Pipework Question

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I noticed tonight that the ID of the 16v pipework to the heater matrix, is a fair bit bigger than the 8v pipework, and heater matrix pipe OD.

 

I'm thinking I need to build up the matrix pipe a bit, perhaps with self amalgamating tape, or rubber pipe cuttings.

 

Anyone else came across this? If so what did you do?

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

If we answer are you going to get s*itty and then tell us the answer we should have given?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

If we answer are you going to get s*itty and then tell us the answer we should have given?

Davie, who's "we"?

 

I've identified a problem, and two solutions.

 

If you tell me you wrapped yours in liquorice and its working great, I'll tell you your solution is s*it, but I will be civil about it as I always am.

[calvinhorse 870]

I have 3 possible answers, all wrong, would you like to hear them?

[calvinhorse 870]

What exactly is the 16v pipe work you are trying to bodge on?

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

http://www.macmillandictionary.com/dictionary/british/we

 

http://www.bakerbm.com/205.php?data=schkitgti6205

 

http://www.bakerbm.com/205.php?data=schkit16v205

Edited March 13, 2014 by allanallen

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Not sure how well it will work but I'm using a mix of the 16v and 8v pipe work. I'm using the 2 8v heater matrix pipes 1 I believe goes directly to 16v thermostat housing the other is going to a join that'll go to bottom of expansion tank and then other thermostat housing pipe. Also as I'm tight I'm using the 16v thermostat housing and hose which I'm rotating so the hose that would go to the oil cooler/heat exchanger goes to the top right of expansion tank. I've cut the hose down and that'll join up to the top rad hose. Not sure how well this will work but it all offers up pretty well but I'm sure someone else will have tried it or point out where it could cause an issue?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Allen, i don't want to use a silicon hose kit, i don't like the look of them.

 

I have a complete set of 16V hoses, plus spares, and also a very good set of 8V hoses.

 

 

and i've spent enough!

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I have 3 possible answers, all wrong, would you like to hear them?

 

 

What exactly is the 16v pipe work you are trying to bodge on?

 

There is a good chance all your answers will be wrong if you don't read the question.

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Not sure how well it will work but I'm using a mix of the 16v and 8v pipe work. I'm using the 2 8v heater matrix pipes 1 I believe goes directly to 16v thermostat housing the other is going to a join that'll go to bottom of expansion tank and then other thermostat housing pipe. Also as I'm tight I'm using the 16v thermostat housing and hose which I'm rotating so the hose that would go to the oil cooler/heat exchanger goes to the top right of expansion tank. I've cut the hose down and that'll join up to the top rad hose. Not sure how well this will work but it all offers up pretty well but I'm sure someone else will have tried it or point out where it could cause an issue?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Not sure how well it will work but I'm using a mix of the 16v and 8v pipe work. I'm using the 2 8v heater matrix pipes 1 I believe goes directly to 16v thermostat housing the other is going to a join that'll go to bottom of expansion tank and then other thermostat housing pipe. Also as I'm tight I'm using the 16v thermostat housing and hose which I'm rotating so the hose that would go to the oil cooler/heat exchanger goes to the top right of expansion tank. I've cut the hose down and that'll join up to the top rad hose. Not sure how well this will work but it all offers up pretty well but I'm sure someone else will have tried it or point out where it could cause an issue?

 

Thanks Matt.... your going to be doing a different method from me.

 

I'm using the 16Vmatrix pipes, and "T" ing into the top one with the expansion tank. I've got the T-stat adaptor kit so the rest of the pipes for me should all be the 8V stuff. I've done away with cooler etc.

[Anthony 1,003]

Also as I'm tight I'm using the 16v thermostat housing and hose which I'm rotating so the hose that would go to the oil cooler/heat exchanger goes to the top right of expansion tank. I've cut the hose down and that'll join up to the top rad hose. Not sure how well this will work but it all offers up pretty well but I'm sure someone else will have tried it or point out where it could cause an issue?

I'm pretty sure that won't work and will compromise the cooling system - if I've got my head around it correctly, you'll end up with a situation where hot coolant instead of going through the radiator and to the water pump will end up going through the expansion tank and to the pump, obviously not being adequately cooled on the way.

 

If you really must use the 16v hose instead of buying an adapter, a 1.8 16v hose is the same but without the takeoff AFAIK (ie a straight hose without a T-piece built in).

