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acox99

What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

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Robbiedundy

Could you let me know how you get on Paul? My speedo is also making a racket :lol:

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welshpug

not my 205's turn quite yet, that's just a pile of parts, a mostly disassembled rolling shell that needs welding :unsure:

 

but the ZX, have been fighting a fuel pump non running issue which has me absolutely baffled, test the pump with Direct volts, works fine, test the volts on the fuel pump wiring, got volts.

 

plug pump in, nothing.    :wacko:

 

 

still not welded or painted but I did recently make new battery cables and clean the starter motor internals and fix a leak on the throttle body fuel rail intermediate tube (just an o-Ring)    it flies over now, just no fuel.

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petert
2 hours ago, welshpug said:

 test the volts on the fuel pump wiring, got volts.

sounds like a high resistance joint somewhere.

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pugdamo
On 6/10/2023 at 10:05 AM, welshpug said:

the ZX, have been fighting a fuel pump non running issue which has me absolutely baffled, test the pump with Direct volts, works fine, test the volts on the fuel pump wiring, got volts.

plug pump in, nothing.    :wacko:

It's current you need to be testing, you can have 12v through 1 strand of wire but not the current to power the components, make up a test light with a H7 bulb and 2 bits of wire and do the same tests you've already done, it will probably glow dimly at the fuel pump connection, if you've already applied a direct feed straight to the pump and used the existing earth and it worked I would say there's a poor connection in the supply so work your way back until the bulb lights up bright. You can test the earth side just so you see it by connecting the bulb to the battery live and then putting the bulb in the fuel pump wiring earth, if it's bright you know it's the supply. Hope that makes sense and helps

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Toddy
On 6/10/2023 at 10:05 AM, welshpug said:

not my 205's turn quite yet, that's just a pile of parts, a mostly disassembled rolling shell that needs welding :unsure:

 

but the ZX, have been fighting a fuel pump non running issue which has me absolutely baffled, test the pump with Direct volts, works fine, test the volts on the fuel pump wiring, got volts.

 

plug pump in, nothing.    :wacko:

 

 

still not welded or painted but I did recently make new battery cables and clean the starter motor internals and fix a leak on the throttle body fuel rail intermediate tube (just an o-Ring)    it flies over now, just no fuel.

Volts with no load can trick you.

 

Have you tried load testing  each individual wire with a 12v bulb connected in series and seeing how brightly it shines to show the available current draw.

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ScoobyJawa
On 6/9/2023 at 8:33 AM, ScoobyJawa said:

Sailed through the MOT with no advisories - whoop whoop whoop!!!!

 

but they did confirm my suspicions there’s a slight coolant leak, which I think is from the lower pipe on the drivers side, had it replaced by another garage, turns out are pretty crap so think they did a rubbish job….

Sure enough the other garage are useless.  Leak from stainless steel lower pipe on drivers side.  Cleaned up and sorted, pressure tested several times throughout the day and all good now :)

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acox99

Having laid it up because of an external head gasket leak, 2 years have passed without it being touched so decided it was time to drag it out the lock up and take it to work where I would crack on with it on lunch breaks & evenings. All came apart lovely, gave it a good clean up. It still comes up well considering it has been 10 years since its refresh. I did a leak down before pulling the head, all readings were very even which was a good sign as the car has clocked 109,000 miles. Once the head was removed the bores looked very good with no lip of bore wear & the original cross hatching is still visible. I’ve had a head done ready to bolt on for a while that’s been flowed, with 3 angle seats, modified back cut valves & increased CR to pep it up a bit being a 1600, I’m retaining the original cam but may swing timing on the dyno. If I can teased 125+bhp I would be very happy. We shall see.  IMG_1512.thumb.jpeg.f8dfae7bed3a0e3361ef21554a8e794e.jpeg


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Tom Fenton

Oil and filter, timing belt and a pair of new check straps for my green 205 while it is out and in use for the month of June. Next job is to re do the carpet/felt on the sides of the boot area.

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barneys66
12 hours ago, Tom Fenton said:

Oil and filter, timing belt and a pair of new check straps for my green 205 while it is out and in use for the month of June. Next job is to re do the carpet/felt on the sides of the boot area.

