Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Donk

Idle, Temp Gauge, Fuel Consumption And So On

Recommended Posts

Donk

Hi everyone, my 89 F reg 1.9 temperature gauge never goes more than an 8th of the way up.

Idle sits at 1500 after a long run.

Only seem to get about 150-180 miles to a tank (no difference weather driving flat out or gently)

Still plenty power throughout the rev range.

It smokes like hell slow driving through town (grey smoke)

Uses no water whatsoever and minimal oil consumption.

 

Its had full service 2 months ago, new bosch spark plugs, mann oil and air filters, quantum 5w40 synthetic oil and new cap, leads and rotor arm.

 

What do I need to look at next?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johnhenry

sounds like a good setup/tune up is in order.

http://www.205gtidrivers.com/articles.html/_/articles-guides/engine-related/205-gti-injection-basics-r34

Well worth a read, is pretty much a bible on setup/fault finding

 

There is a haynes workshop in someones profile signature here that has a whole section on how to do a proper setup of the whole system, theres also this;

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=148913&hl=%2Bsetup+%2Bidle+%2Bafm&do=findComment&comment=1348543

Worth a read.

 

> A raised idle with rich running could point at a stuck open SAD valve

Although it could also be a number of things. If you squeeze the hose coming of the SAD into the elbow hose onto the throttle body when the engine is hot (running at 1500rpm) - if the revs drop, the SAD's stuck open.

 

> It could be an air leak - to test for this - grab a can of easy start, run the engine up to temp, then just spray easy start around at different parts of the engine, if the revs change, its drawing in the fluid/spray, you will have a leak there and that needs rectifying.

 

> Its running rich thats for sure, mine currently is running rich, and has returned a similar milage to a tank. I have just received the Air flow meter *(AFM) back from ATP electronics which has now been rebuilt and restored back to factory, this apparently is the cause of the rich running. you can test yours by following the 'injection basics' article.

 

Test your parts, make sure you have parts hat are working. Once you've got that sorted follow the setup guides and it should all work its way out.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Donk

Super, thank you very much. I shall give this a bash and update the results

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jackherer

Hi everyone, my 89 F reg 1.9 temperature gauge never goes more than an 8th of the way up.

 

 

If you mean the water temp gauge your thermostat might be stuck open so it never warms up properly, this would give increased fuel consumption too.

 

If you mean the oil temp then that's normal.

 

Grey smoke is probably due to over fuelling, if it's not caused by a stuck thermostat check the ECU temp sensor.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Donk

Tonight seems to have been a success.

Found a split vacuum hose on the distributor,

Sad appears to be working correctly,

AFM clean and in good order,

Got it up to temperature and did the factory settings on the air flow and throttle body.

The drive home was far better. Far smoother and more torque. Will see how it starts in the morning from cold.

Edited by Donk
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johnhenry

going in the right direction! pleased its hopefully worked out and might not have been anything too serious

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gtiburge

John do u mind me asking how much was your afm to be reconditioned ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johnhenry

Evening mate

 

I paid £150 i think, although they said their price was going up to £175 or something, can't remember if they charged postage or if it was rolled into the price.

GENUINELY worth it! car feels great now! :D

Give ATP electronics a call, see what they can do, They will test your AFM and find out whats wrong with it and call you and let you know before they recondition it.

 

Hope that helps!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gtiburge

Cheers :) I will do !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
td_w

Hey there

 

A great day of doing little things, like fitting a mono wiper, amazing! But.... my 1.9 gti normal idles at 1500 rpm, which isn't great l'm sure. I have read the threads above, only problem is not sure i can squeeze any pipes to check if the afm is working as I have an induction kit, or am I squeezing the wrong pipes? Anyone got a photo of which pipe I need to squeeze to check the afm?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scbond

Hey there

 

A great day of doing little things, like fitting a mono wiper, amazing! But.... my 1.9 gti normal idles at 1500 rpm, which isn't great l'm sure. I have read the threads above, only problem is not sure i can squeeze any pipes to check if the afm is working as I have an induction kit, or am I squeezing the wrong pipes? Anyone got a photo of which pipe I need to squeeze to check the afm?

 

Not sure squeezing the AFM pipes will help you...whether it works properly or not it'll lower the revs and possibly stall if you squeeze enough.

 

Best thing to do is do a clean of the AFM, hoses and throttle body and then do a set-up, including checking the SAD. If it still misbehaves then test the voltage of the AFM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johnhenry

is it a K&N induction kit?

with the shorter adapter as opposed to the elbow pipe which is standard - follow the 2 pipes that come off it, trace them back to their sources - the SAD is located between the Dizzy and the gearbox, its a pain to see so have a good look with a light.

 

its as simple as finding the SAD pipe that goes to the induction kit adapter pipe, then just kink'ing the SAD hose, if the rpms drop its stuck open.

 

its probably worth doing what is suggested above, just start from scratch and set everything up, test each component, make sure what you've got is good elsewhere in the system, otherwise your just masking problems elsewhere

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
td_w

Thanks guys

 

Yes it's k and n... but will take your advice and start from scratch. I already cleaned the throttle body and all the induction kit, but will now look at it all.

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johnhenry

do you find the brake pedal bait weird with the K&N? sounds odd, but i switched back to the stock induction and the pedal felt a lot firmer and nicer than with the K&N

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scbond

Thanks guys

 

Yes it's k and n... but will take your advice and start from scratch. I already cleaned the throttle body and all the induction kit, but will now look at it all.

 

Cheers

 

They don't stay clean for long haha...the oil vapour circulates and makes it's way back up the induction.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
td_w

do you find the brake pedal bait weird with the K&N? sounds odd, but i switched back to the stock induction and the pedal felt a lot firmer and nicer than with the K&N

 

Hmm interesting.... mine is a bit weird, but as I don't have a standard one to swap to I don't know any different!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
johnhenry

 

Hmm interesting.... mine is a bit weird, but as I don't have a standard one to swap to I don't know any different!

 

If you can find the original setup for sensible money, i would recommend fitting it just to see, it was incredible the difference when i swapped back

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×