[Car_Restoration] Scruffy But Original 1.9 Gti - Restoration

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

What do you think of the cars performance? Good fun? Lol

[jackherer 543]

They can fail gradually or suddenly. They do tend to give false low/cold readings and make the engine run rich rather than hot and lean which I imagine is intentional to protect engines.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

What do you think of the cars performance? Good fun? Lol

Yeah it's good. Like I said I'm not keen on the engine mounts but I'm getting used to it. Goes like mad thing to be honest.. Once I get used to it I'll see about the gear ratios. There's a few bits of rattly trim that need sorting out, needs some rear speakers then I can put all the boot trims back in. Not really been that far yet or down any very adventurous roads as I want to give it a going over with a torque wrench again before I give it a proper go. Also might be nicer when it's a bit warmer and I can get some heat into those Yokohamas. Haha. I'm liking the power steering. It's still fairly heavy and not stupidly light like some modern cars but it's massively better than no PAS. I'll get a temp sensor from ECP or pug. Thankyou very much for the offer though. If any more sensors give me grief then I'll rememeber your offer.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

They can fail gradually or suddenly. They do tend to give false low/cold readings and make the engine run rich rather than hot and lean which I imagine is intentional to protect engines.

Thanks pal. Well I'm pretty satisfied I've got an answer. I'll get a new sensor and stick it in and hopefully that'll be the end of it. Cheers for your help.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Yeah, i think for what they cost and the symptoms they will enevitably cause as they deteriorate it's probably best getting a new one.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-106-306-405-406-806-WATER-COOLANT-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-1920-K9-NEW-/280936815317

 

Looks cheap, but not sure if it's a pug one

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Just had a look on Service box... won't be buying a peugeot one!

[welshpug 1,657]

The green ones were Jaeger I think, resistance range is the same as the old blue Bosch item from the 8v and the MI16.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

The green ones were Jaeger I think, resistance range is the same as the old blue Bosch item from the 8v and the MI16.

 

Are you saying I could rob one from my old 8v engine? is the plug the same? ECP have them in stock local to me for £9.00 I think i'll just get one of those..

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

http://www.auto-essentials.co.uk/ecomm/catalog/temperature-sensor-citroen-fiat-peugeot-19200k9-96131470-p-2783.html

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

It's definitely worth getting a diagnostic plug wired up, it's pretty straight forward to do and it'll save you a bit of time and money if you can see the live data that the ecu is seeing.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Is the software free? Hard to get setup?

 

I must admit when I was sorting out the loom the diagnostic socket was the only thing I didn't sort out. I take it it's just two wires from the ECU plug?

 

Is the software the PP2000 I've just found on Google?

Edited February 3, 2015 by Plumbob

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

Sorry haven't read your whole thread but if your running standard management you should be able to wire in a 16pin data link connector which is what I've done with mine.

My snap on solus reads it fine, it helped identify the cps fault with mine when it wouldn't start.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Oh really? I thought the diagnostic socket was only a 2 wire jobbie and wasn't really a full blown OBD port? I'll look into it.

[Anthony 1,003]

There's two types on GTi-6's - early (Phase 1) cars used the 2-pin diagnostic port that you can pull fault codes from with a simple DIY LED circuit, whereas later cars (Phase 2/3) used a regular DL16 OBD diagnostic port that you can read with PP2000 and some other readers like the Snap On that Matt mentions above.

 

Note that the GTi-6 ECU is not fully OBD2 compliant so don't expect some cheaper generic code readers to work or anything that needs OBD2 specific data.

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

99.9% sure mine is a Phase 1 with the 2 wire system. It's a Marelli ECU I know that much.

 

I thought you couldn't use a phase 2/3 in a 205 because it's a multiplex system? (whatever that means)

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

If you wanted to have a look at mine or swap some bits over to try I'm in southsea if that's any good for you?

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

I'm pretty certain it's the coolant temp sensor. I'll swap that first and if I'm still struggling I might just take you up on that offer.

Edited February 3, 2015 by Plumbob

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Think you use 4 wires for ODB socket to work.

 

140, 121, 12v ignition, and 12v switched.

 

(I've got the wires ran in to drivers side dash pocket but not found a socket yet, and wouldn't know what to do with it anyway!)

[S@m 156]

I thought you couldn't use a phase 2/3 in a 205 because it's a multiplex system? (whatever that means)

 

Thats Ph2 Xsara's.

 

They never made a multiplex 306 gti6.

Edited February 3, 2015 by S@m

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Oh! Thankyou.

[Anthony 1,003]

As Sam said - you can use any 306 GTi-6 loom in a 205, just minor wiring/connector differences between them.

 

Phase 1 Xsara VTS's are also usable, but Phase 2 Xsara's (2001 onwards) are multiplex and hence much more difficult to integrate into a non-multiplex car like a 205. There's also other complications using a Ph2 Xsara engine as various bolt on parts are different and need changing for use in a 205, but that's straight forward and easy enough.

 

On my own 205 GTi-6 I'm using a Phase 2 Xsara VTS engine, 306 GTi-6 Phase 2 loom and the ECU and other bits from a Phase 1 Xsara VTS.

[speno 239 2 Cars]

Pb good at building pugs. s*it at pool..

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Says the bloke who's got a pool table in his house.....

 

Nice to see you!

[Plumbob 66 1 Cars]

Right....

 

I got a new CTS and tested it before fitting in some boiling water and the readings were good!

 

 

Fitted it and tested the old one and the readings were bad! Woohoooo!

 

 

Took the car out and its undoubtably better behaved when it warms up but it does still do the occasional splutter at low revs and the hunting at idle....

 

So to recap, I've changed the lambda because it was in a right state and I should probably never have fitted it in the first place. This made the car feel less intense to drive and it also doesn't STINK of petrol which it did before...

 

I've now changed the coolant temp sensor and cracked the bleed screw once the car warmed up on the stat housing to clear any air bubbles...

 

Car drives better, smoother for sure but still has the occasional pop and splutter at low revs...and hunts by +/- 20 rpm or so every twenty seconds or so.

 

Could this be linked to the TTV flywheel? Do these engines need a remap of any kind when they have a light flywheel? I thought they were fit and forget?

 

Also what does everyone else do about engine mounts? I've got a full set of BBM ones and I'm not sure I like them much! I'm thinking of getting an OEM gearbox and top mount and just keeping the fork bushes as "group N" would that have the same effect with regards to stopping the engine swinging too much but still allowing a bit of vibration to me smoothed out?

I know they are expensive but what are the vibratatechnics ones like? Anyone use them?

Edited February 5, 2015 by Plumbob