No Bounce At The Back

[Guest Andy Mack]

Hello,

 

I was trying to find out if its my rear beam that is knackered or if its the suspension thats gone. My car sits a bit lower at the back to the right, measured 13 inches(left) from centre of the wheel to the bottom of the arch and 12 inches(right) when i opened the boot to have a bounce of the back the left side could move down and would bounce back up to its original place kind of, but the right side didnt move at all.

 

Anyone got any suggestions? Suspension? Rear Beam?

 

Cheers

 

Andy Mack

[jonah 1]

Ummm.... the rear beam IS the suspension!

 

Think I see what you're getting at though... whether it's a shock absorber or the trailing arm bearings that have seized. If you're lucky it's a shocker as those are easy to change - but more likely to be the trailing arm bearings as they have a reputation for failing. If that's the case then it's time for a new rear beam.

[Wurzel 16]

Sounds like it could be bad news I'm afraid

 

You will need to undo the top mounting bolt for the shock absorbers and let them swing down. You will be able to compress the shock body (with a bit of force) smoothly but slowly. If you can't move it at all then the shock has siezed and will need replacing (in pairs).

 

If the shock compresses then again try and bounce the rear end with the shock detached. No movement means siezed rear arm shaft (not good) and will need a complete overhaul. If it's this bad though, the rear cross tube itself could very well be beyond repair.

 

Fingers crossed for the siezed shock option though.

 

hth

[Wurzel 16]

Beat me to it

[Guest Andy Mack]

No movement means siezed rear arm shaft (not good) and will need a complete overhaul. If it's this bad though, the rear cross tube itself could very well be beyond repair.

Is that just the same job as reconditioning the rear axel? Or is this something worse?

 

Anyone in Scotland want to fix it for me?? lol

[Wurzel 16]

A full refurb should involve replacement of the trailing arm shafts which are pressed into the arm. It is unlikely that these will be salvagable as the bearing surfaces will almost definately be corroded and pitted.

 

If it is a case of the bearings simply corroding so badly that they have fused to the shaft then the cross tube itself may be salvagable. It could be that the bearing material has disintergrated (normally the case) and jammed everything up so again, the crosstube may be re useable.

 

Refuring won't be that cheap but at least you'll have a beam that will probably outlast the rest of the car if done properly. Look at around £140 ish if you can do the work yourself and get the local garage to press the old shafts out and new shafts in.

 

 

Perfecto pug has dealt with lots fo beams and probably seen them in all states so hopefully he will comment further.

[Guest Andy Mack]

yeah shame Glasgow is so far from Essex! :'(

 

Does anyone know the weight of a rear beam?

 

Or could i find 1 near Perfectopug and get him to refurb it then swap it for me knackered one?

[Wurzel 16]

For the cost of P&P, refurbing etc, you would be better off going to SSP engineering who sell refurbished items.

 

There are mixed reviews on these guys but nothing too damning, just the way the ride height is set.

 

I got a rear beam sent down from Inverness and it apparantly cost the guy £80

 

They're heavy items unfortunately. Maybe someone else could find a cheaper alternative.

 

Not sure how good you are with spanner bending and hammering? You could tackle the job yourself and get a garage to help you out with the bearings and shafts. It does seem quite daunting at first until you've done one and all the guides out there fall into place. I've done a few now with no problems.

[perfecto pug 0]

your rear beam does sound shafted

 

they normally seize up completly when the bearings have started to disintergrate then the car is left for a while, in this time the shaft corrodes to the crossmember and you will have a task getting the two apart.

 

i am sure that the crossmember will be 99% unsalvageable, this is a real pain as you have to source another (they are thin on the ground for gti ones - which are thicker in the middle)

 

to be honest i am trying to not do any more rear axels for a short while, as i am too busy with other commitments, but i might be persuaded to do another if its urgent.

[Wurzel 16]

Well, now perhaps you have a choice

 

WWW.SSPENGINEERING.CO.UK

[Guest Andy Mack]

I need to rear beam operational by febuary because thats when the MOT is up. At the moment i will just $h!t myself every time in the wet going round corners wondering if its going to suddenly go sideways.

