Welding.

[daza2020 2]

I've had the nice event today of finding one of those bodges, metal plate glued on to hide the rust well now I have some nice big holes to patch up as I've cut the rust out in a somewhat blind rage. I did have plans of getting someone in to do the welding for me but so far everyones let me down or can't do it grrrr.

 

 

So with a few beers tonight I'm thinking of buying a mig welder (clarke 145) and just doing it myself I mean how hard can it be, it is just the driver rear sill and the passenger rear bumper bracket and a few holes in the boot floor so far that needs doing and I'm pretty sure that I can do it from what I've read/watched as I am quite handy.

 

Was just wondering if anyone else has any pointers.

 

Thanks.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Don't go too fast because the panels you weld will distort especially above the sill, or too powerful as you'll blow big holes. Welding likes clean edges as dirt will create birds*it.

 

Just take your time and alternate a few inches at a time to keep the overall heat down in the same area. You can clean off the eyesore when you are done with a nice raspy flapdisk on angle grinder when you are done.

[daza2020 2]

Yeh I'm aware that I'll need to take it slow, the bits I've got to do are pretty small bar the will which may need some creative tinkering as the rear part needed chopping

[mowflow 67]

I decided to learn to weld for my little 205 project. I'll be the first to say it's not easy, but it's not impossible.

 

Threads on here along with info on the Mig welding forum and the "making panels" thread on retro rides were massively valuable and encouraging.

 

The first welds that i did on my car were pretty awful. However, they are strong, not in highly visible areas and don't actually look too bad now they are all painted and sealed. In fact, i would say that most wouldn't even notice them unless they were pointed out. No real pictures of the initial welds but you can see my inner wing repair in my restoration thread here http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=151472&page=2

 

Most valuable things I learned were: Clean metal is important if you want a clean weld. For but welds, lining the edges of the sheets up as precisely as possible makes a massive difference. Wire speed is WAY more important than i thought. Flap wheels can make anything look good.

[daza2020 2]

I've been doing some reading and seem to have the basics somewhat understood, I'm now tasked with finding a unit that will work. There was an arc (stick) welder near by for £20 unitll I did some more reading and found out 100amps would blow a hole through the car, so I'm looking at the clarke 145 as its 35amps and should do for my small amount of work.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Stay away from arc welders unless your doing girders they are a nightmare to learn with, very frustrating. Mig is the easiest choice, and cheapest.

 

Variable power is a must too as you will need to fine tune the power as well as the wire speed as you go and will actually need that 100amp bracket from time to time.

 

In continuous use though particularly summer it will cut out after 20 minutes or so to protect itself, so don't be alarmed if you get one and it stops working right when your bang at it.

 

Best mod you can do to any mig welder is replace the torch liner, which is usually plastic on the cheap lower spec machines, with a steel one. This gives a massive improvement to the wire flow and helps to prevent stabbing the work (plastic liners snag the wire particularly if its kinked or not straight.

 

That clarke will be spot on for your needs.