Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
ATK

Sources For Properly Refurbished Or New Afm's?

Recommended Posts

ATK

As above, would like to replace the AFM on my '91, anyone got any sources? Dont want to risk an Ebay job in case I end up with a dud.

 

Cheers all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Atp electronics is the only source i know of, seen their sticker on many an afm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
will1991

I've spoken to Atp about getting mine done, although haven't got round to it yet, I think they charge something like £120-£150 from memory.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

It was £150 exchange 7 years ago :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hoodygoodwood

For that sort of money I assume they must retrack the AFM ? There is very little inside one , prise the top black cover off carefully and have a look .

What is the problem with yours ? do the full Haynes multimeter check on it and if you feel confident move the wiper arm to run on a new area of the track .there may be a guide to that on here .

Buy a cheap one off e-bay and work on that as a spare if you do not want to chance it with yours .

I have tested loads of these AFM and the only thing I have had wrong was one with the air temperature sensor broken , the readings across all are very similar and not quite as linear as Haynes would have you believe .

Rough running on these engines is often blamed on the AFM but there are 5 or 6 other ( cheaper ) things to check first .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ATK

For that sort of money I assume they must retrack the AFM ? There is very little inside one , prise the top black cover off carefully and have a look .

What is the problem with yours ? do the full Haynes multimeter check on it and if you feel confident move the wiper arm to run on a new area of the track .there may be a guide to that on here .

Buy a cheap one off e-bay and work on that as a spare if you do not want to chance it with yours .

I have tested loads of these AFM and the only thing I have had wrong was one with the air temperature sensor broken , the readings across all are very similar and not quite as linear as Haynes would have you believe .

Rough running on these engines is often blamed on the AFM but there are 5 or 6 other ( cheaper ) things to check first .

 

 

Cheers buddy, my GTI runs well, but when it's cold, I have to keep the throttle on for 10 seconds or so to allow it to tick over, otherwise it cuts out. When it's warm it does not happen and the idle is really good.

 

What else to you recommend checking etc to try to solve the cutting-out-when-cold? I've got a known good SAD on there at the moment so other than that I'm all ears?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GilesW

Sounds like the coolant a sensor surely?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ATK

Not sure mate, you tell me hah hah!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
p1234

Could be the oil temp sensor under the oil filter.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Could be the oil temp sensor under the oil filter.

Errr, :blink:

 

1. Its on the back, not front.

 

2. It has no connection whatsoever to the engine management.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

8v xu, there wont be one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ATK

Any ideas on what could be causing my cold-start issues, welshpug?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ALEX

Could be a weak spark, check your earths.

 

Even after cleaning mine up on my project it still gave me problems, I ended up fitting a new earthing strap direct to the battery for the ignition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

It'll likely be a setup issue.

 

Warm idle is a doddle to get right - cold idle, particularly first turn of the key, without throttle takes a fair bit of tweeking to do.

 

It's the one thing that most people can't get right and hence the assumption is that that's how 8v's should be.

 

To give you an idea the 1.9 8v that I recently sold started first turn of the key and idled pretty well from cold with no throttle assistance - a touch low/chuggy for a couple of seconds, then around 1100-1200rpm whilst warming up before eventually settling down to a 900-1000rpm idle warm. The only thing that let it down was that the SAD was a little lazy to close in cold weather

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ATK

It'll likely be a setup issue.

 

Warm idle is a doddle to get right - cold idle, particularly first turn of the key, without throttle takes a fair bit of tweeking to do.

 

It's the one thing that most people can't get right and hence the assumption is that that's how 8v's should be.

 

To give you an idea the 1.9 8v that I recently sold started first turn of the key and idled pretty well from cold with no throttle assistance - a touch low/chuggy for a couple of seconds, then around 1100-1200rpm whilst warming up before eventually settling down to a 900-1000rpm idle warm. The only thing that let it down was that the SAD was a little lazy to close in cold weather

 

 

Any guides mate? :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Haynes workshop manual gets you a very long way.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bobbafett

I just bought a brand new one for my PH2 cat 1.9 off eBay 90 quid delivered.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Daviewonder

That's expensive for a Haynes manual.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×