Engine Bay Rust

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Nearly finished the strip-out, the next job will be to sort the rust in the engine bay. As I'm new to this, would anyone provide advice on the process (mechanical/chemical) and products to use.

 

The rust does not seem bad and it looks mainly like surface rust, but I guess until I start stripping (the car that is) I wont know.

 

 

[Arwing 3 1 Cars]

I rubbed the area down with metal sanding paper before cleaning with car shampoo, water and a sponge. Once dry, i added a coat of KURUST to the affected areas (wait about 3hrs until blue/black) before applying about 3 coats of Hammerite paint. Not a professional finish but not bad either. Gives the smae effect of stonechip paint.

 

Before

KURUST treated driver side

Hammerite treated driver side

 

KURUST treated passenger side

Hammerite treated passenger side

Edited October 28, 2013 by Arwing

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

If I wanted completely remove the rust is the best method a wire wheel attached to a drill, (or is there a less brutal method) how do I get to the seamed areas?

[GLPoomobile 958]

Wire wheels can work (can be hard work too!) but the problem is that you are actually polishing the rust in to the metal to some extent. You won't get rid of it all. Chemical treatment is needed. Kurust is a reasonable, well known product (I'm not a fan, but others swear by it). Do some Googling and you'll turn up other products. Bilt Hamber do some good stuff, like their Deox C gel. I've used their Deox C solution, so I can confirm it works, but not yet tried the gel (I've had some for prob getting on 5 years and never got round to trying it yet!).

[DamirGTI 341]

Grind off affected areas as much as you can , then use rust remover to microscopic "eat"/lift out the remaining rust particles (anything phosphoric acid based works well , liquid or jelly as you wish) once the product has done it's job rinse with water and baking soda mixture to neutralize acid remains from the surface , then apply rust converter and finally few coats of paint on top .

 

With rust removers and converters , work as per instructions for particular product .

 

D

[Liquid_106 97 1 Cars]

Knotted wheel and angle grinder would be the best / quickest method and then a drill and wire wheel to get into the confined areas. After that, apply a decent rust converter / inhibitor like Hydrate-80 as this will cover any small patches of rust you missed with the wheel. Then prime with a good quality zinc undercoat and then final top coat. Don't leave in primer for too long as it's porous and will allow moisture through to the metal and the whole process to start again.

Edited October 29, 2013 by Liquid_106

[DamirGTI 341]

Applying primer over the rust converter really isn't needed ! in fact , the black layer (polymeric coating) left after it's chemical reaction is really good "bite"/primer for painting straight on top .

If you still want to use primer as an sealer over the rust converter , for most rust converters oil or epoxy based primer is recommended - thus , read the instruction for the particular product .

 

D