 

So could you tell me everything i need to get to do the fix it? I dont mind buying bits that turn out to be ok, its better that than finding i dont have some bits then waiting a week to get them from PEugeot.

 

Also whats the beef on ssp engineering? I heard someone i think say that they dont use the right torsion bars so its a softer ride. what have you heard? Is it possible to buy one from them and then get it sorted so its the way it should be?

 

If you were me and didnt really want to do it myself what would you choose?

 

option 1 - ssp engineering

 

option 2 - butter up Perfect Pug and see if he will help me out(possible involve sending the rear beam by post or something)

 

option 3 - do it myself

 

So what would you do? Answers on a post cart to...........lol

[Guest Andy Mack]

ok i just have done a search for ssp engineering and it looks like the only thing that they do wrong is the ride height. This must be pretty easy to adjust with the rear beam reconditioned and off the car? Acording to Perfecto Pug all you do is measure the distance between the shock absorber bolts.

 

have i got that right?

 

Think i will go with them, just need to check my bank account to see if i got the mulla to pay for it.

[RichE 0]

They dont do it wrong at all.

 

They set it to the standard height, which at first seems a bit high (ESPECIALLY if your car has been lowered) but then after a week or so it settles down.

 

Simple as.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Haven't SSp also sold people beams that they said are for a GTi but when they were looked at they had the wrong thickness arb or none what so ever?

 

Graham.

[RichE 0]

Haven't SSp also sold people beams that they said are for a GTi but when they were looked at they had the wrong thickness arb or none what so ever?

 

Graham.

Not to my knowledge.

[Wurzel 16]

I'm sure that if you were to phone and discuss exactly what you're after (torsion bars, anti roll bar etc) then there won't be a problem.

 

Oracle is right about the ride height though, it can seem very high for a car like this, that is why people complain. They say the car had standard ride height before beam replacement but I'm not sure.

 

With age I reckon they'll sag a little anyway.

[Guest smckeown]

yes ive read that SSP fit incorrect thickness ARB or Torsion bars, thats what put me off them.

[Guest Andy Mack]

I need one for a 1.9 GTI so it would need to be one with the rear discs. Surley that would stop me buying one with the wrong anti-roll bars?

 

Do you actually take the anti roll bars out when recon'ing it?

 

Can anyone give me a list of everything that would need replaced if i was doing it myself? I mean everything, everything and anything that might be broken, might break, or whatever. I have read the "how to recon a rear beam" thing on the actual website but I could really do with a list that i could just take and get them to get me everything.

 

Oh and anyone got a spare rear axel that they can sell me somewhere in scotland????

[Wurzel 16]

Yes you do need to remove the ARB when refurbing the rear beam. I thought you'd read the 'how to ' guides. You will have to get a garage to press out the trailing arm shafts if they are knackered (more than likely) and get the inner bearings removed/replaced if you don't have the correct tubing/tools to do the job.

 

Here is my list from Pug parts CD. I would also suggest finding someone who sells nuts and bolts as they will be lots cheaper than Pug

 

 

 

 

Pug Part NoDescription Qty Reqd Pug Price per unit inc VAT

 

5131 74 Flexible Joint 2 Sets £7.83

5144 20 Capscrew 2 £2.48

5146 06 Support Washer 4 £0.15

5154 08 Suspension Arm Seal 2 £3.69

5154 09 Cup 2 £0.75

5224 21 Fixing Screw 2 £3.42

6939 51 Self Locking Nut (Diam 14x150-16,6-22) 2 £1.06

5224 22 Bolt? 2 £2.21

6939 71 Self Locking Nut (Diam 12x125-15-8) 2 £0.92

6948 92 Plain Washer 4 £0.29

6918 54 Capscrew 4 £1.40

5173 14 Washer-nut 8 £0.45

5173 13 Self Locking Nut 4 £0.60

5179 10 Crossmember Seal 2 £4.98

5179 07 Plug 2 £1.66

5153 12 Suspension Bar Washer 2 £0.55

5153 11 Crossmember Screw 2 £0.51

5153 10 Suspension Bar Stud 2 £2.12

6932 38 Nut 2 £0.51

5132 49 Ext Bearing 2 £7.57 £5.58 GSF Price

5131 45 Int Bearing 2 £7.27 £5.23 GSF Price

5176 17 Arm Shaft 2 £55.97 £41.13 GSF Price

5154 05 Plug 2 £1.06

 

