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dobboy

Anyone Recognise This Engine?

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dobboy

Theo, I just thought there would be more chance of their stuff being accurate, but not sure they'd be happy me blowing cigarette smoke across the the engine to see where any leakage is.

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theo-mi16-gr

Smoke? this is your method! :D I am note sure too if they ll be happy for having the test at their place.It is not a matter of accuracy.You just put 100psi air in.You read the percentage loss at the pistol gauge.Up to 10% it is healthy.Some says a 10-15% is acceptable too with a engine with some wear.Check this too

 

http://www.wcengineering.com/articles/leakdown.html

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dobboy

Theo, the smoke will be handy!

 

All I need to do is find the firing order, what direction to turn the engine, how to find TDC, and how to stop the engine wanting to turn.

 

If I set the compressor to say 100psi, and the pistol reads 85psi, then I have a 15% leak?

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309jazzpanda

Turn the engine clockwise, I believe someone posted earlier on the thread how to set tdc with a screwdriver. Put it down the plug hole and turn slowly until the screwdriver moves up once it reaches its highest point you are at tdc. You shouldn't need smoke if it has a leak you will hear the air escaping through either inlet or exhaust manifold, hope this helps.

Also it might be worth checking but I'm quite sure you can screw the compression tester adapter into he plug hole and then screw an airline end (male) into this then you only need to plug the airline directly onto this

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dobboy

Thanks jazz.

 

Any suggestions as to how I can stop the engine wanting to turn when the air goes on?

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Slo

do you do each cylinder seperately or all 4 at once? if seperately you could just fill one up with water and screw in spark plug

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theo-mi16-gr

Hydraulic blocking eh? this makes a sense.It has to be done to the coupled cylinder with the tested one and is at TDC too.

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Slo

obviously you would need to drain it after so best to do that (if you was thinking about it) before an oil change or just drain the oil and leave the sump plug out and a container underneath it.

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dobboy

Slo, i wouldn't dream about using water! lol

 

Would it not just pi55 out anyway on the manifolds etc from the cylinders not being tested..... as their valves would be open?

 

I think my best option is to fix the flywheel with some metal work to some bolt hole fixings for gear the Gbox.

 

Maybe even try wedge some wood etc from flywheel to concrete floor....

 

Hopefully i'll get some "me" time tonight to give it a go.

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dobboy

Hydraulic blocking eh? this makes a sense.It has to be done to the coupled cylinder with the tested one and is at TDC too.

 

 

So, if i have one clinder at TDC, does that mean there is also another at TDC?

 

Can't be can it? or the cylinders would fire in two groups of two?

 

(thanks for the links btw)

Edited by dobboy

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omega

wow what a saga

I understand your concers but you could have fitted it by now and found out!

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theo-mi16-gr

Yes this is what it does mean.The pairs are 1-4 and 2-3.They are always at TDC at the same time.Just have a look at a 4stroke animation at youtube.As you may guess in order to work this with water you ll have to put it in just before reaching at TDC.As the water it can't be compressed,it ll block/stop the movement to the TDC.Of course if you can put the gearbox on,then do it :)

Edited by theo-mi16-gr

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theo-mi16-gr

But if you are just before TDC,putting air in wont push the piston down as it is going up.Maybe this is the simplrest solution with no water at all! Any more opinions??

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welshpug

Sod putting water in it, just get a gearbox and do a comp test, any xud dw or xu be1/3 or 4 box will suffice.

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Slo

Slo, i wouldn't dream about using water! lol

 

Would it not just pi55 out anyway on the manifolds etc from the cylinders not being tested..... as their valves would be open?

 

I think my best option is to fix the flywheel with some metal work to some bolt hole fixings for gear the Gbox.

 

Maybe even try wedge some wood etc from flywheel to concrete floor....

 

Hopefully i'll get some "me" time tonight to give it a go.

 

It would only piss out if your valves leaked thats the way i did mine. My engine was stood in the garage for years and it was fine.

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Alastairh

Sod putting water in it, just get a gearbox and do a comp test, any xud dw or xu be1/3 or 4 box will suffice.

Agreed. No need to mess about, just get on with it.

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dobboy

Agreed. No need to mess about, just get on with it.

You are right, I'm just fearful of starting in case I end up in a complete mess, with a lot of spare bits!

 

And to add to the feckin saga, I collected a second engine today, when I got home I noticed bolts loose on the cam cover. So I took the cover off and thought oh that's interesting. I then opened the cam belt cover and found what can only be described as a black rubber birds nest made by a shredded timing belt. I turned the crank but very little happened. Fortunately it was a complete set up with bits I will use, for £100.

 

If it looks to good to be true...........

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309jazzpanda

did they mention the cambelt was screwed?

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dobboy

Hi jazz, no they never. But the first time I called the engine was £200, then when I went to see it he said the exhaust manifold and downpipe, and loom were spoken for, and the engine was then £100.

 

I recon the guy who bought the loom noticed it, and mentioned to scrappy, or he would probably have bought the lot?

 

Not too fussed though tbh. At least I have another to reference when trying to reassemble the bits i've dismantled off your one lol

 

Yours is beginning to look quite pretty btw, I'll let you see it when I'm done with it before its in the car.

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309jazzpanda

Yeah please, I hope your going to spray that coil cover a different colour

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dobboy

Jazz, I just got a new one yesterday. When I cleaned the back end of the engine it was like brand new, even still had the bar code sticker still on, but i painted it anyway. It's far from being detailed but I'm quite chuffed with what I've achieved with a wire brush considering its my first time. Hopefully some shinny bolts and pipework will add to it to.

 

 

Still to think of a way to clean the throttle body up that doesn't involve blasting, and could do with a decent looking alternator.

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theo-mi16-gr

The best way for throttle body and inlet manifold is ultrasonic.I dont know where you can find but hapilly the shop who had skimmed/serviced my head was using it for cleaning up engine parts.the result is amazing :)

Edited by theo-mi16-gr

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dobboy

Thanks theo. do you know if it has to be stripped down?

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theo-mi16-gr

Surely you have to take out the sensors like pts as it is a wet bath!

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