pistons.

 

When last on the road the rears would lock - but I imagine that could be down to knackered rear compensators. I decided whilst fitting new lines I would add a bias valve to give me the flexibility should I find the rears do more than I want in the wet etc.

[oonip 4]

You need an m10x1.0 tube nut long enough to reach the bottom of the port so the flared part of the copper pipe seats on the conical face of the port.

[welshpug 1,646]

Not if its a 3/8" thread..

[Tom Fenton 1,536]

Be very careful about correctly identifyng the thread. 3/8UNF and 10x1 are very very close and either will start but be a baggy fit.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

I managed to find a technical drawing for it and it is in fact M10x1 - http://www.apracing.com/Drawings/cp3550-13cd.pdf

 

So I need to have a hunt later for a deeper than usual M10x1 fitting

[oonip 4]

Let me know if you get stuck I've got some hanging around.

[oonip 4]

Not if its a 3/8" thread..

Given I sit next to the bloke that designed it I was pretty confident. ;-)