 

On the expansion tank the bleed to the offside top of the radiator is present as per an 8v, but the one that would have gone to the thermostat bleed on an 8v is typically blanked off on a GTi-6 conversion.

[Anthony 1,003]

I'm using the 16Vmatrix pipes, and "T" ing into the top one with the expansion tank. I've got the T-stat adaptor kit so the rest of the pipes for me should all be the 8V stuff. I've done away with cooler etc.

Don't try reinventing the wheel.

 

There's two or three well documented, tried and tested ways of doing the GTi-6 cooling system. Have a good read of some of the many GTi-6 conversion/project threads on here and follow the way that someone else has done it.

 

In my opinion, bodging a hose that's too big ID on is a receipe for leaks on a '6 engine given that they tend to run on the warm side and at higher pressure than the 8v engine, and it's a needless bodge when there's absolutely no need to do that. A standard 8v hose is fine for one of the heater matrix hoses, and the other you can use the 8v hose T'd into the lower expansion tank pipe.

 

I've always been of the opinion that if you're going to do an engine conversion then spend the time and money to do it properly - the cut corners, bodges and make-dos will come back to bite you.

[welshpug 1,676]

Quite, 1.4 bar the gti6 runs at, the 8v 205 uns at 1 bar, fit the TD cap if you want which is also 1.4 bar (1306 84)

 

Specifically the gti6 stat is 83 degrees, so cooler than the std 8v's 89 degree stat, but they do make a lot more heat, especially that exhaust manifold.

Edited March 13, 2014 by welshpug

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Ah I can still cut the 16v hose shortened and do away with the "bleed off" that goes to top right expansion tank and blank that. I wasn't sure if how I was going to do it would replicate 8v set up but the bleed off is before the thermostat if that makes any sense?

[welshpug 1,676]

Don't think I have used any 16v pipes in a 205, typically standard 205 pipes, which on an MI16 works fine, or a gti6 the BBM kit, nothing wrong with the Silicone hose kit, just get it in black if you don't want a bling bay.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

Ah I can still cut the 16v hose shortened and do away with the "bleed off" that goes to top right expansion tank and blank that. I wasn't sure if how I was going to do it would replicate 8v set up but the bleed off is before the thermostat if that makes any sense?

The best way IMO is to copy the mi16 (I think) set up by putting a hose tail off the t-stat housing back to the top right of the expansion tank. This allows the system to constantly self bleed so to speak. The take offs are available off pug, you just need to carefully drill out the bleed screw hole and press in the take off.

[welshpug 1,676]

ahh yeah, like the thermostat housing on the 406 with the XU7 and 10 engines, has a hole in the side with that T piece and a bleed screw, rather than a bleed screw straight in the top of the housing, 306 has the takeoff on the same engines but blanked off.

 

 

1336K8 WATER OUTLET 8.39 GBP

 

130629 DRAIN SCREW 1.05 GBP

 

133978 DRN SCR GASKET 0.16 GBP

[Anthony 1,003]

The best way IMO is to copy the mi16 (I think) set up by putting a hose tail off the t-stat housing back to the top right of the expansion tank. This allows the system to constantly self bleed so to speak. The take offs are available off pug, you just need to carefully drill out the bleed screw hole and press in the take off.

That's what I did on my GTi-6 and it works a treat

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

That's the one, the pipe comes out at 90 degrees and the bleed screw points upwards put it where you like really but I used the original bleed hole as a pilot for the new un.

Does indeed work a treat

 

Edited March 13, 2014 by allanallen

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Don't think I have used any 16v pipes in a 205, typically standard 205 pipes, which on an MI16 works fine, or a gti6 the BBM kit, nothing wrong with the Silicone hose kit, just get it in black if you don't want a bling bay.

 

Still don't like them in black WP.... to me they look cheap, and i know they aren't.

 

 

If the 16V pipes are too big to fit the 8V matrix, then the 8V pipes must be too small to fit the 16V connection points, unless the pipes have bigger ID's at one end.

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Is that what you mean? I hope so it's a bit late now if not lol

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

That's the one, although mine is the opposite way around, bleed screw on top

[welshpug 1,676]

I dont get why you think silicone pipes are cheap, far from it, however they fit properly, therefore in my eyes there is no substitute, other than keeping the 8v...

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

WP, and I don't get why you think they look good!

The colourful ones are too boy racer, and the black ones are too Patent leather shoes for my taste.

 

Anyway, I went and looked and the 8v pipes have different sized ends, small at matrix end, big at other ends.