Driver Side Electric Window Not Working?

[ATK 143 1 Cars]

Passenger side window ok, if a little slow coming back up.

 

Drivers side not working at all! Tried swapping my existing switches around to see if I coumd make the driver side work and make the passenger side stop working but no luck there.

 

or would this not actually work as all switches need to be fully operational? Read somewhere that the switches are all linked.

 

any tips for testing motor etc before i start spending more money?

[MikeC 10]

Is it the passenger window switch on the driver side you have trouble with?

[ATK 143 1 Cars]

No, passenger switch on both sides ok. drivers side not working! Swapped pass switch to drivers and still no joy?

[ATK 143 1 Cars]

Any idea on best way to test the motor?

[Anthony 1,003]

It's only the pair of passenger side switches that both need to be operational for the passenger side motor to work.

 

The drivers side switch is standalone and doesn't need either of the passenger ones to work.

 

To test the motor, simply feed it a +12v and earth to the two pins. To save you stripping the door down, you can do this to pins 1 and 5 on the window switch, swapping the polarity to make the window go up and down.

 

If it works then it's all good, and if not, you'll need to test on the motor itself to rule out a damaged loom.

 

For the sake of completeness, here's the pinout of the drivers side window switch plug:

 

1. Purple #96 - Motor Wire 1

2. Yellow/Green #M2 - Earth

3. White #92 - Switched +12v

4. Yellow/Green #M1 - Earth

5. Brown #97 - Motor Wire 2

 

If the passenger side is working then chances are that the switched +12v and earth will be present, but double check it anyway if you've a multimeter.

[ATK 143 1 Cars]

Thanks Anthony, that's very helpful once again!

 

Are there any guides for swapping out the motor, if I need to?

[Anthony 1,003]

Not sure if there's a guide, but it's straight forward and obvious enough once you've got the door card off.

 

Basically, motor and mechanism is held on by three nuts, and there's a further two nuts for the lower runner. Secure the glass to stop it dropping down, undo all those, remove the lower runner completely and then the motor - you might need to tap the motor studs through the door with a hammer. There's a runner on the bottom of the glass that you'll need to slide the mechanism arm along to release, and then you can wiggle the motor out.

 

Reassembly is the reverse of removal - if you put the wiring plug onto the motor and the switch back on, it's sometimes easier if you lower the motor a touch to get it back in and aligned, but you'll work it out.

 

Whilst you're there, check the condition of the runner at the bottom of the glass - they're sometimes distinctly rotten!

 

 

That was the one on my old 205 that had been working fine (I was swapping from manual to electric windows when I discovered a pile of rusty metal in the bottom of the door and found that)

Edited May 1, 2014 by Anthony

[MikeC 10]

1. Purple #96 - Motor Wire 1
2. Yellow/Green #M2 - Earth
3. White #92 - Switched +12v
4. Yellow/Green #M1 - Earth
5. Brown #97 - Motor Wire 2

This is for Phase two as far as i remember

 

Sorry i forgot, this is the drivers door

Was thinking of the passenger side.

Edited May 1, 2014 by MikeC

[ATK 143 1 Cars]

Thanks all, was the motor/regulator, swapped in a replacement and all is well

[farmer 328 1 Cars]

I have a genuine new motor if you need one

[ATK 143 1 Cars]

All ok now bud but if one goes again I'll let you know

[farmer 328 1 Cars]

No problem, I don't need it now as have manual.