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Mikey's r5

Engine Refresh

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Mikey's r5

Hi, doing a head gasket change over the next few weeks, gonna do cambelt and water pump and clutch at same time, is there anything I should know that a Haynes manual won't tell me. I have read a few threads about it but didn't get much info about from them. Any info is much appreciated. Thanks

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Telf

hi there,

 

I just completed a complete block swap and head etc. The Haynes manual is pretty accurate. the only thing that didn't seem too clear was the tensioner on the cambelt. once fitted to the timing lines it seemed slack at the front. I manually cranked it and found that with the tensioner spring bolts loose and the rear screw undone the tensioner took up the slack after a couple of turns.

 

It still felt alittle slack so manually pushed it in and tightened it all back up. Good tension on the belt.

 

Also be aware 2 head bolts managed to shear when being undone on the original block and a potential donar- I would suggest you get plenty of break free oil into the head bolts or use some heat on them- if they feel stiff don't keep applying pressure they will snap!

 

 

have fun

 

P

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jdt

1) don't rotate the engine (and move liners) when the head is off or you will do the job twice, if the liners do move then take the sump off and remove liner / piston and replace the O-rings.

 

2) remember the spacer on the headbolt above the waterpump or you will scrap the block

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Daviewonder

remember the spacer on the headbolt above the waterpump or you will scrap the block

 

This. I'm pretty sure we all know someone who has done it in the past.

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Miles

Loads

 

You can snap the head bolts when undoing them, Corrosion on the head, block & Liners, Bad threads for the head bolts in the block which need timeserts/Repairing, Exhaust studs broken, Exhaust manifold face pitted if OE manifold, Bar that dead easy

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Mikey's r5

Thanks for the help, head is now off without any snapped head bolts but there were a few head bolts with a load of dirt in them is this normal. I have also found a few plugs that go to nothing any anyone help with these. Thanks

 

This one is connected to rad fan switch wiring

Edited by Mikey's r5

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Mikey's r5

Thanks for the help, head is now off without any snapped head bolts but there were a few head bolts with a load of dirt in them is this normal. I have also found a few plugs that go to nothing any anyone help with these. Thanks

This one is connected to rad fan switch wiring

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Mikey's r5
welshpug

cooling fan system test point.

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Mikey's r5
welshpug

EEK!

 

first is the permanent live from the battery, that needs a fresh ring terminal on it ASAP.

 

second one I don't recognise.

 

third looks to be the engine speed sensor which is purely for diagnostic purposes using very old diagnostic equipment.

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jackherer

EEK!

 

first is the permanent live from the battery, that needs a fresh ring terminal on it ASAP.

 

ASAP isn't soon enough, I wouldn't leave that unattended with a battery connected, if you do you may well return to your car on fire.

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Mikey's r5

Thanks guys, is there supposed to be anything in the bolt next to the batt live, yep go to sort all wiring out while head is at machine shop. Thanks for all the help.

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jackherer

The main wire should have a ring connector on it that is held onto that bolt/stud with a nut.

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Mikey's r5

Hi guys , head has been skimmed and cleaned and now on the car but I'm not too sure about the head bolts I have been sent they have a female torks instead of male is this ok I haven't done them up to book settings yet just done 100 degrees and they seem really tight already. Can anyone help

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mrfirepro

The ones I used on my rebuild were female Torx. Mine were fine past 100 degrees, did you lube them up first?

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Mikey's r5

No I didn't lube them up but have ordered another set as have the shorter bolts which are too short. Will make sure I lube the new ones. Thanks for reply.

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Tom Fenton

Engine oil both on threads and underside of the bolt head.

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hexhamstu

Don't forget the spacer?

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