What brand and where are you buying your timing belt kits from Tom - need to sort mine soon..?

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Tom Fenton
9 hours ago, barneys66 said:

What brand and where are you buying your timing belt kits from Tom - need to sort mine soon..?

I usually use Gates belts, they've always been OK for me, sadly enough I can remember the Gates part no for the 8v-5050XS. Just a belt this time as it has previously had a tensioner and the belt has only done about 2500 miles since I last did it in 2017.

I buy them from my motor factor, but there are probably some on Ebay/Amazon etc.

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boldy205

Had a good day on the car today. Got the modified loom to suit the new Emerald ECU instant. Along with a few dodgy lights and wipers fixed for the MOT. 

Even washed it!

Next Friday its off for mapping, then I can hopefully get a track day in this year!

 

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lapr

Looked at it in disgust.

Maybe I shouldn’t have forgotten about it for so long..!!!! Haha

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boldy205
1 hour ago, lapr said:

Looked at it in disgust.

Maybe I shouldn’t have forgotten about it for so long..!!!! Haha

Easily done!!!

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Robbiedundy

Purchased last week for daily duties and MOT passed today, lovely thing to drive

20230627_202737.thumb.jpg.1bbdedd19506cbb22428773893503821.jpg

 

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James1975

Put new refurbed cylinder head on, new timing belt, runs perfect, and sounds so quiet now,MOT on monday then its time to actually use it rather than working on it

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AlexRS2782

A couple of weeks back, but courtesy of Miles:

 

Reflective tailgate moulding that's been on the car for more than a decade now removed and reverted back to the o.e black slatted version from Pug Museum.

New pair of driving lights fitted along with tidied up wiring, connectors, etc - replacing the old set that were on the car and hadn't worked for well over a decade.

Various areas of minor surface rust treated / painted on the boot floor - aim will be to get some of the bits of seam sealer replaced later in the year and then repaint the boot floor. 

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James1975

Car Passed MOT with No advisories this year, not bad for for 37 years old.

Edited by James1975

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Tom Fenton

You can’t rush a good job, I’ve been mulling over doing this for at least 10 years.

 

1.6 GTI Bendix calipers are alloy bodied and run on a pair of steel slider pins, I’m assuming ground and plated, so a lot harder than the cast alloy body. The body wears over the years and the result is a horrible knock especially when you change direction, so when reversing basically.


So finally bought some tooling for the mill and some glacier bushes and did a thing :D

 

New slider pins and rubber gaiters etc ordered, then I’ll build them up. I’m also considering adding grease nipples to be able to pump some grease in there to properly lubricate it all.

IMG_4238.jpeg

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welshpug

Nice work, there are some availability in the unbranded aftermarket but I'm not sure of the quality on them, George bolted some up to his cri this week and they didnt slide as freely as I think they should, though the bolts went in easy.

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MartyPet

Trying to get my red 205 GTI to run properly and stop hesitating on part-throttle. And making a video about it to try to get help! 

 

 

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Tom Fenton
On 7/8/2023 at 11:59 AM, MartyPet said:

Trying to get my red 205 GTI to run properly and stop hesitating on part-throttle. And making a video about it to try to get help! 

Sorry, but speaking personally I have absolutely no appetite to watch a 9 minute video. Post a description of your symptoms and issues that I can read in 30 seconds and I'd be much more inclined to help.

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MartyPet

Understand. Symptoms are hesitation on part throttle. Have changed the fuel pressure regulator and don't think it is the AFM (as I think it is quite new), so will check for vacuum leaks next. Thought a video might help as a picture (video) paints a thousand words...

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Tom Fenton

OK, a few thoughts. You have changed the regulator but have you checked what fuel pressure you have, a tired fuel pump will not make sufficient pressure no matter what the regulator is doing. Assuming it is a D6B 1.9?, then you should have 3 bar at the fuel rail with the pump running engine not running.

Also go through all the ignition side, are the plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm all recent/good? 

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ScoobyJawa

I was suffering part throttle hesitation.  Fuel pump was changed, still did it, ign amp changed, better but still did it, coil changed and touch wood its not happened since!

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petert

Try adjusting the mixture screw on the side of the AFM?

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