 

 

Don't forget wire brushes, lump hammer, a good sturdy drift as well as the normal spanners and socket sets.

 

 

Prices above are inclusive of VAT but are each. You may be entitled to discount if you are in the right clubs.

hth

Edited November 14, 2003 by Big Nick

[Guest Andy Mack]

So that is everything i ever could need to refurb the beam myself?

 

I did read the refurb guide but it was a while ago, i just knew there wasnt a list of bits you need.

 

Edit - going to read the refurb again.

 

Edit 2 - I'm not in any clubs so i wouldnt get any discount. What clubs do discounts and stuff?

 

Edit 3 - Looks bloody complicated!!! If i just get a new one from SSP do i just bolt it on? or are there other things i might need to change to make it better? It says on the guide "While mine was off I replaced all the bushes / mounting rubbers too as they were a little warn out. This needs a vice, hammer, drill, chisel etc, as they are a pain to get out but worth doing. The square ones under the car (rear mounts) are easy - bolt on and off." Were these in the list of bits to get for it? Or do i not need to bother with any of this because their on the axle?

Edited November 14, 2003 by Andy Mack

[Wurzel 16]

That quote seems familiar?

 

There are two sets of mounts, the front ones which are on the cross beam itself and then the square rear mounts (the ones most referred to in posts). The cross beam ones are the flexible joints listed. Rear mounts are less than a tenner for standard ones or around £30 for Grp N hard rubber ones.

 

Can't say what you get from SSP but there are a few members who have bought beams from them so they may be able to comment.

 

What ever you get from SSP, it will be simple nuts and bolts, even if you have to transfer the mounting flanges across (the bits that go from the rear square mounts to the beam). Only four bolts.

 

 

 

The flexible joints are items 3a.

[Guest Andy Mack]

Ok i have found a rear beam in a breakers. I think its in Birmingham(0161? is that Birmingham?) So do you think it would be better if i buy it and rebuild it in my own time then put it on the car? Or should i just get one from SSP Engineering?

[Wurzel 16]

That is something only you can decide really. Having the spare beam and will allow you to rebuild it in the mean time.

 

To be honest though, I reckon you need to get your current beam sorted as soon as possible. I wouldn't really drive it in its current condition as it is quite dangerous.

 

I'm not sure if SSP work on an exchange basis? You will need to ask. If they don't then you can buy a recon beam from them, fit it to your car and then have the time to rebuild your old one. Once refurbed you could quite easily sell it on for £150 or there abouts getting some of your money back.

 

If you need the car on the road with minimum fuss then the safe bet is to buy from SSP.

 

If you can do without it for a week or so then refurb your old beam but you need to be fairly confident mechanically and have the means to separate the trailing arms (Hook one end over a curb and hit the opposite trailing arm) if the torsion bars are siezed.

 

If I were closer I'd give you a hand.

[Guest Andy Mack]

So when i change the rear axle should i stick these on?

 

205 -7204 Grp-N - Hard rubber axle rear mountings (pair)

http://www.cartv.org/Merchant2/graphics/00...001/mn_7204.jpg

 

Anything else i should change while im at it? I'm going to go for the SSP option i think.

[robjacuk 0]

I bit the bullet nearly 2 years back and drove down to SSP from London. They did the swap while I waited (around 3-4 hours) + some other work. I got home late that night. The car's been fine since.

 

They did offer an exchange service via a national carrier, maybe worth asking if it's still on offer if the distance is too far.

 

Rob