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GLPoomobile

Best Way To Fill Holes Without Welding?

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GLPoomobile

Thinking waaaay ahead to a future job on the 205. I've two holes in the body that I'll want to fill. One if from an aftermarket aerial that was fitted at the back of the roof, the other is from an additional key barrel fitted to the rear OS quarter next to the door (for a circa 1980s alarm).

 

So assuming that I'm to rule our welding a repair in place (for many reasons, so please don't bother suggesting welding as it's not happening), can anyone give me suggestions on how best to cover the holes before painting?

 

My first thought was simply to add a thin plate behind each hole, using Tigerseal to fix in place, then skim over with filler and flat back. But then I thought about trying to reduce the amount of filler needed by trying to shape the plate to fill the hole reasonably flush (like embossing it) before adding a lesser skim of filler. But is that even worth the extra hassle (not sure yet how I would emboss the plate)? Or should I just KISS, and go with a flat plate and filler over the top?

 

It's not intended to be a concourse repair (clearly), but needs to be passable with minimal risk of the filler cracking.

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Tom Fenton

Tigersealing a plate on is not ideal, as the sealer can flex, but the filler in the hole will not, hence it will soon crack.

 

If you must do it without welding then I'd use some jam. Spread some on a bit of plastic bag and you can create a patch that will then adhere to the inside of the panel.

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195941_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

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aldworth33

Instant metal a plate behind would be better than tiger seal but welding would still be better.

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dobboy

You could also use a bit of thin flexi mesh (halfords also do it), used for backing the fibreglass and probably catty.

 

If you can get to the back of the hole you can bond the mesh onto the back of the hole and let it dry/stick. Then use a bit of filler on the outside.... the mesh gives you something to build on. Make sure you dont push the mesh through the hole too much so that you can add the filler on the outside and still have enough play to sand down to the correct level.

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Alan77

^ Fiberglass mat bonded behind (if you can) and filler over the outside.

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nick205

Not suggesting you weld it, but it would be a very simple job for a competent body shop welder to do and give the best / longest lasting repair.

 

Anything you bond in is going move sooner or later and crack the filler / paint.

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stu8v

If you don't weld it up it WILL crack and sink over time.

 

If its just a flash over and your not fussed just glue a bit of tin on the back and fill it.

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GilesW

Fast forward 10 years and click the "view new content" button ......

 

"Take a look at this shonky repair. No wonder my panels are all cracked and rusty"

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GLPoomobile

If the best I can hope for is a bodge, then I won't bother. It's not worth the time and money for materials. I've worked with fibreglass filler and metal gauze before, and whilst I admit my methods may not have been the best at the time, I've never been a fan since.

 

I'll leave as is until a (much) later date when I can get the car to a bodyshop and get the holes properly repaired.

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DamirGTI

Put a cork in and trim it down ! slap some paint on top and job done :lol:

 

Plating/welding would be best as an long term quality solution .. whilst the GRP is really handy for fixing holes , it has a nasty habit of moisture accumulation in between the metal and bonded layer thus the metal will start rusting sooner or later ..

 

D

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2-Pugs

Put a nut and bolt in or something to plug the hole up until such time it can be done properly !?

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chipstick

Put a nut and bolt in or something to plug the hole up until such time it can be done properly !?

 

Or a grommet.

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tartanbloke

Interestingly enough, I have the same hole on the off side rear quarter panel for an old 1980's alarm, which a grommet has been used and done the job well until I get it welded.

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GLPoomobile

Neither hole actually needs temporarily "corking". The alarm lock is still present, and although I've removed the rear aerial I can easily refit it if I felt the need.

 

So as I said before, I won't bother bodging it. It was an idea, I threw it out to the greater good, it was knocked down, I shall move on :)

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DanteICE

*Walks in*

 

"I generally fill holes with semen." :ph34r:

 

*Walks out*

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mowflow

Estate agent technique. turn them into features rather than problems.

 

glue a bit of perspex over the roof hole and it's a tiny sunroof.

 

The other hole is more difficult. Perhaps a dogging glory hole?

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Slo

Plughole to let the water out lol

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GLPoomobile

Estate agent technique. turn them into features rather than problems.

 

glue a bit of perspex over the roof hole and it's a tiny sunroof.

 

The other hole is more difficult. Perhaps a dogging glory hole?

 

2 top quality suggestions. I shall give them serious consideration :D Though the keyhole in the rear quarter may be a bit small for a glory hole. More a "fingering hole" :ph34r:​

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GLPoomobile

Expanding foam, lovely. I suppose if I fill up the cavity between the rear quarter and the interior trim it will at least reduce resonance and hopefully improve sound proofing :ph34r:

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jackherer

It will also absorb water then hold it against the panel...

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GLPoomobile

Lucky I was joking then :P

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mowflow

Just a bit of O/T - check out here how the holes are closed w/o welding (I know it's in Slovenian but pics say enough... oh, and bare in mind it's one winter car project)

 

http://www.team-vw.si/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=11145&start=0

 

Can only follow the pictures and it looks like they started off with well intentions, welding up the repairs then the "German quality beer" turned up and it all went a bit mental.

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Rjuhar

 

Can only follow the pictures and it looks like they started off with well intentions, welding up the repairs then the "German quality beer" turned up and it all went a bit mental.

 

Don't think it was ever intended as a serious project, but the end result looked pretty nice

 

18185064.jpg

 

I think after the winter it was sold for 500 EUR.

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